For Sale: $120 for both right and left. Brand new OEM Toyota front door weatherstrips for '75 - '84 F40. Part #s: 67862-90300 and 67861-90300.
Sold the FJ-40 and never installed the new weatherstrips. Will accept PAYPAL. Cash works if you are in the Charleston, SC area.
Keith Ramsdell
I can't say specifically. I've always tried to keep OEM parts on my FJ as they are parts made by Toyota and generally are better quality than aftermarket parts. Using OEM, you know that what you get will fit and work properly.
For Sale: Two (right and left) turn signals for a 1/75-7/80 Toyota FJ40. Brand new, never installed, OEM turn signals. $175 for the pair. (Normally $150 each from Toyota.)
No - Keep it the same
I vote no on any name change
I'm sorry if I offend any FJC or 4Runner owners, but this has been primarily a Land Cruiser association and I prefer to keep it that way. What's next, opening it up to Heeps?
Just my $.02
Keith Ramsdell aka MtPCruiser
Run a few searches through the classified section of this site and you can find lots of info on what things cost. sor.com and coolcruisers.com can also serve as a good reference on what the retail costs are. In general, you just need to be patient and look around. Most everything you want can...
I've always replaced with OEM. I figure, if the original was good enough to last 25 years, than it was probably the right design. The best reason I've come across to go with an electric pump is when you're going to be wheeling at extreme angles. Good Luck.
It might be worth a call to David at Urban Landcruisers. He mentioned that he's used a machine shop in Florida for his engine work. I don't know where the shop is, but you might get lucky.
I agree that going with a 2F is the better option than rebuilding a F. You might also want to take a...
It would help to know where you're located.
I just had a 2F rebuilt at Urban Landcruisers in Atlanta. They did all the work (pull engine, rebuild, replace) since I don't currently have a garage to work in. Not cheap, but quality work.
Here are a few tips I've put together over the years.
1. Determine how much you want to spend before you start to look, then stick to your budget.
2. Don't snatch up the first cruiser you find. Make sure it is exactly what you want.
3. Negotiate a good price. Everyone thinks that...
Trailer it.
Can you flat tow it? Sure, but there is a significant risk to doing so. A Durango just doesn't have the mass to counter the momentum of the FJ40 if it gets squirrely.
Is the risk worth the cost? That is a choice that you need to make.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
I believe the reason they don't want to use aluminum is to prevent the galvanic reaction between the aluminum panels and the steel body. That reaction results in increased potential for corrosion under the aluminum panels.
If you're considering bolting on additional armor for the rear...
If your rig is bone stock, then stay with the original grey color. Otherwise, go with what you like. As long as the seats look good, it's not going to impact the price significantly.
When I'm ready to recover mine, I'm going with Shane's (Aatlas1x) covers. They're significantly more...
x2 - Assuming the replacement engine is complete, swap everything, make sure it runs, then start modifying things. That way you have a good baseline for troubleshooting. If you make modifications during the swap, then you're just asking for trouble (if everything doesn't go just right.)...
I concur with coolerman - look at the part number on the JTO site and you'll see that it matches up with the part numbers from painless wiring (PWP10107).
Before buying, be sure to do a search on ih8mud and look at the threads concerning "painless" wiring harness. They are anything but painless.
The apron (that body panel above the fender) is easily replaced without any problems. I don't think they're still available from Toyota, but you can probably get one easily here on 'mud. Just look for someone parting out a FJ40.
With all the obvious body damage, rust, etc. the engine and...