84 FJ60 "Mystique" - Page 4

lextechautomotive · 07-03-09, 05:16 AM

The front inner axle shaft seals are the root of the leak, they allow the 90w gear oil to seap into the knuckle area, then the 90w gear oil dilutes the grease in the knuckle and begins to ooozzz out at the botton of the knuckle.
The repair entails doing a complete knuckle rebuild kit, 2 inner axle seals, 2 inner wheel brg seals, re-packing front wheel brgs, and alot of cleaning, just ask POSER, he now has experience with a front knucle rebuild and the mess that goes along with it.

Brock · 07-03-09, 05:37 AM

oh I remember the mess from changing out tristans front to disc brakes and having to mix and match parts to make it work as the stuff SOR sent was not exactly what we found in his knuckles....

fun fun

BELMONT148 · 07-03-09, 08:12 AM

About as mush fun as changing out your oil pan gasket yourself. Should have had Glenn do it with the clutch, that's when I did mine. Clutch/rear main/oil pan gasket all at the same time. Makes the rear main easier with the pan dropped anyways.

I can't think of a better way for you to get to know your new girl than doing a knuckle job and an oil pan drop. You will be best friends forever. Just make sure the gasket is dried to the pan before you attempt to raise it up, those things slide all over the place and there is a lot of holes to line up.

When you do it, I would get the Marlin Crawler HD seals instead of the stock ones.

If you ever plan on uping the gears, now would be a good time, because everything on the front end will be off, and you could simply drop the third and install the replacement.

Jeremy

BBQ BOY · 07-03-09, 09:42 AM

The front knuckle rebuild is a mess.

Brock · 07-03-09, 02:44 PM

Dropped Mystique off to get detailed while we went to Myrtle Beach. I usually do that all myself but wanted professional help to even out the paint as it had faded some over the years. OMG...I was blown away with how she looked when I picked her up. Steam cleaned the door panels, seats, etc....polished paint and it is shiny and same color as door jams now...tires, mudflaps, windows, dash, chrome...you name it.

I am working up some coupons from him for our Lowcountry Boil or a club event as well.....even if you dont take your Land Cruiser you can take your wifes car..unless it is a land cruiser as well. LOL Like Mine now

BBQ BOY · 07-03-09, 04:59 PM

Who is he, where is he and how much?

Brock · 07-03-09, 05:05 PM

it is PLEASANT DETAILS behind Speedee lube across from old Walmart and where the Sunoco is. It is $150 for full detail if he does not have to do clay bar and extensive work on paint. If he does or really large are $175. My mother in laws car is wash, wax and vacuum with wiping down and such but no stains or scratches and is EXPRESS which is $100 even. Trying to work club discount or a couple coupons for detail work. Nice guy....check out build thread on how good he did on Mystique. Going to get FJC done later and he is going to do the whole shebang and wax, claybar, etc. Likely after I get back from trip....

Used to be older fella named STERLINGS DETAIL up in area but apparently he stopped doing it or retired and this guy bought his contacts and number and does a decent business....it appears. Not a fly by night shop. Will come to you as well with mobile service at no extra charge. Guys name is James if I remember right.

Brock · 07-03-09, 05:06 PM

YOu can see the paint in build thread....exterior matches inside door jams and under hood now pretty much...

BBQ BOY · 07-03-09, 05:19 PM

Brock,
ThaT LOOKS FANTASTIC!!!! It's in Mt. Plastic right?

Brock · 07-03-09, 07:04 PM

yep...on Hwy 17

lextechautomotive · 07-03-09, 07:47 PM

You know now that she is now a show queen

/garage queen

that she will never want to get dirty.
LOOKS GREAT EVEN FOR A 60.

I've also got a detailer that i send my customers to on savanah hghwy that started his own detail shop. He was the lead detailing guy at lexus of charleston when i was there.
His name is Derick Ramsey and is located immediately next to the lexus store, south of it, in a small shop that he shares with another good friend of mine who has been doing paintless dent repair for 20+ plus years.

Brock · 07-03-09, 08:07 PM

That is great to know....thanks Glenn.

