My 2000 LC developed a random high pitch screech while driving. I took it to the dealer and they said there was a service bulleting for it. This was back in 2004. Their solution was to snip a redundant feedback wire in the alarm system. They said they had performed a few of them at the time...
Good reminder. I found my original 2000 crumbling tee's by accident last Fall when doing another timing belt job, 241k miles. Same experience as yours, one of the tee's crumbled completely. I replaced them with metal tee's. The new tee's were slightly smaller and I had trouble getting the...
My sunroof was stuck fully forward with the rear tilted up. The entire glass panel comes out by removing 4 nuts from inside once the upholstered panel is pried off. I had to remove the link arms to get it to lay flat. I put spacer blocks to get the sunroof to line up flush with the roof...
Our 2000 LC is a great tow vehicle, that's largely why we bought it. We tow a 4400 lb boat with a single axle trailer without trailer brakes and have never had any issues. I do notice it tries to downshift going up hill with cruise control on. I rarely take it out of overdrive when towing...
You can be fairly certain it's the starter contacts. It is a systemic problem with most Denso starters in a wide variety of Toyota models. My 2000 started doing that at 70k miles. I replaced them slightly before 100k miles and it still starts fine at 240k miles. The starter itself most...
I had the exact failure on my 2000 right rear door. I figure the stop iced up. I cut a section from an old Highlander door and welded it in. Be VERY careful when rolling down the rear window until you get it sorted. My window shattered after the repair so I replaced the factory stop with a...
We bought our 2000 off-lease with 31k miles. At around 50k miles I started doing 4.5 quart ATF drain and fills with Amsoil ATF and subsequently every 2nd or 3rd engine oil change up til about 175k miles, then slacked off. I just did another 4.5 quart drain & fill 2 weeks ago at 241k miles...
Or at least do a partial disassembly/inspection. Here's the OEM water pump I bought from the dealer last time. 140k miles on it, had been leaking for awhile with no signs elsewhere.
The thermostat housing groove is perfect for an o-ring, 2-034, stays put in the groove with a little goop...
Edit: not quite perfect. The hose on the stem was a little loose, had to put a screw-type hose clamp on it. The larger hoses fit close enough with the Toyota clamps. The new Four Seasons steel Tee is 5/8x1/2x5/8" vs the Toyota plastic Tee 17x14x17mm.
I noticed by accident some coolant deposits on one of the tee's so I ordered the metal ones when doing the timing belt. One of them totally disintegrated when removing it. I suppose I should do more routine inspections.
I replaced the timing belt in 2006 at 100k miles with all new OEM parts, belt, water pump, idlers, from the local Toyota dealer ("Cruiser Dan"). Now at 240k miles I figured it's time again. Took it apart yesterday and lots of dried coolant crud had leaked behind the corner of the water pump...
Mine locked up with the rear tilted up about 10 years ago. The glass comes out by prying the inside side trim pieces and exposes 4 hex nuts. I removed the slide/tilt brackets, put the glass back in flush with the roof and permanently sealed it with RTV.
I just did mine 2 weeks ago. If you plug that part number into "toyotapartsdeal.com" it shows it compatible with 98-07 LC's. It does not distinquish between self-leveling vs. conventional if that matters
I bought our 2000 in 2004 at 31k as a "Certified Pre-Owned" lease return from LA. Did the timing belt at 106k in 2009 +/-. The old one looked brand new. Replaced the belt with a Cont-Tech, new OEM idlers and water pump. Time to do it again now that it has 225k. Still lucky with the original...
I just did the drivers door last week. Plastic clip was intact, just lost the bond. I scuffed the glass with 180 grit sandpaper, cleaned the glass n plastic clip with acetone, and used J B Weld. Let it sit overnite. Longer cure time epoxies are stronger than quick cure formulae.
I finally received and installed another used rear window. I discarded the original stop and replaced it with a nylon strap with a custom machined dogbone to mount to the door.
I just replaced the front & rears last week at 225k miles. I bought OEM Toyota shocks from an on-line dealer, 4 new shocks plus shipping was about $200. Fronts are easy, 10 minutes per side. The top nut can be reached from the outside above the tire with a 7/8" or 22mm ratcheting box end...
New LC door checks are approx $150 dealer list from Toyota, less on Ebay. I'm not going to tempt fate and will go with a nylon strap instead. Something else is going on with my door. I suspect the mounting spot on mine could be canted and allows the arm to swing toward the glass. I made a...