Rectifier diode questions (1 Viewer)

[Mace]

so, I was working on making a switch to control the exhaust restrictor in my 2000 F350. It essentially is just adding a switch that puts power to the restrictor and acts as a homebrew mild exhaust brake.

This is the mod I am going to do.. TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com

My main question is what sort of rectifier diode do I need? I found one that was 3A and something like 90 Volts.

Will that work?

I'm fairly far from my expertise zone when it comes to individual circuts on a board..

 

[george_tlc]

Well, the diodes will carry the current needed to operate that valve. So, they need to be rated greater than whatever that valve draws when active....

cheers,
george.

 

[Mace]

I bought the ones I saw and hooked them up to a 12V car battery. Using a test light, the power only went one way.

So, I guess they will work lol

 

[rusty_tlc]

Just for grins what was the part number of the diode?

 

[Mace]

NTE579

http://www.nteinc.com/specs/500to599/pdf/nte579.pdf

 

[Fast Eddy]

I bought the ones I saw and hooked them up to a 12V car battery. Using a test light, the power only went one way.

So, I guess they will work lol

3a is pretty small. It would be nice to know the worst-case draw of the valve under load, but Ford probably won't tell you. If you can figure it out, double it for a safety margin.

Maybe something like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Molded-Plastic-1000V-Rectifier-Diodes/dp/B009IN1KB8

 

[Mace]

The ones referenced in the install are only 1.5a

It looks like the number was pulled from the write-up I posted above. Probably because F'n Radio Shack does not exist really any more.

Radioshack - Products

 

[Fast Eddy]

Cool then. You already have the 2x safety margin. I think the e-locker fuse is 5a. It probably doesn't draw that much. This valve must be more efficient.