Naw she will go wheeling....just trying to ensure she looks this good in 10 more years and take care of her like my father and his sister did before me.

I do think that oil pan will be addressed right after Colorado...I hate spots on my driveway. The knuckles can wait...LOL

ocdbeetle · 07-03-09, 08:08 PM

Looks very nice......Its such a fine example of what a 60 should be....

BenMara · 07-03-09, 10:00 PM

front axle aint hard just time consuming

Brock · 07-04-09, 05:34 AM

we tore tristans apart on his at Docs....and though it was a long ordeal because the blind were leading the blind.....and DBenke was having fun welding.....but was not difficult for most part just messy as hell. Right Tristan?

BBQ BOY · 07-04-09, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lextechautomotive

You know now that she is now a show queen

/garage queen

that she will never want to get dirty.
LOOKS GREAT EVEN FOR A 60.

I've also got a detailer that i send my customers to on savanah hghwy that started his own detail shop. He was the lead detailing guy at lexus of charleston when i was there.
His name is Derick Ramsey and is located immediately next to the lexus store, south of it, in a small shop that he shares with another good friend of mine who has been doing paintless dent repair for 20+ plus years.

Spammer

Brock · 07-04-09, 07:59 AM

looks like it is the pan behind oil pan leaking...unless it is coming from up higher and flowing back. Think that is bottom of transfer case. Might have to do more than one fix or figure out what is loose up at top where it connects. :(

Brock · 07-04-09, 12:24 PM

spent last two or three hours getting acquainted with chrome in the sun...after putting a oil drip matt under her. :(

Some extra fine steel wool and the headlight bezels, grill, trim along bottom of rockers looks great...not new looking by any means but it is shiny chrome again instead of chrome with oxidation and gunk built up over the last 25 years.

Not hard work but in this sun and heat the smallest of tasks become a chore....

Little by little... Drove her to get fireworks and to buy the steel wool. Pulled into the stand by Main Road and Hwy17 as there was a stand in the boat lot by road. Guy goes apeshit over the Land Cruiser and says his friend has an 87 and is named Jason Andrews or something like that. So I give him a card with name and number on back and spent $150 on fireworks. Nice young couple.....he was jonesing over the cruiser and his girlfriend/wife said...go ahead, you know you wont do any work until you go look at it.

She is a keeper...LOL

BELMONT148 · 07-04-09, 02:43 PM

The pan behind the oil pan is the flywheel cover on the bottom of the bellhousing. It shouldn't be leaking there if the rear main seal was replaced, however it could be leaking at the gasket under the rear main. I would remove the cover under the bellhousing, degrease everything you can reach and reinspect after driving a little. That or just go ahead and pull the pan.

Jeremy

Brock · 07-04-09, 08:35 PM

yeah I had no drops anywhere before so figure it is something we touched or forgot to tighten or that was changed enough to open up a leak...it is only a couple drops when HOT...then it stops after a while.

will get on it after FJ SUMMIT likely...too much to do before.

IndianDoc · 07-05-09, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brock

dont forget Doc...he was sheeling a Cruiser when others were on chariots.

Going from stock to 35 Belmonts statements are very correct, going from 31 and updating the driveline for more effective power Brock is correct however it is fun to watch the fur fly. Behave

I don't think the Toyota Jeep was around when Raseses rulled but then I am getting old can't remember stuff like I once did. LMAO

Brock · 07-05-09, 11:11 AM

any body know where the hose connects to AirConditioner and where it is suppose to exit vehicle on a FJ60? Mine must have come off or gotten clogged recently as all the ice cold water ran on my foot today when turning a corner and none is dripping under truck while running and AC is working its but off. So no AC for me until I run down that fitting and line

BELMONT148 · 07-05-09, 12:00 PM

You should probably order you an FSM for your rig. It will make things a lot easier for you to self diagnose on your rig. There is a 1800 number to order them, I just don't have it at the moment. I am sure Glenn knows off the top of his head.

