Hamom for father of soldier killed in Iraq

[smkymntn]

Steve is trying to get a group together to go down and help a father rebuild his 40. It is for his grandson. Steve post up details and perhaps you can expound on the circumstances.

[eventhough]

OK guys, here is some info for ya.

IF ANYONE WANTS TO HELP AFTER YOU READ THIS YOU CAN CONTACT ME DIRECTLY @ STEVE@TWOSPRINGSLLC.COM AND I WILL GET RIGHT BACK WITH YOU.

WE ARE HAVING GREAT RESPONSE FROM MUD MEMBERS. I SHOULD HAVE MUCH MORE INFORMATION BY THE END OF NOVEMBER ABOUT EVENT SPECIFICS AND WHAT PARTS WE NEED.

I've been talking with James (screen name JamesR on MUD) for quite awhile now. He is trying to fix up a 40 but there is a little more to it than that.

James' son, Josh, was killed in Iraq on Sept 22, 2007 by an IED. James has decided that he wants to fix up Josh's 40 for Josh's son Jackson. Jackson was born only one day before Josh was killed.

James has a blog at http://www.joshandjacksonfj40.blogspot.com/ but it hasn't been updated in awhile. There are a few pics of the 40 there also. Also look at
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...hello-all.html
for info on the 40.

James has done a good bit of work on the 40 in the past two years and has learned a good bit along the way. Check out
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...cksons-fj.html
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...t-rebuild.html
for some info on what has been done to the 40.

Currently the 40 blows smoke and James thinks its blue. Compression warm and dry is OK - all at 120 or above but one as high as 150 so there is a decent gap between high and low. Carb isn't working correctly either. James has a whole battery of other tests to run that I've suggested. UPDATE - We have a 2F long block donated by Spence aka 'impossible.' Thanks Spence! ACC Toyota is going to take a look at the 2F and see what it needs before we drop it into the 40.

I'm headed down to check out the 40 on Nov 29th and see what all it needs. If anyone wants to come along please email me at Steve@TwoSpringsLLC.com.

I would also like to get some of the Georgia Cruisers involved if y'all are interested.

What does everyone think?

I would really, really like to roll down to Athens with a strong contingent of UC'rs so we can show our support. It would mean a lot to me and I know it would to James too.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

UPDATED INFO

WHEN - MLK weekend, January 16th, 17th and 18th with a scouting run on Sunday, November 29th

WHERE - Watkinsville, GA

WHAT - Build a 40 for a fallen soldier

WHY - Because it is the right thing to do

LODGING - Some camping is available at the build site, nearby hotel info will be added soon

T-SHIRTS - Are currently being designed. All profits will go directly to the build

SPONSORS NEEDED - Please let us know of anyone who would like to be a sponsor. A few have already stepped forward and we have others in the works.

CURRENT SPONSORS
Trollhole's Cruisers
ACC Toyota (www.ACCToyota.com)
Upstate Cruisers (www.UpstateCruisers.net)
Two Springs Consulting (www.TwoSpringsLLC.com)
Olde North State Cruisers

DONATIONS - We need them!!!!! As of 11-1-09 we have about $300 in donations already pledged.

Upstate Cruisers is getting a new webmaster on board currently, so for the time being I'll accept the donations for the 40 build. The email is "steve.springs@paypal.com" 100% OF EACH DONATION WILL TO DIRECTLY TO THE BUILD. Please make a note that the money sent is for the 40 build - but - I rarely make any transactions using my PayPal site so I will assume that anything coming in is for the 40 build.

THE BUILD - More info on this to come soon as planning progresses.

The build is going to be nuts. I plan on having about half a dozen different stations that can handle 3-6 people each. Each station will be devoted to one area or set of tasks. This way we can try not to be on top of each other and we can get much more done.

I've listed out some names below. A lot of the names below are put into a category to help me keep things straight. Just because your name is down doesn't mean you are the only person working on something - it often means you are getting an answer to a small question to me and I don't want to forget.

