Builds Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap (1 Viewer)

[gnarlynick2072]

Thanks Dave, I will try this method first. I have a correct 32mm, 3/4" drive impact socket on order, it should arrive this week some time. I'm also not a fan of heating the bolt and I will try other methods before I resort to that. With the large amount of torque the bolt was originally set to and the fact that it has likely welded itself in place at this point, that may be the only way which will work. Thanks for the suggestion on blocking the crank in place with wood, that hadn't occurred to me.

The 24 valve clutch/flywheel assembly is much larger that the 12 valve stuff. I have all those parts new currently, they're just sitting on the shelf waiting to be installed. I did notice that the 90' HDJ81 my buddy imported from the UK has the small vacuum booster on the clutch master cylinder. It's a very "normal" feeling shift. When I purchased my clutch master, I referenced a VIN from OZ and apparently those truck didn't use a vacuum booster. They were equipped with the same sized clutch components a the UK trucks though. We'll see how it goes when it's all done and ready to drive.

Glad to be of help, the clutch weight will only make itself felt when sitting in traffic for example but, the difference with and without the booster is like night and day, and you may have become a namby mamby sissy having been spoilt with auto trans?

regards

Dave

Woah woah woah, no need for that booster stuff. The parts that Ross has should be the stuff I installed on my 80. It includes the most up to date superseded part number for the clutch disc and cover and clutch master cylinder with the square doo-hicky on the bottom. I can tell ya that the clutch is pretty damn soft compared to anything else I've been driving. It's actually a little too soft when you first drive it, but mine hardened up just a tad after 10,000km and it's perfect. My $0.02.

 

[Rock40]

Yes, I misspoke about the specs on the 1" drive impact wrench I have because I've owned it many years. I figured out this morning that it's a 1200ft/lb Chicago Pneumatic. Once I get the impact socket I'm hoping it will come right out.

 

[Dave 2000]

Woah woah woah, no need for that booster stuff. The parts that Ross has should be the stuff I installed on my 80. It includes the most up to date superseded part number for the clutch disc and cover and clutch master cylinder with the square doo-hicky on the bottom. I can tell ya that the clutch is pretty damn soft compared to anything else I've been driving. It's actually a little too soft when you first drive it, but mine hardened up just a tad after 10,000km and it's perfect. My $0.02.

Glad to hear that, I guess the spec for clutches outside of the UK are set up softer, I fitted a new clutch just before Christmas 2014, and it is difficult to operate without the vacuum, perhaps they fitted the stronger clutch cover because the amount of traffic the UK see's, or the fact that the all up towing weight is over seven tons?

If there is a softer alternative which will do the job and it makes the install easier then that is great.

regards

Dave

 

[hsumbal]

Nice Project.....

Did you consider importing an engine from Japan, I my experience you get very clean motors from Japan...though I am not sure but the emission regulations in Japan are very tight aswell so it should not have been an issue....

I got a 1HZ in pristine condition from Japan for my forty....

Pic attached..

 

[Rock40]

Sweet! That's super clean. I really looked everywhere for either a 12 or 24 valve engine and 5 speed. It was a long search and the UK worked out because my buddy was going over there on vacation. We purchased multiple engines because it's cheaper to ship 4 engines compared to one and he met the seller in person. It's hard to tell the condition of an engine when it's boxed in a big crate for international shipping though. I was surprised at how crusty the 24 valve was when it arrived and for whatever reason, the three 12 valves we got appear MUCH cleaner. At least it has relatively low miles and the timing belt appeared very new, we'll see how the BEB's are....

 

[Rock40]

I wrenched on the engine a bit more today. The plan at this point is to replace every external gasket, hose, nut, washer, seal, etc on the engine. As someone stated earlier, better to do this all now then have it fail in the backcounty somewhere. All the little hoses are pushing 20 years now and are spongy anyway....

Exhaust manifold, turbo and intake manifold are off now. All the exhaust studs have been removed and will be replaced with new. The intake manifold and turbo intake tube are going out tomorrow to be hydrojetted.

My current parts list for the next order from UAE is incredible at this point but I need a little help though.

I can't locate the correct P/N's for the two injection pump coolant hoses. Does anybody have those? I'm also looking for the hard (I believe oil feed) line (and copper seals) which runs from the side of the engine block to the front of the vacuum pump. The one I have now is so badly pitted I don't trust it. I've poured over parts diagrams but these parts have proven elusive...

Before any re-assembly occurs, I'll get the engine in to have the BEB's checked and serviced if necessary.

 

[Rock40]

These are the coolant lines I'm talking about. Note the gross foam in the background, it's gone now

 

[tweeek]

How did you manage with the exhaust manifold studs/bolts?

 

[Rock40]

Surprisingly well actually. I used a 1/2" impact gun and a 14mm 6 point socket, ALL the studs came out with the nuts still attached except one. I hit the stuck one with an oxy/acetylene torch after "double nutting" the stud, it came right out

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Be extra careful when putting the intake manifold back on. It is aluminum and the two outer nuts that hold it down will break the manifold when you over torque them. You will have to torque all of the nuts gradually, and the outer two ones always a little less than all the inner ones (it's in the 1HDFT manual). I broke a manifold, and it is an expensive part to replace.