Jeremy

Brock · 07-05-09, 02:31 PM

I got a manual....going out this afternoon to see what I can find.

lextechautomotive · 07-06-09, 06:16 AM

The A/C water drain should be located at the passengers feet area in the center of the foot, well can be identified by having a black rubber hose going through the firewall. They will get clogged and cause water to build up in the evap box.
You do definately have an oil pan gasket leak at the back hump area of the pan, eventhough someone has already replaced the pan gasket they did it incorrectly.

Brock · 07-06-09, 09:21 AM

Got AC line worked out...there was no hose coming out of firewall so went to passenger foot area and found the hose attachment ot plastic blower housing...pulled off tube and then proceeded to catch and dump about 5-6 cups of water out onto driveway...one cup at a time with my finger plugging it in between dumpings. LOL Pulled tube through all the way and it looked intact...no clogs on inside either...it had a near 90* bend in it to fit properly it appears. I added some more hose to end to make sure it was long enough and fed it back through the firewall grommet ensuring it angled down once through and then reattached to plastic housing. Snugged a zip tie just barely where it connects to keep feet from knocking it loose. Checked in engine bay and the original hose was plenty long. IT must have been stuffed in the firewall and nobody every checked to make sure it went through...thereby crimping and stuffing the end to clog it.

Ran AC and it drips like it is suppose to now....

Going to do the oil pan gasket and hope that is just dripping and running down to center of lower flywheel housing when I get back from Colorado...will order parts now and do it upon my return.

Brock · 07-06-09, 09:21 AM

Got AC line worked out...there was no hose coming out of firewall so went to passenger foot area and found the hose attachment to plastic blower housing...pulled off tube and then proceeded to catch and dump about 5-6 cups of water out onto driveway...one cup at a time with my finger plugging it in between dumping. LOL Pulled tube through all the way and it looked intact...no clogs on inside either...it had a near 90* bend in it to fit properly it appears. I added some more hose to end to make sure it was long enough and fed it back through the firewall grommet ensuring it angled down once through and then reattached to plastic housing. Snugged a zip tie just barely where it connects to keep feet from knocking it loose. Checked in engine bay and the original hose was plenty long. IT must have been stuffed in the firewall and nobody every checked to make sure it went through...thereby crimping and stuffing the end to clog it.

Ran AC and it drips like it is suppose to now....

Going to do the oil pan gasket and hope that is just dripping and running down to center of lower flywheel housing when I get back from Colorado...will order parts now and do it upon my return.

Brock · 07-09-09, 07:30 PM

Tonight I upgraded my headlamps with the IPF/ARB setup. New IPF headlight housings (polycarbonate lense and special cut reflector), IPF H-4 bulbs 55/60 but have optical rating of 120/130, and a new wiring harness that is truly plug and play that allows you to maintain use of your lights switch just like OEM. Added to my build thread....took about an hour tops. Very nice kit and would say it increased the brightness and coverage of my lights easily by 3 or 4 times the oem capabilities....no shit!!!

Drove around tonight and I can see the entire road and into the woods beside road instead of looking like two MAGLIGHTS pointed at the apshalt in front of me. HIGH Beams are BRIGHT!!! and shine considerably further and brighter.

Anyone with 40, 60/62 that wants to upgrade from stock....this is the ticket...without a doubt for about $250.

ocdbeetle · 07-09-09, 07:47 PM

Great pics on the build thread.....Looks really nice....

Have you snapped a pic of the new lights yet? I'd like to see them unless they look like standard lamps...

I was thinking about going with the roundeyes for an updated look....I'm not so worried about seeing anything at night.....

Brock · 07-09-09, 08:00 PM

I heard nothing but good things about the ROUNDEYES kit...but just went with this one as it was IPF. The ROUNDEYES I believe are waterproof.....well if you offroaded yoru 40 but it does rain a lot here and we do have Hurricanes...LOL

I added two pics of the lights on LOW beam and HIGH beam on the build thread...are they not showing? It is very last post in the thread on page 2.

Turned off they look exactly same....standard 7" round headlamps.......just the lense is polycarbonate so nearly shatter proof...the mirror surface has special angles cut to direct light better as do the lenses for focusing of the beams....then you had a high performance H-4 bulb with a wiring harness that gives all available power to the lights to make them work at optimal levels....and THERE IS LIGHT!