There are a lot of things that can contribute to DW, but they fall into two categories: Slop or play in anything that locates the wheel and alignment. The other thing you need, is something to initiate the oscillation, like hitting a bump.
The easy thing to test would be to remove the spring spacers and see if the problem goes away or at least gets better. Dropping it down an inch would give you about 1.7 degres more positive caster and put you in the normal range. Zero caster is the magic number to have DW, because there is no self-centering force acting on the wheels. Even a little bump will start them oscillating. You might want to experiment with the toe in too; even outside the specified range and see if it gets better or worse.
To find the slop, pull and pry on all the suspension and steering components and look for anything that moves that shouldn't. This is often more productive than replacing parts and hoping for the best. You need a BIG pry bar, like 5 ft. Alignments shops have a tool that looks like a giant 5 ft channel lock pliers to compress things liked the control arms and look for slop. Pull and pry on everything. Do it with the wheels on and off the ground.
If the sector shaft and worm gear follower teeth are worn, you should be able to tighten this with the adjuster nut. In fact, you can tighten it so much that the steering is too tigh and won't return to center on its own. Maybe you are turning the screw the wrong way?
Another thing to consider is that a high lift may have enough play even without worn/cracked components to allow the wheel oscillation. I don't have any personal experience with lifts in that range, but maybe stiffer bushings might help.
The easy thing to test would be to remove the spring spacers and see if the problem goes away or at least gets better. Dropping it down an inch would give you about 1.7 degres more positive caster and put you in the normal range. Zero caster is the magic number to have DW, because there is no self-centering force acting on the wheels. Even a little bump will start them oscillating. You might want to experiment with the toe in too; even outside the specified range and see if it gets better or worse.
To find the slop, pull and pry on all the suspension and steering components and look for anything that moves that shouldn't. This is often more productive than replacing parts and hoping for the best. You need a BIG pry bar, like 5 ft. Alignments shops have a tool that looks like a giant 5 ft channel lock pliers to compress things liked the control arms and look for slop. Pull and pry on everything. Do it with the wheels on and off the ground.
If the sector shaft and worm gear follower teeth are worn, you should be able to tighten this with the adjuster nut. In fact, you can tighten it so much that the steering is too tigh and won't return to center on its own. Maybe you are turning the screw the wrong way?
Another thing to consider is that a high lift may have enough play even without worn/cracked components to allow the wheel oscillation. I don't have any personal experience with lifts in that range, but maybe stiffer bushings might help.
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