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What did you do on your 70 series today? (15 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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Some more bits rolling in.....
New transmission shifter parts. I like doing this kind of thing to 30 year old vehicles since they are all worn out anyway.
And basically every exposed body grommet/hole plug that I could get for the floor while everything is out. Nice rubber is good to have.
New transmission shifter parts. I like doing this kind of thing to 30 year old vehicles since they are all worn out anyway.
And basically every exposed body grommet/hole plug that I could get for the floor while everything is out. Nice rubber is good to have.
Small steps:
New OEM fuel lines at the IP, fuel filter and going back on the return line. 30 year old fuel lines were cracked and hard. New clamps as well.
There are three sizes need: 8mm, 6mm, and 4mm and corresponding clamps. You will need 2 lengths of the 8mm stuff, one of the 6mm and one of the 4mm.
Here is a pic at the IP... Other ones are harder to photo.
Then a new Fan and fan clutch:
And the shifter boot, seat, seal installed.
New OEM fuel lines at the IP, fuel filter and going back on the return line. 30 year old fuel lines were cracked and hard. New clamps as well.
There are three sizes need: 8mm, 6mm, and 4mm and corresponding clamps. You will need 2 lengths of the 8mm stuff, one of the 6mm and one of the 4mm.
Here is a pic at the IP... Other ones are harder to photo.
Then a new Fan and fan clutch:
And the shifter boot, seat, seal installed.
My JDM BJ70 has s rear heater that I do not use and am removing. The HVAC lines for coolant have a fitting at the front of the head on PS.
This needs to be removed and plugged.
1/2 pipe thread and a hex fitting took care of that.
Here is a pic of the fitting and the removed joint:
The fitting part number was from my local ACE hardware store.
They have such good hardware.
This needs to be removed and plugged.
1/2 pipe thread and a hex fitting took care of that.
Here is a pic of the fitting and the removed joint:
The fitting part number was from my local ACE hardware store.
They have such good hardware.
wardharris
SILVER Star
Ace IS the place...
Some more small progress:
1. Removed rear heater and all hard lines (not fun-- sawzall was involved).
2. Flushed block with muriatic acid (10 mins only sitting in block and then power rinse for 10 mins with all drains open).
3. New OEM heater valve.
4. Painted parts.
5. Clean manifold heat shield and painted with high temp paint. I am waiting on new exhaust manifold gasket to replace old one that has a bit of a leak. Replacing all hardware at the same time. Exhaust manifold itself will be cleaned and painted.
6. New block drain cock.
Old valve:
New valve:
And the hose coming from the firewall to the valve. Now discontinued.
1. Removed rear heater and all hard lines (not fun-- sawzall was involved).
2. Flushed block with muriatic acid (10 mins only sitting in block and then power rinse for 10 mins with all drains open).
3. New OEM heater valve.
4. Painted parts.
5. Clean manifold heat shield and painted with high temp paint. I am waiting on new exhaust manifold gasket to replace old one that has a bit of a leak. Replacing all hardware at the same time. Exhaust manifold itself will be cleaned and painted.
6. New block drain cock.
Old valve:
New valve:
And the hose coming from the firewall to the valve. Now discontinued.
Then we have new block drain cock with old. Good replacement.
New water pump and gasket. I'm happy that Toyota went away with the paper material and decided on a metal gasket, both at the water pump and the thermo housing to head.
New water pump and gasket. I'm happy that Toyota went away with the paper material and decided on a metal gasket, both at the water pump and the thermo housing to head.
While not required, I like using some sealant to the water pump and thermo housing gaskets:
Bolts cleaned and prepared for installation:
Gasket for thermostat housing to head; again, happy that it is metal vs paper element:
And the upper to lower half gasket (this one is paper with sealant reinforcement):
Bolts cleaned and prepared for installation:
Gasket for thermostat housing to head; again, happy that it is metal vs paper element:
And the upper to lower half gasket (this one is paper with sealant reinforcement):
Everything mounted up:
Bypass hose: (not available in the U.S. market):
Where it goes:
Bypass hose: (not available in the U.S. market):
Where it goes:
Wanted to deal with exhaust manifold leak.... Pulled everything and cleaned everything up. Waiting on gasket from Toyota:
Cleaned up and painted manifold:
Cleaned up and painted manifold:
I picked up a 92 4 runner booster with 1 inch master and calipers for a good price so just painted booster and rebuilt the master with new seals. I will pull the calipers down next and check for rust on the pistons when replacing seals. These old Asian parts are tough as most of the hatch from the original hone was in very good condition so it only needed couple pulls with the hone hopefully good for another 20 + years.
And to expand a bit on my earlier commentary: all Land Cruisers need to be treated like working machines (presses, shears, etc).
All folks that are buying these Japanese or non-US trucks should be going through all of their systems: HVAC, cooling, all fluids, all cooling components, brakes, seals, etc.-- fact of the matter Is we are getting hand-me-downs, or at least vehicles that are 25+ yrs old.
You need to do a lot with them to keep them going and if you don't your are going to be upset. IE: Your truck is going to fail on you.
These Diesel engined vehicles especially need care for the long term.
All folks that are buying these Japanese or non-US trucks should be going through all of their systems: HVAC, cooling, all fluids, all cooling components, brakes, seals, etc.-- fact of the matter Is we are getting hand-me-downs, or at least vehicles that are 25+ yrs old.
You need to do a lot with them to keep them going and if you don't your are going to be upset. IE: Your truck is going to fail on you.
These Diesel engined vehicles especially need care for the long term.
I picked up a 92 4 runner booster with 1 inch master and calipers for a good price so just painted booster and rebuilt the master with new seals. I will pull the calipers down next and check for rust on the pistons when replacing seals. These old Asian parts are tough as most of the hatch from the original hone was in very good condition so it only needed couple pulls with the hone hopefully good for another 20 + years.
View attachment 1127438 View attachment 1127441
You mean Aisin. Asian is an area of the world.
Aisin Seiki is the company that manufactures the boosters and MC'd and calipers.
Luckily I knew what you meant.
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More I think about it, I should probably start a build thread of my own as opposed to polluting this thread.
No way your polluting this thread.
Thank you sir. I will continue with your assistance from Down Under.
Appreciate it sir.
Ditto up here if you need maintenance parts... Parts are stupid cheap up here vs down under. Shipping sucks but if bulk works shipping would be worth it.
