LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
He has a 3FE. Isn't the wiring harness at the EGR pipe a 1FZ-FE issue?
EFI Relay problems from hell (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Randoliof
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He has a 3FE. Isn't the wiring harness at the EGR pipe a 1FZ-FE issue?
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The 3FE runs the same with or without EGR so I wouldn't suspect that.
If you are not blowing fuses it is not likely you have a short circuit but an intermittent open one. Bad ground or a hidden break at an old dried up connector. You don't need to drop the tank to check the fuel pump.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-replace-your-fuel-sock-filter.488375/
Just a wild guess here but it sounds like something with a bit more mass than a single loose wire. Is your wiring harness tied down so it isn't bouncing around? If your harness has any long unsecured stretches I would check wires exiting from that section for bad and brittle connectors.
There are very few wires and pieces of machinery running that fuel system. Use the FSM and systematically check each one. Don't jump from one thing to another. If you suspect the wiring to the fuel pump don't just look for an open or shorted wire, run separate power and ground wires from the pump to the front where applicable, drive around the neighborhood, hit a few speed bumps or curbs see if it stops, if not go to the next thing on the list. Rinse - repeat as needed.
Also don't assume anything. I read over and over again that the poster knows that this piece or that piece of equipment is good because it was just replaced. Or that someone checked a circuit and it had 12v or continuity; that is a road that leads to nothing good (or three expensive flatbed tows and one 180 mile white knuckle rope tow across Eastern Washington, who knew that a '91 FJ80 could pull a fully loaded Ford Ranger at 80 mph for nearly three hours) , or that they know how to use their multimeter. Do EXACTLY as the "experienced" Mudders suggest. If you don't know who those folks are, you haven't read enough old posts yet.
Just for fun back to the MAF or as someone pointed out in another thread that on the '91 and '92 it is a VAF. A sticky flap in the VAF can cause the fuel pump to shut down if it sticks closed. In my '92 all I did was tilt it back to change the air filter and it locked up solid. Took me over half an hour spraying with liquid wrench and wiggling it back and forth to get it to swing free again. It should swing very free, the only resistance you should feel is the spring. Oh! make sure you don't take out the two screws to remove the connector, there is a little spring clip holding it on you release instead. Many a Mudder has come to grief yanking the guts out of their VAF after removing the screws.
I asked these diagnostic questions earlier and never saw a response, so I will ask again.
"What is the condition of the distributor cap and rotor?
You need to verify spark during the next no-start condition. This is either fuel delivery related or ignition related. You need to eliminate 1 possibility."
"What is the condition of the distributor cap and rotor?
You need to verify spark during the next no-start condition. This is either fuel delivery related or ignition related. You need to eliminate 1 possibility."
- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks for the info. It may be later this week until I can check everything; I already took one day of leave troubleshooting this s***, so I'll be trying to get to it in the afternoon.
I did clean the MAF a couple weeks ago. I replaced all the spark plugs, did an oil change, etc. The MAF was pretty dirty, but the flap seemed operational, and had good spring tension.
What do you mean by VAF, by the way?
I did clean the MAF a couple weeks ago. I replaced all the spark plugs, did an oil change, etc. The MAF was pretty dirty, but the flap seemed operational, and had good spring tension.
What do you mean by VAF, by the way?
What Claudia was referring to is the wiring harness that runs across the EGR pipe on a 1FZ-FE motor. It has a tendency to burn through causing all sorts of woe and strife. This harness issue is not a concern on a 3FE motor.
- Thread starter
- #27
Jon, sorry I forgot to reply. The distributor and rotor seem to be in good condition. Not exactly sure what I'm looking for, to be honest, but physically, after pulling the wires and the cap, it looks good. Like I said, when it starts, it seems to run fine. What exactly should I be looking for?
Once again, sorry I didn't reply. I'm in the Air Force, and we had an airshow at my base this weekend, so I was dealing with that on top of dealing with the truck.
The 3FE has an air flow meter (AFM) not a mass air flow sensor (MAF). While they are similar, they are not the same thing.
Exactly how did you clean the AFM?
Have you tried bypassing the fuel pump logic yet?
- Thread starter
- #29
I used MAF sensor cleaner. Didn't take it apart.
And no, I have to do that this afternoon, and I'll get back to you. On top of everything else, I got a flat tire on my patient, long suffering girlfriend's car, and had to track down a new tire yesterday. Didn't give me much time to work on the cruiser.
It's at a friend's shop, I'll head there after work and let you know what happens. Thanks for the advice, btw
And no, I have to do that this afternoon, and I'll get back to you. On top of everything else, I got a flat tire on my patient, long suffering girlfriend's car, and had to track down a new tire yesterday. Didn't give me much time to work on the cruiser.
It's at a friend's shop, I'll head there after work and let you know what happens. Thanks for the advice, btw
Copy that. I'm just shooting from the hip here. I have had RIDICULOUS hard starts caused by the center button of the cap being worn down to a nub. We (I) sometimes ignore the most basic stuff and assume it's something more sinister by default.
- Thread starter
- #31
I'll check again; like I said, airshow, + all my bad luck this weekend, I was a little distracted, and ready to drive the cruiser (if it started!) off a cliff.
I'll post results this afternoon
Don't get all dramatic
Your truck is 25 years old with what appears to be a questionable maintenance history. There's going to be some issues.
- Thread starter
- #33
Don't get all dramatic
Your truck is 25 years old with what appears to be a questionable maintenance history. There's going to be some issues.
Yeah. I guess I'm the third owner. The last owner only drove it a couple times a year to go camping, hunting etc. Then I bought it and started daily driving it about three months ago. So I kind brought this upon myself. Lol
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Yes. Been there. Done that. Happened all of a sudden about 6 years ago. It was about 15 degrees and blizzarding. I happened to be by an Autozone. I started with the distributor cap. Opened it up and it "looked worn down". So I bought a Duralast one at Autozone for like $15. Put it on and it fired up. Then ordered an OEM one. Compared the two then slapped myself for neglecting this for so long.
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Did you look inside the distributor cap? They can get gross sometimes and cause issues.
If your AFM was dirty your air filter is/was/has been shot. Between my '91 and '92 together they have well over a half million miles and the AFM was clean on both of them.
VAF
Vane Air Flow Sensor
http://www.aa1car.com/library/vaf_sensors.htm
The one in the FJ80's is licensed from Bosch. I guess Toyota calls it an AFM. Don't know for sure but I am guessing that just like the A/C compressor and some other parts, that you could pull one off of an old Mercedes, BMW, Audi and even certain american cars and make it work.
Did your fuel problems start before or after your PM session?
- Thread starter
- #40
It's not a fuel issue, after all. The IGT circuit out of the computer isn't getting voltage. Voltage in the computer, voltage out is intermittent.
Trying to find an affordable computer now.