General logistics, organization, special projects, etc - me (Steve Springs), David Davis, Alex Garcia

Sponsorship, vendors, donations - Carp

Food - Bob Adamson

Infrastructure (canopies, tools, power, compressors, tables, etc)

And here is what I am thinking about for stations at the build. Some of these stations might not last long (exhaust) while others (engine, body) will be going the entire weekend.

Upholstery - David Davis

Engine - (will probably need to be broken down a bit more by this group for fuel/carb, short block, etc)

Underbody (frame and axles repaint) - David Davis

Axles (rebuild if needed)

Top removal and various fixes as needed

Drive train / Wheels and Tires

Fluids

General - Heather, smkymntn, me

Suspension - Rick Carswell

Exhaust -

Steering -

Brakes

Electrical

WHAT WE CURRENTLY NEED
Monetary donations
Parts donations
People
Publicity
Sponsors
Work tables
Work chairs
Canopies
Lights
Tools
Floor jacks
Jack stands
POR15, RustBullet, or Rustoleum paint for frame
Rear tailgate handle for 1972 FJ40
Much more to come...

PARTS ALREADY DONATED OR SOURCED
Brand new carb and dizzy thanks to Trollhole Cruisers and Two Springs Consulting
Much more hopefully to come...

WHO I NEED TO GET BACK TO ABOUT PARTS, ETC
apeterson - general list of parts needed
me
landcrusher909 - carb rebuild
ACC - special tools needed for build, if 2F needs anything
impossible - 2F
jsaltlick - parts needed
raYGunn - PayPal

[eventhough]

Thread updated - bumpidy bump bump

[boombapslappy]

Are there any places to camp at or near James' place? If so, we could make it the whole weekend. Maybe MLK? Have some shirts made and give the proceeds to Jackson's 40 fund? Just brainstorming.

[Carp]

If the dates align, I'd love to go help. I could also help with a shirt design, unless someone else would like to try.

[eventhough]

Originally Posted by boombapslappy

Are there any places to camp at or near James' place? If so, we could make it the whole weekend. Maybe MLK? Have some shirts made and give the proceeds to Jackson's 40 fund? Just brainstorming.

Awesome idea. I'm all for setting a date a few months out. That would hopefully allow us to get several guys to go, also would allow us to troubleshoot James' problems and have our ducks in a row once we get there.

Originally Posted by Carp

If the dates align, I'd love to go help. I could also help with a shirt design, unless someone else would like to try.

Thank you very much Carp. I would love for you to do a t-shirt!

[smkymntn]

Camping would work- I am not much of a wrench but I could help anyway.

[eventhough]

I've posted up in GA, NC, LCSC and TN forums and have some interest there also.

I've PM'd JamesR to check on camping. I'm sure we can find somewhere to pitch a few tents.

I really like the idea of waiting to MLK day.

[Carp]

Originally Posted by eventhough

Thank you very much Carp. I would love for you to do a t-shirt!

Will do, I've got an idea or 2 floating already.

Originally Posted by eventhough

I really like the idea of waiting to MLK day.

I think that should work for me. Feb would be out as that's when the little boy's due.

[eventhough]

JamesR confirmed that MLK weekend works for him and his family.

He has room for people to camp in his back yard by a creek and there is a fire ring.

He also has offered up some space inside for people to stay.

UC BOD - can we confirm MLK weekend as a go for JamesR before I post this elsewhere?

[$out]

Sounds good to me also. I'm w/ Adam i'm not much of a mech. but I do have firewood...

[eventhough]

Originally Posted by $out

Sounds good to me also. I'm w/ Adam i'm not much of a mech. but I do have firewood...

Thanks Tommy - I appreciate the help. I've seen your firewood hauling capabilities before too...you don't play around!

[Turkeypen]

Since MLK is a federal holiday, this government man is in! I read through James' thread and it appears that the carb is a central problem, the radiator looks like it may need some help (see cardboard), and that red top and black bib offends me deeply . . .

