22REvolution. An 85 Pickup West Texas Build. (1 Viewer)

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Don't do double shackles.... I've never heard of anyone liking them. Something about them unloading weird.... Not sure but I did a lot of research and it didn't find anyone who liked them
 
Seems I remember reading the same thing about them unloading at awkward moments also. I agree. not going to go that route for a street driven machine.
 
Got an early start and managed to get the new chain, gears, guides, water pump and oil pump installed. Got all the belts on, oil pan on, sump and all the other parts I took off when I realized I forgot to pack the oil pump with lube. Taking a break to think it over whether to pull the oil pump off and pack it or start it up and pray for pressure. The radiator is still out, so I suppose it isn't that bad a job.
 
Can't you hook up a gauge right behind the oil filter on the block and crank it over without starting to see if you build oil pressure? I do remember priming my oil pump but others may know if you will be ok or not
 
Can't you hook up a gauge right behind the oil filter on the block and crank it over without starting to see if you build oil pressure? I do remember priming my oil pump but others may know if you will be ok or not

I do have a gauge just for this purpose, but it isn't metric threads. I believe the pitch is slightly different and I would have to order the adapter.

The oil pump would probably build pressure but it is aluminum and I want some lubrication in there before it spins to keep the wear to a minimum. Also the thin film of oil also goes a long way towards building suction so it will not have to crank very long. Maybe I'm being anal IDK.
 
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After thinking it through the night, I decided to turn the engine over and see if the oil pressure light would go out within a reasonable length of time. It did after about 20 seconds of cranking, so I felt good about it. I put the juice to her and she fired right up. All that is left is to install the radiator and add some coolant. Then I can move on to some fun stuff. The tubing for my rear bed should be in any day now.
I can also install the chevy springs I bought.
 
Here is a before and after shot of the timing chain replacement

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I think the two darker colored links in the chain were supposed to go at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions, but it turned out two links away so shouldn't be a big deal. I still need to adjust the valve clearances.
 
Today I went to bleed the brakes. I wasn't getting pressure so I thought, so I swapped in my spare M.C. Still nothing, so I got to cracking open some lines and found two of the rubber hoses were plugged up. I couldn't blow them out so I swapped two spares in their place. Now I was able to bleed the brakes and get a good pedal. So now with the engine running and having brakes, I put the truck into gear and am now able to move under power.

On the downside I found I have a tiny drip in the radiator. My spare radiator is from an 86 manual tranny. The 85 auto tranny radiator is thicker and am wondering if it is only due to an extra row for the internal tranny cooler? If I swap in the manual tranny radiator, it will keep the engine cool enough I'm guessing? I can add an external tranny cooler until I have a chance to swap to a manual tranny. Does this sound right?
 
I have started rebuilding the front brakes. The rotors are so thin, they must be original. I had a heck of a time getting those six cone washers to pop out. The FSM makes it sound sooo easy. Just tap them with a tapered punch. Yeah right!

Anyways, got the first rotor off and was wondering what kind of grease to go back with. Seems there are a ton of opinions on which is the better choice. I'm stuck using what is available to me at the local AZ or NAPA stores. I found some EP grease that claims to have Moly in it but don't know how much. I suppose it will work to protect the bearings, but will it be too sticky and not wipe off the back side of the ball. If the felt wiper doesn't get it cleaned off then I'm worried it will attract dirt to stick to it. Any thoughts on this?
 
Man when I did my front axle I just used napas grease that comes in the tubs and threw it all together and haven't had an issue. I did replace the wheel studs though. Which Napa has the wrong ones listed unless they've fixed it.
 
I have a feeling a lot of guys use wheel bearing grease in place of the knuckle lube. I'm kind of with you in agreement that it probably doesn't matter since todays greases are so much better than 30 years ago. I have never torn apart a knuckle that had #2 grease installed in place of the unobtanium that is supposed to be inside. I wonder if it thins out enough to move around, or does it just end up on the bottom? I'm of the uneducated opinion that it is a bit too thick to do what we want it to do inside the knuckle, but like you and others have said: It's been working for x many years now with no issues...
 
Today I installed the new rotor on the right hand side. I am reusing the old bearings and seals, but will freshen them up at a later date. Lots of work ahead of me and I don't want to get bogged down with easy to replace parts. I'd like to focus on the larger picture. I still need to replace the left side, and by then my tubes should arrive so I can start on the bed/cage.
 
Use Mobil 1 red synthetic grease on everything. That stuff is the s***
 
Things are coming along. Man temp dropped here in one night went to almost as cold as it got all winter in San Antonio, just thought I'd throw that out for some off the wall reason.
 
Just reminds us all to keep oil on our minds with the changing of seasons.
 
I put the driver side rotor on tonight and got the caliper on and also the hub. When I checked the lock/free setting on the hubs, it was obvious I put the passenger side hub on wrong. I think the collar that slides in and out must have popped loose from the spring and it is staying only locked. An easy fix but it will have to wait till tomorrow.
Called today to see if my tube came in and the guy told me it never shipped because there was a concern about the wall thickness. He was afraid it would be too thick for my bender, but I assured him I could bend DOM tube with it so he said he would re-order it. I suppose another two weeks. What a bummer! I'm tempted to re-install the OEM bed and just repair the floor in it. This way I can get it inspected and registered.
 
Truck is back together and running better than ever after I installed all the ignition parts. Plugs, wires, cap & rotor.
Interior is cleaned up and all back together also. I took off the windshield chrome and it seems the glass is just laying there. It isn't really stuck down. Guess I will remove the glass and clean the channel and install some butyl rubber modern sealant.
Any recommendations?
 
I helped the guy install the windshield in my truck, he did it in my garage. He had been doing it for almost 30 years, he knew all the tricks and had all the right tools and materials. Did a great job, especially getting all the trim back on (which is a PITA BTW). I would only do it that way from now on if you want to make sure it's not going to leak and is installed correctly.
 
I spoke with the windshield installer in my area and he said he has a generic rubber trim that will easily install and secure the windshield. He offered to help me with the install. Guess I'll start on the body work. Trying to decide the best course of action to fill in the rusted areas of the rain gutter above both doors. The area around the windshield only has one rusted area thank goodness.
I'm thinking of the following repair methods:
1. fiberglass
2. All-metal
3. POR Patch
4. Epoxy Putty

Any other suggestions?
 
Called to see when the 1.75" tube was going to arrive and the guy says two more weeks. Yikes! I'm ready to start on the bed already!

I guess I'll start on the bumper.
 

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