I have 33' tires on my 80 series and a ARB bumper. It'd be a reach to get 300 miles with little reserve left (14 mpg x 22 gal). Lots of people wanted the AUS aux tank...
IMO, every Toyota I’ve ever owned has too small a fuel tank. Cars and trucks. And when they squeeze more mileage out of a new model, they shrink the fuel tank to ensure you don’t get satisfactory range.
Check the fluid? Yes. Change the fluid? It depends on if it needs it. You can jack/do one side at a time and not lose any fluid if you want to keep it.
If the vehicle has an unknown history, it's probably a good idea to check the knuckle with a centering tool once. Once you know the shims...
I’ve been using Coolerman’s flasher kit for several years w good results. I’d use his over OEM.
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/wiringmainframe.htm Then go to his flasher/relay page. Works w/ LEDs. YRMV…
There should be a ground wire that goes from a starter bolt to the frame. Since that bolt goes into the block, that is your “block to frame” ground wire. It functions well in that role assuming the connections are clean. No need I’ve heard of to reinvent that wheel.
The problem a few people...
Got a good ground strap from the starter to the fame? Those tend to disappear over the years.
Besides that and the "battery-frame" ground wire, I’ve added a third ground wire "battery-alternator bracket" where the alternator bracket meets the engine block on Coolerman’s recommendation...
I just use blue RTV on both sides of the paper gasket, then let it set on the studs for 5 minutes. After that it’s normal assembly. Besides eliminating leaks from that gasket, it reduces gasket scraping to almost zero on disassembly since the RTV sets up on the paper, not the metal. No more...
I’ve got a mini starter. BW wire and power cable from the battery are the only wires. You can see coming from the same part of the loom are a cut B and BY wire. Those wires were cut when I bought the truck. I added the mini starter.
I have a BY wire that goes to the + coil, but it comes...
Here’s a colorized diagram stolen from here.
Let me know if that doesn’t help you. I can take a photo of my wiring if need be. I‘ve got a Coolerman trailer harness and adapter to run a 1987 alternator and dizzy setup, so it won’t be exact.
If the rear lights are also totally dead (brake, running lights) make sure the connector they share is securely attached to the rear of the fuse box. This connector also affects the interior light and cigarette lighter (which are easier to check).
On FJ40s, the fuel cap generally only vents in to allow air to fill the tank as fuel is depleted.
However, as we drive vapor pressure builds in the tank due to warm fuel being returned via the fuel return line, fuel sloshing around, etc. This vapor exits the fuel tank through the EVAP system...
Might try Coolerman’s LED flasher. Helps with any ground issues and works with incandescent bulbs. No idea if you can use it on a 24v. Maybe shoot him an email. Go to link below then click Flasher Relay/Adapters.
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/wiringmainframe.htm
OEM fuel caps generally only vent into the tank. On the NA trucks when you open the fuel cap, there should be a "slight" pressure release after driving if everything is setup stock. Think a couple psi. Not sure about your situation.
If you know the build option of your truck, you can try the...