To start, how about we raise some funds and buy one of Marshal's carbs and dizzy or another that fits (need some details as to what year vehicle he has as well as an assessment of what parts are needed). I'll start with a pledge of $50 clams.

Perhaps we could get the guys from Trucks! involved since this is just down the road from their HQ in Tennessee. Sure would be nice to really make a difference with the end product being a restored FJ at the end of the weekend.

This would entail:

1. Recon -- going down in advance and getting a "scope of the work"
2. Raising funds -- enlist Woody for some sort of banner promotion to get Mud guys involved with small cash donations.
3. Getting support from local vendors such as ACC and some paint shops.
4. Buying all parts in advance.
5. Organizing the assault on the vehicle, such as getting there Friday night, attack the mechanicals and do body prep on Saturday, roll it into a paint bay Sunday, dedicate it on Monday.

Ok, I'm done.

-David D.

[eventhough]

David - you rock!

Great ideas.

My company, Two Springs, will match your $50, so that's $100 already raised.

I think Marshall is currently out of dizzys but I have a trail spare that worked fine when I took it off my '76 2F if it will work. I think Marshall has some carbs.

I've also committed any parts I have.

I was planning on doing some recon but really could use a hand from someone who knows 40s.

I won't be able to make it until late Sat evening as I have to work at my wife's store that Sat but I can stay all Sunday and even Monday all day.

Does anyone want to make some phone calls to possible sponsors and head that end of this up?

[Turkeypen]

On a typical hamom, we all seem to stumble over each other (PBR induced).

With a hamom like this, maybe we could break down the project into one day doable tasks, then assign those tasks to 2 to 3 man/woman teams. Each team would work from a pop up canopy with their project. For example, the upholstery team would remove all the seats, and take them to a separate work area, and work from a large folding table

Based on the photos, here are some tasks that could be broken down:

1. Carb replacement - one person
2. Tune up (with valve adjustment, timing, etc.) one person
3. Upholstery - two people
4. Top removal (new gasket, new bolt kit when placed back on) -- three people
5. Wheels and Bib (repaint, replace tires if needed) - - one person
6. Cooling system overhaul -one person
7. Fluids -- one person
8. Bling (Marshall's specialty) - -Marshall
9. Undercarriage - two people
10. Body work (that diamond plate is a bad sign) - - two people
11. Safety (replace seat belts if needed, install fire exting., replace brake pads/shoes, flush the brake lines) - - one person
12. Electrical (make sure all lights work and perhaps upgrade to LED based on Marshall's earlier thread)

We could order/donate: a new carb, tune up kit, new upholstery from Atlas, repaint the top bibs and wheels, replace radiator and hoses and belts, change out all the fluids to full syn (thinking this truck is going to be stored for a while), and perhaps clean up the engine bay and make it shiny again. We could have a couple of guys crawl underneath and wire brush everything and POR15 it

I think we need to recruit a top flite mechanic (paging ACC) to supervise our work and tell us what to do. Perhaps we invite Atlas to "come on down" and teach us all how to install his new upholstery (this could result in lots of sales for him)

With less than 20 people we could really make a difference in one weekend.

If we break this down early enough and assign each task to a team, each team could be responsible for either getting the necessary parts or a donation for the parts. People could pick and choose what they wanted to do and what they had some skill at (Steve, opening PBR is a gift not a skill) - - invest each team in the project. For example, I would volunteer for the upholstery project and contact either Atlas or SOR or CCOT to get the supplies.

Just thinking out loud here . . .

[Trollhole]

I'll have a carb and dizzy for him by then.
The biggest thing will be knowing the condition of the motor and the brakes.

What we really need is some deatailed pics of the body.

That or someone who knows what they are looking at go see it and make an assessment of what it needs.

[Turkeypen]

Originally Posted by Trollhole

. or someone who knows what they are looking at go see it and make an assessment of what it needs.

That leaves me out . . .

[eventhough]

Troll - I've got some info from JamesR via PMs. I'll post it up below. I gave JamesR some additional tests to run but too much past that and it falls out of my realm of knowledge and needs to be picked up by someone else. I don't mind helping out as much as possible though.

