Accidental fuel adjustment (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 30, 2014
Threads
3
Messages
59
Location
Killaloe ON
This morning I attempted to change the diaphragm in the IP pump on my 3B. I say attempted because I dropped the washer that goes behind the cotter pin inside the pump (OR MAYBE ON THE GROUND)

My problem however is that in a fit of frustration I tried to remove the HAC By unscrewing it. It didn't occur to me until it hit the EDIC what I was doing.
So assuming I ever find that washer and get the Diaphragm reinstalled, how do I go about re-setting the max fuel? I've turned the Hac back in to the approx place it was (screwed almost all the way in) but I cant be certain.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Andy
 
This morning I attempted to change the diaphragm in the IP pump on my 3B. I say attempted because I dropped the washer that goes behind the cotter pin inside the pump (OR MAYBE ON THE GROUND)

My problem however is that in a fit of frustration I tried to remove the HAC By unscrewing it. It didn't occur to me until it hit the EDIC what I was doing.
So assuming I ever find that washer and get the Diaphragm reinstalled, how do I go about re-setting the max fuel? I've turned the Hac back in to the approx place it was (screwed almost all the way in) but I cant be certain.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Andy

Hi Andy

Drive it to the nearest big hill and put your foot to the floor in 3rd to try and accelerate up to top gear.

Check:
  • how much power you've got - (And if it seems low, wind out the HAC some more and try again)
  • if there's any black smoke from your exhaust\ - (And if you see dense black smoke, wind in the HAC and try again)

You should aim for just the faintest haze of black smoke at the point of heaviest acceleration
:beer:

PS. If this was me, I wouldn't rest until I'd found that washer (so as to be sure it never dropped inside).

I have some quite powerful magnetic retrievers that are very useful for finding my lost washers/nuts etc :D
 
There's no oil galleries in that section of the pump and no way for that washer to get into the real internals of the pump.. in the event that you dont find it.. I wouldn't lose TOO much sleep over it..
 
anyone know the similar adjustment for a 12ht? I get large amounts of unburnt fuel punching in third. I haven't replaced the diaphram. I have messed with the on and off boost screws. Any suggestions would help. Thanks!
 
Ok Great those are both the answers I was hoping for. Tomorrow I'll go at it with a small magnet and an inspection camera and see if the washer turns up. If not, I have more...
I got the washer on first try and it slid off as soon as I let go of it. The shaft points down a bit so I mite put a dab of Vaseline on it to keep in place while I put the cotter pin in.

As far as the fuel adjustment goes, so I start with slightly less fuel and work up or the other way round? Do I need to worry about EGT's being that I'm not turbo'd?
 
..As far as the fuel adjustment goes, so I start with slightly less fuel and work up or the other way round? Do I need to worry about EGT's being that I'm not turbo'd?

A brief bit of overfueling (whereapon you ease up on the accelerator when you spot the black smoke) shouldn't do any harm in my view. (But excessive EGT's when maintained on a long-incline, with or without turbo, can cause damage so I'm told.)

I'd try and get it set right on the first attempt by studying the threads to see where the patina/oxidation starts/ends (and thus identify where the locknut etc originally was) and then work from there. (Or perhaps if you don't see any black-smoke issues and your power seems to be as it always was ... then just leave it there in that position.)

If you can't see any oxidation/patina boundaries .... then I suggest just guessing where it was as your starting point.

:beer:
 
I dropped the washer when I did my diaphragm also. Ended up removing that front half of the governor to find it. I managed to put everything back together without issues but went slower the second time around. I wouldn't lose sleep over finding it, as its been mentioned above, the washer cannot get into the workings of the pump anyway.
 
update: Looked for the washer for a while with the inspection camera and a magnet doesn't look like its in there.
I will check one more time after work and then try to reassemble.
 
update: Looked for the washer for a while with the inspection camera and a magnet doesn't look like its in there.
I will check one more time after work and then try to reassemble.

Probably never dropped INSIDE your governor and instead is lying on top of a bash-plate or fallen inside a chassis-rail or something like that...
 
Its all back together now. Went pretty well, I used a bit of Vaseline on the washer to hold it while I put the pin back in.
The washer wasn't inside the governor, I made certain with the camera.
The Diaphragm is working well. Idle is back down. I'm deff. a little lean with the fuel, but its drive-able for now till I have time to adjust it.
I was considering installing a pyro anyway, so now I think I'll will before dicking with the fuel anymore.

On a side note: The morning after I finished and made a test run, I had no crank (7 volts) Low side battery pretty well dead. I trickle charged it for a few hours and switched them around. Seems ok so far.
The battery's are new blems I put in in the spring but at $35 each I don't expect much.

What is 2015's recommendation for quality batts? A search brings up mostly 10 year old answers.
Its too bad there isn't a source for 24 volt batts.
 
I went to France to buy 90 Amp batteries with 3 year warranty (Dutch had 1 or 2 years)
And after 28 months replaced one for free!

Because we travel to France often it was no hassle, used a 60 amp battery as spare and had no problem to my surprise.
 

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