Regarding part numbers, do you have access to toyodiy including the images? You will find it all there.
Jan

 

[Rock40]

I haven't been able to figure out how to get those diagrams loaded on ToyoDIY, I've been using the ones on the Partsouq site in the UAE

 

[gifu]

I have a 1HDFT/5-speed in my US-spec 80. you will like it.

couple thoughts:
harmonic balancer: I had removed mine to do the front main seal. 5 years later, the balancer delaminated, wobbled for a few thousand miles and destroyed the crankshaft. The bolt never came loose. In the course of my experience (ie: buying a new balancer, crank, bearings, etc)... I learned that this is more common than you would expect on the 1HZ, 1HDT, 1HDFT motor. I am saying this here to make everyone paranoid and replace their main pulley. (seriously... replace your main pulley people.)
Also, inspect the threads on the main pulley bolt; the last time around my threads were looking ugly. I installed a new bolt.

Bearings:
When I bought my truck, I did the BEB with the old ACL (I think?) bearings. The stock ones were looking ugly. I'm glad I did it. When I installed the new crankshaft, I installed new bearings. The replacement ACL bearings were... ok. They were NOT perfect. It had been about 60-70k hard miles. (I run DELO oil. I change at 3500 miles. But I drive a ton of dirty dusty places...)

EGR:
the GREAT thing about the EGR-equipped motors... you get a free intercooler adapter. If you unbolt the cross over pipe, the little circle-to-square adapter thing that comes right off the turbo will bolt onto the intake manifold.

1HDFT intercooler to intake

• gifu
• Oct 7, 2015

Also, the 2-bolt EGR port coming off the manifold... my motor now has a steel plate with an EGT probe.

Fuel Filter:
lots of stuff out there on fuel filters and such. I was running the stock HDJ80 one. When I re-did my crankshaft, I had my nearly new (6000 mile) injectors checked. They were all completely toasted due to water in my fuel. $1000 later...
I have since moved to a larger filter with a see-through bowl; and I drain a few ounces from it about every 500 miles. What I really want is a fuel filter with a water-sensor.

EDIT: here's the link to my crank replacement episode:
Wobbly Harmonic Balancer (main pulley) on 1HDFT

 

[Rock40]

Great info all around, thanks the harmonic balancer, washer and bolt are all going to be replaced shortly.

Thanks again to everyone who has offered their insight and wisdom on this project, it's much appreciated.

 

[Rock40]

, nearly a 1.5K parts order from the UAE today at least EVERYTHING minus the internals will be new in the near future, sheesh

 

[Rock40]

It pays to have the right tools for the job Chicago Pneumatic 1200ft/lb 1" drive impact+32mm 3/4" drive socket=crankshaft pulley bolt out in about 1.5 seconds. I'm not kidding. Pleased to say the least. I ordered the socket from McMasterCarr; you have to love that nearly everything they sell is either USA made or European.

I'm cleaning this thing within in an inch of it's life currently.

All the steel engine mounts, turbo mount and alternator mount where washed, media blasted, primered and painted today. I'm slowly going through everything and giving it a thorough cleaning at this point. After HOURS of scrubbing it, I also painted the engine block, I can't stand working on dirty, nasty stuff. The injection pump and vacuum pump are also out at this point, everything will get new O-rings/seals when it goes back together.

 

[Rock40]

OK, the engine is now on a stand and I'm getting closer to addressing the BEB's. Just to clarify, BEB's refer to the main crankshaft bearings not the connecting rod bearings, correct? Also, I'm trying to get the bearings addressed while leaving the head on the engine. Is this doable? I know I can't spin the crank because of the valve/piston clearance with the head installed. I'm planning to run plastigauge on all the main journals and go from there.

 

[Locked79]

Bebs are the shell type bearings for the bottom of the connecting rods. Crankshaft journals bearings are the mains.

Afaik there was never a problem with the mains in any toyota engine.

Bebs are easy, just pull the sump. But to change the mains you have to split the cradle from the block

All can be done with the head in place. If all the journals are in goog condition, plasti gauge will be sufficient.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

OK, the engine is now on a stand and I'm getting closer to addressing the BEB's. Just to clarify, BEB's refer to the main crankshaft bearings not the connecting rod bearings, correct? Also, I'm trying to get the bearings addressed while leaving the head on the engine. Is this doable? I know I can't spin the crank because of the valve/piston clearance with the head installed. I'm planning to run plastigauge on all the main journals and go from there.

You will replace the rod bearings, not the main crank bearings. You can only get to the main bearings when taking the crank out, which requires complete disassembly of the engine. Once you flip it over and lookout it it will be obvious.
Order the bearings and also new bering cap bolts (12). They are cheap and good insurance and you don't have to measure bolt tolerances. It is all well described in the manual, make sure to look at it before.

Yes, you can flip the engine with the head on. Obviously drain everything well first. And be EXTREMELY careful. This engine is very heavy, especially the head. It is also not balanced well at all on the engine stand, and will want to flip over fast. There is NO WAY for a single person to flip this safely and horrible injuries can occur. I would suggest to mount it on a sturdy engine stand, then hook the top to an engine hoist, and then slowly let it rotate by lowering the hoist. Please don't look at it and think "I can do this with a buddy without a hoist". You can't. Ok, enough of the cautionary tales.
Great progress, you will love this engine.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

And don't forget that there is a seal in the main pulley! If you forget that your oil will drain fast...

 

[Locked79]

Just for reference. Mine after 200k kms.

50k of that at 32psi boost