Also - once you get the new wet hot compression numbers, and wet and dry cold compression numbers (see request below) I can post all this on your MUD thread and get other advice too.

The PMs are pasted below. They are kind of all jumbled up so I apologize for that...

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Hi Steve - I just completed the test; here are the results.

1st cyl - 143
2nd - 136
3rd - 150
4th 127
5th - 127
6th 120.

I cranked it and let it run for about 15 minutes - I then labeled the wires removed them, grounded the coil wire to the frame and tested each cyl. I'm sure I can find out what the numbers mean. I believe you said they should be between 140 and 160 but I can't remember.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Have you worked on adjusting the carb any?

I know the driver's side barrell is not working, only the passenger's side. I've screwed in the set screw all the way and backed it out about 2 turns.

Sometimes blue smoke is really black which is b/c the truck/carb is running rich.

When was your last oil change?

We changed oil about 2 months ago, or about 15 minutes of engine running ago.

How much oil did you put in? If you overfilled it could cause the blue smoke.

We followed the recommeded levels; I checked it as we filled it and it's not overfull.

What weight oil are you running? If you are using too light of oil (10w30) for an old motor you could go up to 20w50. That's what I ran in my 2F before I rebuilt it.

Whatever the book said. But I may need to go to 20w50. What you said makes sense.

You said you have almost no oil pressure. Do you have an OEM oil pressure sending unit or a mechanical gauge?

OEM - the wire is connected. The pressure increases as the RPMs increase.

Have you checked your PCV valve? If you need a new one I have a trail spare you can have.

I don't know what/where this is...so, no I haven't checked it.

Are you sure the smoke is blue?

Pretty sure...

Does your exhaust smell like fuel?

I think so.

Are you burning oil? Have you run the 40 long enough to see if oil is burning off by reading the dipstick?

I haven't had it long enough. Josh told me it burned or leaked oil. When I ran the dry test it seemed like plugs 3, 5, 6 were more oily than the rest.

Take the air filter out and run the motor - does the smoke get worse?

No air filter.

Run your compression test again, wet and dry, with a COLD motor. What are the #s?

I'll do this too. (I don't have these #s back yet from JamesR)

Is your choke all the way off? (knob on the dash pushed in all the way and the choke cable not hanging up?)

I engage the choke to crank it. Once it's running I disengage the choke.

Note - worn valve guides can cause low oil pressure... = head rebuilt = ~250 turn key from a machine shop plus a OEM head gasket = $100. Only get an OEM head gasket.

Here is a little diagnostic. Blue smoke at start up usually = bad valve seals = head rebuild. Now, go for a drive if the 40 is capable, coast down a hill for awhile without any throttle, at the bottom punch the gas and watch out back - does a TON of BLUE smoke come out? Blue smoke at the bottom of the hill usually = bad rings which also could be diagnosed by your wet compression #s raising from your dry numbers.

Looks like Monday is really going to be busy.

How long has the engine sat? Hasn't it been a few years? Have you ever heard of Seafoam? You can put a few straw fulls of this in each cylinder and let it sit for an hour or so (soak), then turn the motor over by hand a few times and let it sit for an hour or so, then crank like you are doing a compression test but don't let it start, let sit for a few minutes, then crank and let it start. This can help clean the cylinder walls. I have some Seafoam you can have too.

I know the engine sat for at least 2 years here at my home. I don't know how long it sat in KS before it was shipped to me. And no, I've never heard of seafoam (except at the beach). Can you buy it at an auto parts store?

All I can do is say thanks, Steve. I very much appreciate your help with all of this.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

The gas isn't old and today when I cranked it to warm it up for the compression test, there wasn't white smoke, just bluish...the oil guage wasn't reg. much pressure but I know it had oil in it. Jared, Josh's bro, is thinking about buying a 2F engine from the guy I told you about. We have limited funds and we want to get all we can with what we have. As I recall the engine is out of an 80's model FJ50 (?) I know it's not from a 40.
I'll call you after the wet test.

