cracked head??? (1 Viewer)

[jkl72-40]

82 Toyota 22r motor 230k on it. It's losing compression in the 2 front cylinders (leak down test) more than likely cracked head?? If so am I good just having the head redone or will that be hard on the bottom half? It does not blow any smoke at all.
What do you guys say from history of mud. my thought is just do the head see what happens if it's good then fine if not rebuild it.
Kyle

 

[KLF]

The beauty of the leakdown test is it tells you where the problem is. Where is the compressed air leaking off to?

Out the intake = leaky intake valves
Out the exhaust = leaky exhaust valves
Out the crankcase = worn rings
Out the cooling system = leaking HG

 

[pappy]

The beauty of the leakdown test is it tells you where the problem is. Where is the compressed air leaking off to?

Out the cooling system = leaking HG

Not always. When my HG blew on my 2FE it was in the short gap between two cylinders and only leaked between the two, not into a coolant passage. Not sure what that would have sounded like, but compression on those cylinders was near nothing.

 

[snobdds]

I don't hear of too many cracked cylinder heads unless the truck severely overheated. You know the head has to come off regardless, so that will be the only way to determine the failure, hopefully just a blown head gasket. If the rings are gone then it's full rebuild time. I use to not believe anything about putting a new top end on a old bottom end with no issues. I put a new head and timing kit on a 22re with 200,000 miles. At 220,000 I spun a bearing. Now is that coincidence, I don't know. I want to believe so.

The beauty of the 22r is the head can be removed in about 2 hours. A new head is also pretty cheap, if needed.

 

[KLF]

Not always. When my HG blew on my 2FE it was in the short gap between two cylinders and only leaked between the two, not into a coolant passage. Not sure what that would have sounded like, but compression on those cylinders was near nothing.

True. But my point is that if you remove the radiator cap prior to the test, and then put air to the cylinder and get a geyser out the radiator, then you know the HG is leaking, and on what cylinder.

 

[jkl72-40]

1 and 2

 

[jkl72-40]

also any link as to the pulling of the head andwhat is involved? Ive done the timing chain just never done the head.

 

[Toast]

If you search, there are tons of threads. In a nutshell, this is the order I would remove things;
First put your engine on #1 TDC
1.Radiator, hoses, belts
2.Misc things like throttle cable, vacuum lines, fuel lines. Basically anything that looks connected.
3.power steering pump and bracket.
4. A/C pump and bracket. Try not to disconnect your lines. (Yes it is possible)
5. Fan clutch w/ fan. It's just easier when it's out of the way.
6. Exhaust down pipe. Unbolt it at the bell housing and at the manifold. Easier to work with it.
7. Smog pipes that bolt to the manifold and behind the block.
8. Exhaust manifold. Have replacement studs on hand.
9. Valve cover.
10. Cam gear.
11. Hidden bolt below cam gear.
12. Head bolts in correct order.
13. Make sure everything is removed at this point. Ground wire on back of block always gets me. Hoses, wires, ect. Look, look, look.
14. Zip tie cam gear. As to not skip a tooth.
15. Pull head, put on bench and remove intake manifold while on a bench. (So much easier this way)

I'm sure I forgot something and I'm sure a hundred people can't wait to tell me what I forgot but I'm not perfect. Also some might say you don't have to remove all the things I listed but I have taken a 22r head off soooo many times that it's just easier to work around with less stuff in your way. Idk just my .02. Enjoy

 

[Infamous82]

And yes it is fine just to replace the head. I've done a headgasket with nothing more than sending the head to cylinder head service to be tested and planed and put thousands of miles on with no problems.

 

[Mudder]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...asket-everything-else-while-you-re-build.html

 

[jkl72-40]

ok thanks