This is really great stuff!!
Builds Shipwreck (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #642
FJ40 standing on its end - according to the shipwreck website, I'll be doing a lot of this since it has such a short wheelbase, so might as well make it look good 
now with primer
and inside too
so the axle was a bit long, and Nitro suggested shortening it. It's close... I admit being concerned about the length of spline engagement but I don't do axles for a living and these have a lifetime warranty...
you can see where the seal is now with the shortened shaft
next up, finishing up the underside so I can mount it back on the frame (and gain some room back)
on the lower ball joint, I had to clearance a bit
now with primer
and inside too
so the axle was a bit long, and Nitro suggested shortening it. It's close... I admit being concerned about the length of spline engagement but I don't do axles for a living and these have a lifetime warranty...
you can see where the seal is now with the shortened shaft
next up, finishing up the underside so I can mount it back on the frame (and gain some room back)
on the lower ball joint, I had to clearance a bit
- Thread starter
- #643
gratuitous shop shot
started working on the tub - roll bar backing plates
started working on the tub - roll bar backing plates
chappohj47
Chappo Built
Just caught up on the last few pages of your thread it's going great mate keep up the awesome work
- Thread starter
- #645
My goal is to have this done by the end of October.... It could happen, but it's not going to happen. Body work takes time, and I'm not going to rush it. I talked to a guy who has done body and paint for me - if you're having trouble getting them to do it your way at the start..... yeah, I'll be doing most of it myself. I may take the truck to him for final paint, but between his lack of experience with the various coatings I'm using and being certain about things I know are opinion (which are "fact" because it's easier for him to do)... why give myself the headache, I hate arguing with people more than I hate bodywork.
- Thread starter
- #646
didn't get much done on the '40 tonight... between unsticking the bobcat for the ten billionth time, doing an oil change on the H3, fixing the remote for the winch (not sure I accomplished that)... I ran out of time
- Thread starter
- #647
the joy of working by oneself
don't try this at home folks
obviously, from my last posts, I had to flip the tub for this round of test-fitting
and viola
to simulate action, I blur the background... and i have no idea how I managed this with my point-n-shoot camera
so there is a slight issue - this cross member should be 1/4" off the frame....
and it appears my guess was too low - actually, it wasn't - I was hoping it'd be tucked up further.... so it appears plan B is going to happen (cut and brace the body mount then run the exhaust further up)
the offending brace - the problem is that's also like a major mount for the roll cage - so it needs to be as stout as now...
I'll take lucky over good every day - I lucked out on the O2 sensor
don't try this at home folks
obviously, from my last posts, I had to flip the tub for this round of test-fitting
and viola
to simulate action, I blur the background... and i have no idea how I managed this with my point-n-shoot camera
so there is a slight issue - this cross member should be 1/4" off the frame....
and it appears my guess was too low - actually, it wasn't - I was hoping it'd be tucked up further.... so it appears plan B is going to happen (cut and brace the body mount then run the exhaust further up)
the offending brace - the problem is that's also like a major mount for the roll cage - so it needs to be as stout as now...
I'll take lucky over good every day - I lucked out on the O2 sensor
- Thread starter
- #648
tonight's fun (who am I kidding, I hate grinding)
make some covers and it's good to go
dang, it almost looks like I know what I'm doing with that safe
gratuitous shots
now that the body is close to its mounts... time to do the front fenders
make some covers and it's good to go
dang, it almost looks like I know what I'm doing with that safe
gratuitous shots
now that the body is close to its mounts... time to do the front fenders
I might have missed this - but are you tying your cage into the frame? If so, how are you planning on mounting it? Just curious as I've seen methods that use shock-mount style bushings and others that do a direct, welded tie-in.
- Thread starter
- #650
no, this isn't a race car. the biggest issue with tying to the frame is all the penetrations through the floor - oh and squeeks. I plan on putting loops around the frame to tie the body to the frame without a direct connection - but we'll see if I remember to do it when the time comes....
You could tie into the frame the same way most people do; some sandwich plates bolted together tying the frame to the cage MetalTech style which limits the size of the holes to those of bolts. There's some great video (TopGear Bolivia special) of that exact style of mounting holding together with zero failure. It's a small piece of insurance in the event of a roll over, especially when you consider the 40 is basically a death trap in an accident.
- Thread starter
- #652
I'm not sure I picture what you're saying. The cage is already tied to the tub's braces and supports. The prior pictures show the plates that tied the rails on the tub together. Those are what the roll cage is bolted to (3/16" steel). What I'm thinking of doing (on top of that) is making a U shaped channel that goes under the frame/body mount and prevent the body from pulling off the frame in case of a hard roll over. It won't actually be tied to the frame (thus no holes, no squeeks). At this point, the roll cage plates bolt to the welded cross braces which bolt through the body mounts to the frame.... maybe we're talking the same thing? dunno.
I think someone else already posted a photo, but you have one plate that is inside of the tub (obviously welded to one of the feet of the cage) and another plate on the bottom of the tub that's welded to the Fram by way of a scab plate. You bolt those two plates together pinching the tub between effectively tying the cage to the frame. From my experience, there was zero squeeks and it was rock solid.