- haven't heard back about wet test #s. I told JamesR not not to buy a motor or have his current motor rebuilt yet.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

That's what I got for now. I'll update this thread as soon as I get more info. I'm going to keep this thread as the lead thread on MUD with info about our assistance to JamesR.

A BIG thanks to everyone. I appreciate all of the support.

[BMThiker]

Originally Posted by eventhough

JamesR confirmed that MLK weekend works for him and his family.

He has room for people to camp in his back yard by a creek and there is a fire ring.

He also has offered up some space inside for people to stay.

UC BOD - can we confirm MLK weekend as a go for JamesR before I post this elsewhere?

Sounds like a plan to me.

[eventhough]

Keep all the ideas coming David. I really appreciate it!

I just posted up some more info and we will see what the 40 Gods have to say.

As far as the undercarriage I painted most if not all of mine on the Pig with Rustoleum and it has held up pretty well. I did prep the metal pretty well first though and put probably four to six coats on.

I'll PM JamesR and ask for him to take pics of EVERYTHING and email them to me. I'll put 'em up on Photobucket and then link them here for everyone to see.

Thanks!!!

[eventhough]

Message left for pics - I'll post them as soon as I get 'em.

[eventhough]

PM sent to Michael at ACC.

I'm gonna post this up on Facebook too.

[eventhough]

Bob Adamson (chef extraordinaire) has stepped up and offered to donate parts.

THANKS BOB!

[Trollhole]

Originally Posted by eventhough

Troll - I've got some info from JamesR via PMs. I'll post it up below. I gave JamesR some additional tests to run but too much past that and it falls out of my realm of knowledge and needs to be picked up by someone else. I don't mind helping out as much as possible though.

Also - once you get the new wet hot compression numbers, and wet and dry cold compression numbers (see request below) I can post all this on your MUD thread and get other advice too.

The PMs are pasted below. They are kind of all jumbled up so I apologize for that...

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Hi Steve - I just completed the test; here are the results.

1st cyl - 143
2nd - 136
3rd - 150
4th 127
5th - 127
6th 120.

Gonna say there is carbon buildup or stuck or worn rings. Plus this thing has been sitting? From what I can tell it doesn't look like a blown head gasket. May just need some good cleaning. He could aways pour a trickle of water down the carb while the engine is running. Idea being you want to pour more than what will cause the engine to die. Usually will clean the combustion area out.



I cranked it and let it run for about 15 minutes - I then labeled the wires removed them, grounded the coil wire to the frame and tested each cyl. I'm sure I can find out what the numbers mean. I believe you said they should be between 140 and 160 but I can't remember.

120-160 is fine the higher the better. Don't want more than 15 difference between cylinders.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Have you worked on adjusting the carb any?

I know the driver's side barrell is not working, only the passenger's side. I've screwed in the set screw all the way and backed it out about 2 turns.

Sometimes blue smoke is really black which is b/c the truck/carb is running rich.

When was your last oil change?

We changed oil about 2 months ago, or about 15 minutes of engine running ago.

How much oil did you put in? If you overfilled it could cause the blue smoke.

We followed the recommeded levels; I checked it as we filled it and it's not overfull.

What weight oil are you running? If you are using too light of oil (10w30) for an old motor you could go up to 20w50. That's what I ran in my 2F before I rebuilt it.

Whatever the book said. But I may need to go to 20w50. What you said makes sense.

You said you have almost no oil pressure. Do you have an OEM oil pressure sending unit or a mechanical gauge?

OEM - the wire is connected. The pressure increases as the RPMs increase.

Have you checked your PCV valve? If you need a new one I have a trail spare you can have.

I don't know what/where this is...so, no I haven't checked it.

The PCV hose connects to the side lifter cover (cover behind dizzy) it goes to the spacer under the carb.



