- Thread starter
- #41
Found the lights, hiding under the seat belts
Rust....
Rust....
FJ45LV in New Zealand (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Taha32
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
Sills are gone
Yea, tried to take it for a drive before the clutch slave leaked and the break line blew
Yea, tried to take it for a drive before the clutch slave leaked and the break line blew
- Thread starter
- #43
Does anybody know how the door locks work? There is a key hole in the drivers door handle but can not see how to lock the doors from the inside. Plus the passengers door does not want to open from the outside so I think it is locked.......
I had this problem once too. The driver door and rear hatch use a key from the outside to lock. The other 3 doors lock by pushing the door lever forward and in. They unlock by pulling the lever back to open the door. No way of locking or unlocking those from the outside. I hope that makes sense.
- Thread starter
- #45
Right, a mate has bought a fj55 really cheap picking it up this weekend. More rust than metal in the body but the chassis and running gear is good, it drives.
So would I be able to stick my fj45v body on the fj55 chassis? And major differences?
This would cut down my workload and get it drivable quickly.
So would I be able to stick my fj45v body on the fj55 chassis? And major differences?
This would cut down my workload and get it drivable quickly.
- Thread starter
- #47
Thanks, might have to rethink. But the fj45v wheel base is 2650mm which is closer to the fj55 than the regular fj45. I need to get them side by side and get the tape out
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I thought you weren't in a rush cause you have a driving FJ45 ute?
- Thread starter
- #50
Yea, but other wise the fj45v will sit in my mates paddock for a few years. And my mates and I will turn the fj55 into a river hack, I would rather it be put to better use.
Might use my chassis and swap in the running gear and engine.
after seeing the crazy money that restored LV just bought in the states I would not even consider a chassis swap
I agree, I wouldn't be rushing into it, especially if you have other projects to play with.
- Thread starter
- #53
Yea there are enough projects/trucks between my mates. At the moment between five of us we have 8 land cruisers. Might be 9 next week with a bj40 in the crosshairs
Pzj70
Bj70
Bj45 x2
Fj45
Hj45
Fj45v
Fj55
Following with interest, can't be many of these in NZ, i've never seen one in the metal.
Would love to have one of these one day, or an FJ55.
Would love to have one of these one day, or an FJ55.
- Thread starter
- #55
Come and have a look if u are ever in Christchurch. It would not surprise me if someone had one sitting in a back shed somewhere in NZ
A friend of my uncles in Taranaki has a collection of vintage and classic bikes & cars that he's bought so that they don't leave the country. He's the sort of guy that would probably let you store the car in one of his sheds if it meant it was preserved.
- Thread starter
- #58
Thanks for the offer but one of my mates is putting a big shed up just out of Chrustchurch so it going to go in there for a while. If it makes it home to Hawkes Bay there's a old dry Apple pack house waiting for it.
- Thread starter
- #59
carb came off, cleaned and put it back together. Ok for the moment but will need a rebuild kits only running on 4-5 cylinders, needs new spark plus. Cleaned them up and ran better so it might be something else.
Got the engine warm and drained the oil, engine is not accelerating properly but I think it's the carb. All the gauges work in the cluster after finding the oil sender wire disconnected.
The black is diesel oil, the Gray is what came out. Closer to the consistency of diff oil than engine oil. Will leave it dripping overnight. And suggestions on getting the old gunk oil out? A mate said put a couple of bottles of kerosene though it?
Need to order some parts from the U.S. But shipping seems steep, keen on getting carb kit, and clutch slave so I can at least try and go for a drive.
Got the engine warm and drained the oil, engine is not accelerating properly but I think it's the carb. All the gauges work in the cluster after finding the oil sender wire disconnected.
The black is diesel oil, the Gray is what came out. Closer to the consistency of diff oil than engine oil. Will leave it dripping overnight. And suggestions on getting the old gunk oil out? A mate said put a couple of bottles of kerosene though it?
Need to order some parts from the U.S. But shipping seems steep, keen on getting carb kit, and clutch slave so I can at least try and go for a drive.
I wouldn't use kerosene as it's a cutting compound if doing it on the cheap a few hundred mm of automatic transmission fluid. If you spend a few bucks you could use the Wins or Nolan engine flushing additives but these guys seem to have good success cleaning engine internals.
Fuel Injector Cleaner | Cost Effective Maintenance
Fuel Injector Cleaner | Cost Effective Maintenance