- Thread starter
- #654
You mean like these - those are 3/16" plates that I put 2 90* bends on front to back
not only are they the underside of the plates, larger (never, ever use the same size plate), but also welded (and overlapped/under-lapped) to the braces that hold the tub together.
What I'm talking about is in addition to those backing plates making U shape channels that would prevent the body mount bolts from completely tearing off the body. If you hit hard enough, you can actually tear the tub from the frame. I don't want it to be able to do that but at the same time, not weld the roll bar to the frame (which would create holes in the floorboards and the possibility of squeeks.
the difference between what you're describing and what I'm doing is the rubber mounts can still act to isolate vibration. simply putting metal on metal - even if bolted through the body - would still cause squeeks, vibrations and rust issues where the cage and the body vibrate at different frequencies.
all I have left to do with those shear plates is to redrill the bolt holes for the cage.
not only are they the underside of the plates, larger (never, ever use the same size plate), but also welded (and overlapped/under-lapped) to the braces that hold the tub together.
What I'm talking about is in addition to those backing plates making U shape channels that would prevent the body mount bolts from completely tearing off the body. If you hit hard enough, you can actually tear the tub from the frame. I don't want it to be able to do that but at the same time, not weld the roll bar to the frame (which would create holes in the floorboards and the possibility of squeeks.
the difference between what you're describing and what I'm doing is the rubber mounts can still act to isolate vibration. simply putting metal on metal - even if bolted through the body - would still cause squeeks, vibrations and rust issues where the cage and the body vibrate at different frequencies.
all I have left to do with those shear plates is to redrill the bolt holes for the cage.
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I had not checked this thread for a bit and just read through 3 pages of rapid progress. Well done! Work looks fantastic and I can't wait to see some pics of it in the elements.
- Thread starter
- #656
I think this is the most body panels I've had on the vehicle yet (and yep, will still blow it apart again)
those bits from the last pictures... I'm sure I make people dizzy because I flit from one project to another... there is, at times, method to the madness - other times, I've got a case of the don'twannas and simply do something else. The fenders... yeah, don't feel like dealing with the exhaust - so here it goes
in a lower position
I think the issue with this position is it will hit a tire at full compression
boy, I need to square up the rear axle
starting to get an idea of where - I pulled it outside to get a better perspective on where to mount the fenders
one thing I am sure, I won't be using the mounting points they designed into these fenders - the mounting holes are behind the coil-over
those bits from the last pictures... I'm sure I make people dizzy because I flit from one project to another... there is, at times, method to the madness - other times, I've got a case of the don'twannas and simply do something else. The fenders... yeah, don't feel like dealing with the exhaust - so here it goes
in a lower position
I think the issue with this position is it will hit a tire at full compression
boy, I need to square up the rear axle
starting to get an idea of where - I pulled it outside to get a better perspective on where to mount the fenders
one thing I am sure, I won't be using the mounting points they designed into these fenders - the mounting holes are behind the coil-over
71FJnick
SILVER Star
Dude you're making crazy progress, nicely done.
- Thread starter
- #658
So I'm thinking of trying something a bit out-of-the-norm. In the hotrodder world, hiding batteries is almost considered a necessity along the lines of tires, fuel, and an unreliable motor that sounds good.
I have this nice little space
where I could put two batteries on their side. I've already got 3/16" stainless-steel plate that is going to be the skid plate going underneath it.
So the question is: would the disadvantages associated with hard-to-access be overcome by the advantages of freeing up engine space, lower CG, making them nearly theft-proof, and the ability to actually run larger (think 78s or even forklift batteries) be enough? I'm interested in your thoughts. Of course, the proper safety devices would be in place to guarantee no battery-related fire (true disconnect, high-amp fuses that are close to the batteries and solid battery boxes).... and there would be a jump-connection in a reasonably accessible spot.
When I first saw that space I thought it'd be a cool spot for them - but it's not a traditional place - so maybe there's some reason I'm just not seeing for putting them up front...
I have this nice little space
where I could put two batteries on their side. I've already got 3/16" stainless-steel plate that is going to be the skid plate going underneath it.
So the question is: would the disadvantages associated with hard-to-access be overcome by the advantages of freeing up engine space, lower CG, making them nearly theft-proof, and the ability to actually run larger (think 78s or even forklift batteries) be enough? I'm interested in your thoughts. Of course, the proper safety devices would be in place to guarantee no battery-related fire (true disconnect, high-amp fuses that are close to the batteries and solid battery boxes).... and there would be a jump-connection in a reasonably accessible spot.
When I first saw that space I thought it'd be a cool spot for them - but it's not a traditional place - so maybe there's some reason I'm just not seeing for putting them up front...
47coeman
Love those 45's
I am with you as I graduated from hot rodding of 50 years. Had a samurai that I put a battery behind the seats under the floor with access door. Worked out great and left the engine compartment a lot cleaner. Go for it maybe you can start a new fad.
Looking good bud!