My first 4wd was a 45 with the back cut off at the rear shackles, and a custom tray, 35's, bronco power steering, 383, custom shocks, body lift, modified column and seats, 4wdisc brakes, twin sonrkels, and a trimmed off bezel, and that was over 20 years ago.
I used 60 springs, with larger...
Hey Mr W5,
gonna cut a section out of the 80 floor to make the trans tunnel in the 45?
And will the 45 have elec mirrors, windows, demister etc etc out of the 80? [like working form the 80 swithces, not transplanted windows from the 80.....]
My double beadlocks add less than 1kg [2.2lb] to each rim.
Am speaking with a US dist currently, to supply you guys, and they are waaaaaaaaaaaay improvement over the old Tyreloc POS.
To tell if your arms are adjusted correctly, your front and rear drive flanges on the drive shafts should be as close to parrallel as possible, note, not vertical, or horizontal, but PARALLEL!
Yes,
proper shcoks which control the movement, with upgraded springs [T bars] to help with bigger unsprung weight [wheel tyre combo] and any additional weight added would go a long way to stopping the bump stops being hit hard enough to crack the arms on compression.
Well, its not that I dont know how to fix it, its just explaining to them how much it will cost to solve the problem, and what happens if they dont, and the wheel becomes detached.
Though the A arms crack across to the torsion bar mount hole, the torsion bar isnt the cause, but banging the car on the bumpstops is what causes the cracks.
The t bar mounts in centreline of the pivot bush for the A arm, which is where the most force is exerted when levered over the arm...
Its not so much overstrssing the T bar, ut creating an unbalanced vehcile with different spring rates that is the bigger issue.
When we had 80's everyone just got new front springs for a lift, which were matced to the rear to a degree, and a T bar is just a coil spring which isnt round [works...
Is a story on it as the 140 series in one of our mags last month, looking similar to the blue ute they have previewed before in the front, and a 220kw v6 with 600nm and twin turbos, in diesel, as wella s vvti V8 4.7 according to the mag.
I have some ideas for the 100 IFS front running a coil over, and getting rid of the T bars all together, but I havent had a customer request us to fix one "properly" as yet, to get to work on it.
We stitch welded it, so if a weld cracks, it wont crack right around the bracket.
Its also, plug welded through the bolt holes, and welded internally on the join of the 2 parts of the A arm.
We dont experience this in Aus at all, I must say, but knowing how rubber to steel seals grease when its clean, compared to once the lube gets under it, and keeps lubing it, so it keeps leaking, my way of fixing it would be to remove the clamp, clean the area wioth a fast drying solvent, and re...
I have been looking at going to a Cooper ATR in a 20" 295/55/20 which is same height as a 285/75/16 [33] from memory, and fit to a 20x9 rim.
And keep MTR with secondairs on my steel rims for offroad
Firstly,
Doron, the arms break because they hit on the bumpstops and leverage is over the point where they break, not because of the torsion bars themselves.
the first 6 pics here show us fixing a set of arms which you couldnt see where cracked until out and wire brushed.
And no one has...
Bilstien is the shock i prefer, i use the 6 series [yellow] ones for what we do here,
And no, no aftermarket arms here...... yet ;)
But have had some horror stories of frequent replacement of uniballs compared to OE ball joint, which doesnt help, but Kreg at DR seems to have a different...
Julien from All American Imports is on the LCOOL int list.
I have been playing witht he coil over for 100 for some time, and it wont improve travel, as the ball joints are the limiting factor, but they do allow you to toss the torsion bars.