The PCV valve goes inbetween the hose and the nipple sticking out of the cover behind the dizzy. Any outoparts store will have this it's only around $5

Are you sure the smoke is blue?

Pretty sure...

Does your exhaust smell like fuel?

I think so.

Are you burning oil? Have you run the 40 long enough to see if oil is burning off by reading the dipstick?

I haven't had it long enough. Josh told me it burned or leaked oil. When I ran the dry test it seemed like plugs 3, 5, 6 were more oily than the rest.

Take the air filter out and run the motor - does the smoke get worse?

No air filter.

Run your compression test again, wet and dry, with a COLD motor. What are the #s?

I'll do this too. (I don't have these #s back yet from JamesR)

Is your choke all the way off? (knob on the dash pushed in all the way and the choke cable not hanging up?)

I engage the choke to crank it. Once it's running I disengage the choke.

Note - worn valve guides can cause low oil pressure... worn valve guides don't cause low oil pressure.
= head rebuilt = ~250 turn key from a machine shop plus a OEM head gasket = $100. Only get an OEM head gasket.



Here is a little diagnostic. Blue smoke at start up usually = bad valve seals = head rebuild. Now, go for a drive if the 40 is capable, coast down a hill for awhile without any throttle, at the bottom punch the gas and watch out back - does a TON of BLUE smoke come out? Blue smoke at the bottom of the hill usually = bad rings which also could be diagnosed by your wet compression #s raising from your dry numbers.

Looks like Monday is really going to be busy.

How long has the engine sat? Hasn't it been a few years? Have you ever heard of Seafoam? You can put a few straw fulls of this in each cylinder and let it sit for an hour or so (soak), then turn the motor over by hand a few times and let it sit for an hour or so, then crank like you are doing a compression test but don't let it start, let sit for a few minutes, then crank and let it start. This can help clean the cylinder walls. I have some Seafoam you can have too.

I know the engine sat for at least 2 years here at my home. I don't know how long it sat in KS before it was shipped to me. And no, I've never heard of seafoam (except at the beach). Can you buy it at an auto parts store?

All I can do is say thanks, Steve. I very much appreciate your help with all of this.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

The gas isn't old and today when I cranked it to warm it up for the compression test, there wasn't white smoke, just bluish...the oil guage wasn't reg. much pressure but I know it had oil in it. Jared, Josh's bro, is thinking about buying a 2F engine from the guy I told you about. We have limited funds and we want to get all we can with what we have. As I recall the engine is out of an 80's model FJ50 (?) I know it's not from a 40.
I'll call you after the wet test.

- haven't heard back about wet test #s. I told JamesR not not to buy a motor or have his current motor rebuilt yet.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

That's what I got for now. I'll update this thread as soon as I get more info. I'm going to keep this thread as the lead thread on MUD with info about our assistance to JamesR.

A BIG thanks to everyone. I appreciate all of the support.

All my stuff is in red.

[eventhough]

Thanks Marshall.

The "worn valve guides can cause low oil pressure" came from a MUD search - this is exactly the reason I'm enlisting help!!!

I just had an offer for a $ donation from a client who is ex-military. Can UC set up a way for anyone to donate $? Maybe a Paypal link on the UC website?

[eventhough]

WOW is all I have to say.

Todd Shirley (go STLCA!) has stepped up and donated $50 plus wrenching for the weekend.

THANK YOU!

[boombapslappy]

He has a paypal set up already. Would you rather UC keep up with donations and present to him or have folks give to him directly?

[boombapslappy]

Carp, let us know about the t-shirts as soon as you can. The sooner we get the design up, we can start taking orders. Proceeds go to the build? I vote yes. We need to try to have them in hand in time for MLK. Advertise the shirts to more than just the cruiser community. I'm sure lots of folks out there would get one to support this cause. There's a UC member (LowCountry) who could do the printing. I'll get his info as I can't recall right now.

[smkymntn]

Id say we make this official and call it MLK weekend.

[boombapslappy]

This will be UCs official monthly meeting for January. Please make every effort to attend if for no other reason, moral support.