Builds Shipwreck (12 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I'll probably get in trouble for this - however, in case not, I like this product and it's a discount for anyone who wants
ImageProxy.mvc

- Refer a Friend Program -
Hi SuberBuickGuy,

Get a $10 off for each referral.
Your friends get 15% off all products!

*Discount expires on 2 October 2015.

Forward this link or share it online:
KBS Coatings - Friend Offer

you don't have to a friend to use the code :flipoff2:


and the reason I like it, it adheres well and it sprays quite easily straight out of the can...
 
Since I post the process - this is another "process" post

This weekend will likely be the last 70+ degree days for this year. As most who paint their vehicles know, 70 degrees is kind of the "below which no one may cross and get a good paint job." Optimal paint temperature is mid-70s, production shops paint at 90 degrees, but that's because they don't care that the shine last a day longer than the warranty. Above 80 degrees, bugs and dust really fly. Below 70 degrees the paint simply dries so slowly that all manner of stuff ends up in the paint not to mention that rather then a coat of paint every 20-30 minutes it's a coat a day otherwise you have runs for days.

Anyway, to that end, I had been thinking about spraying the ceramic undercoating on this Sunday/Monday.... or I'll work on a way of heating my shop.... which would include putting some insulation in and figuring out a way to keep the dust at bay....
 
tonights saga begins with hubs

dana 60 hubs


yep, front axle shaft diameter is dana 60 sized... just not dana 60 hang-down on the pumpkin

35 spline double-splined axles for the rear. I think I can safely say that these won't be what breaks


I wish Nitro Gear had engraved their logo on the ends - normally, I don't do advertising - they really have helped out on this project




the axles are cut-to-fit, so I need to trim 1/2" off and all will be well




and what took all my time tonight and will again tomorrow night


and a brace... I had to move the bracket back - it's meant to attach to where the stock fenders attach, however, that's exactly where the coil over resides... oh well





and sheet metal is where I stopped


 
so this is funny, to me.... look at this picture again
P9020010_zpsh3txlwzt.jpg


you get bonus points if you notice the radiator isn't level... I leveled the grill as part of tonight's work, and looked at the front and said "hey, wait a minute"... oh well, I also have to move it back towards the motor (lean it back) so the hood doesn't hit it... I wish I was as good as those guys on TV, *shrugs*
 
Fenders look a bit wider on each end than stock, intentional?

And there is a whole lot of crooked going on in that picture...
 
everyone's a critic :rolleyes: yes, the vehicle isn't level but I haven't fixed it because there's no reason to level it yet and one reason to leave it alone for now.... a level's bubble generally centers between two lines but doesn't touch either line when level. In this case, the bubble is exactly on the line so it's actually easier to make stuff parallel.

and don't get fooled by the radius on the fenders

I was looking at the width last night and it wasn't readily apparent that it's wider - problem is the fender dives under the skirts and the paint line doesn't exist anymore on the fenders.... long-winded "I don't know" and I just had a thought.... hold on, edit coming

if it is, it's not by much
 
The radiator is actually the only thing level in that picture, well that and the garage door behind it.
The stock fenders are the same width as the tub if you need a reference.
 
This thing is absurd...ly awesome! I cannot believe how fast you work. Mind blown.
 
Been distracted with other things but got a few things done on this





got the sheet metal on, ish


Just a bit short on one end


the finished(ish) product




so time to see compression and such stuff


looks like this fender fits

I really need to get on bolting the spring in because it's pretty annoying to watch it roll across the floor whenever I lift up the vehicle


flex... more importantly, tire clears fender




and last thing tonight was assemble the Nitro gears custom axles....
 
Mate I love this build I wish I could get half this stuff where I live
 
Mate I love this build I wish I could get half this stuff where I live
I'm sure Nitro delivers... but I feel your pain, I have friends who live in Bolivia - and I am working on sending a high-lift jack to them.... last quote, $700.00.... just to ship a jack. So it sits and waits for the right opportunity to get it there (I know people who know people who can get it done as luggage).
 
good gravy I'm irritated.
I figured tonight I'd do a fairly easy job... a bit of work leveling the fender (that was easy).. then the "easy" job of lubing bearings, installing seals, installing the axle shafts....


so I got to here


yay, end in sight... NOT

why won't the hub go on?


on the old axle, this is how it's supposed to fit


it slides over the end to give strength to the hub


but wait, it doesn't fit over the 30 spline new hubs
wtf.gif




new hub on right, old hub on left (both milemarker premium hubs)


they're the same... however, it's a 30 spline new shaft (same as GM dana 44s) - yet it looks like someone put the ford hubs in a box with the chevy inners.... oh good grief.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom