It's a Jeep Thang :flipoff2: (1 Viewer)

[Delancy]

Doubted I'd elicit viable input in the forum specific, since there's not many that are chopping on these here, yet, so will have a go here.

Plan to build the HZJ73 into a streetable, but more dedicated rock donkey, which is an extensive transformation, but asking about one aspect of in this thread, being hi clearance cuts, inner fender fabrication, rear gate conversion, with function and form equally considered.

The Cruiser

After other failures, taking a different approach on this, and starting at full bump, cutting anything that impedes wheel travel out of the way.

The 70 bodies are kinda like 40s, as they sit high on the frame, the pic above illustrating as the rear axle is ~1" from bump, front at full bump (springs are shot) and 37s damn near fit the wells.

Short of it is, running 80 width axles which will sit similarly to Carl's.

Pushing the front forward 3-4", depending on steering box selection, rear back 4", where the tire patch is nearly in line with the body.

So, why the title?

Because, as usual, the marketplace is larger and many of the products achieve what I think I'm trying to, this being the focus, right now.

Can't find a good way to cut the front lower fenders where it opens up enough and doesn't look like chit, so have been considering complete removal of.

Then fabbing up "hi lines" with, or in conjunction with, new inners that completely open up wells, ala "Jeep Thang"

These are touted as armor, which I'd hate to see what they protect from, since the inside of wheel on the 73 will be nearly in line with, but the thicker material may be the only way to fab, I dunno.

Obvious issue is legality for on road, but not really a concern in the local realm and, since I'm thinking it'll become a minimalistic soft top, would prolly be drug to distant events, anyway.

What else am I missing, or what am I missing considering that I might miss the missing fenders, later on?

 

[Delancy]

Rear is a different animal, altogether.....

Tank is gonna have to be moved above the frame rails, and fuel filler will have to reroute. Since diesel, needs to be outside of the cargo bay.

Fabbing inners and/or cutting the outers doesn't appear to challenge a good fabricator much, but "hi lining" or, in Cruiserdom, comp cutting looks to be a PITA, one that won't look right.

As far back as possible, before the fillet of lower quarter/lights become issues:

What I think would be more effective, is comp cutting, moving lights to bumper, and fashioning up a single gate or fixed gate.

Narrowing the rear would be a nightmare, because of the intentions and rolls in body panels, but don't know how else one would terminate it all, like a flat panelled tub.

Input?

 

[White Stripe]

If you are going to do that much work, I would not only make the wheel wells bigger, but also raise the wheel well to that upper body line right above the door handle. That way you can fit bit tires and keep COG very low which is a huge asset off road. You could keep the front fenders and just raise them up to the same upper body line. It would still look like a 70 series and not some hacked up montero, and would perform awesome.

 

[J Mack]

I like where Kula is going with his similar build (40 body on an 80 frame)

His front fenders cover the width and look correct, I would think your body would accept something similar.

Again the rear is very similar to your 70 and I like the way he finished it off.

My problem with most of the pictures you linked is it looks like the only tool they own is a sawsall or hatchet and they don’t have the refined “streetable, but more dedicated rock donkey” look, they look more like “dedicated rock donkey”.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Chris, I've thought about this a little since we spoke last. What if you cut a "wedge" (in yellow) out of the flare and bring it in. The wedge can be cut and you can keep the factory rolled outer edge. You could make this as tight as you wanted or by simply cutting the top of the rolled edge and place it next to the apron. This would keep the Yota lines and give you a 1-2" flare off the apron so to speak..

Then open the wheel well up (in green) to your liking. Like @J Mack says.. most guys just sawzall the hell out of it and IMO as well looks like chit. So.... Cut the well opening and cut .75-1" slots in the panel. Bend them inward, weld up and massage to give a more OE fit and finish.

Jason

 

[cruiserdan]

PLEASE do not chop up that very nice FRP top. Below that I don't care.

 

[Delancy]

If you are going to do that much work, I would not only make the wheel wells bigger, but also raise the wheel well to that upper body line right above the door handle.

Cutting above the lower bend in the body line doesn't net much. Could fit 39s with the frame sitting on the axles as it is.

Running 80 width Ruffstuff housings, linked, so it may be a different story and may need to go higher, but don't see much gain in it, yet.

That way you can fit bit tires and keep COG very low which is a huge asset off road.

Agreed.....having paid a dear price for thinking otherwise, a year ago almost to the day.

You could keep the front fenders and just raise them up to the same upper body line. It would still look like a 70 series and not some hacked up montero, and would perform awesome.

Hmmm....

I like where Kula is going with his similar build (40 body on an 80 frame)

I love what he's doing, having admired the 43s for some time, which is why I'm thinking this may be a good start.

BUT.....if it goes down, it'll be all show and no (off-road) go...

I
His front fenders cover the width and look correct, I would think your body would accept something similar.

Have seen a few extend-a-flares for the 7Xs and not appealing, because of the body shape. With the wide 80 axles, they'd have to be diving boards to do any good.

You think a fender-less look is a no go?

Another thought was an LJ front, which is wider, to begin with.

Again the rear is very similar to your 70 and I like the way he finished it off.

Kinda similar to what I originally thought, but would like to push the rear back as far as possible, which the corner metal may impede.

That would be simpler and could keep rear functioning doors, but without monster meats like Kula is running, don't know if it's be enough to not drag the ass end around everywhere.

Pic does show better why the full comp cut doesn't work with the body lines of the 7Xs, but does with 40s.

A lot easier to taper the tailgate on a flat surface than a bent and rounded.

I
My problem with most of the pictures you linked is it looks like the only tool they own is a sawsall or hatchet and they don’t have the refined “streetable, but more dedicated rock donkey” look, they look more like “dedicated rock donkey”.

There's just not a lot of people that've cut them up, I guess, but do not want it to look shade tree, in quality or the actual cut lines.

What if you cut a "wedge" (in yellow) out of the flare and bring it in. The wedge can be cut and you can keep the factory rolled outer edge.

Have gone through four rolls of tape and spent hours on photoshop, but can't seem to fully visualize how best to cut the fenders.

(Hunting pics)

Still think fabbing new would provide a better finish, once it is determined, but the fender less look is growing.

You could make this as tight as you wanted or by simply cutting the top of the rolled edge and place it next to the apron. This would keep the Yota lines and give you a 1-2" flare off the apron so to speak..

Glad I've a spare front end to practice on.

Then open the wheel well up (in green) to your liking. Like @J Mack says.. most guys just sawzall the hell out of it and IMO as well looks like chit.

Don't worry, 'cause that ain't gonna happen.

Form and function.

PLEASE do not chop up that very nice FRP top. Below that I don't care.

You've my word on the top, nor will I chop up the front or rear removable top doors, or even the rust free fenders.

I've gone rounds over keeping the doors, but not keeping the cabrio, prolly gating the rear, and have two full sets of front and rear doors to chop up however seen fit.

That said, the textured paint on the top conceals a lot of age, as it's not in near as good of condition as one might think, BUT prolly worth some money and I can use on the rest.

 

[Delancy]

Just can't see a cleaner way to approach, than something along the lines of the jeep fender.

 

[Flipper1938]

 

[J Mack]

Have seen a few extend-a-flares for the 7Xs and not appealing, because of the body shape. With the wide 80 axles, they'd have to be diving boards to do any good.

You think a fender-less look is a no go?

There's just not a lot of people that've cut them up, I guess, but do not want it to look shade tree, in quality or the actual cut lines.

I think something not much wider than the original body but built from tubing and sheet metal to complement the body and accommodate the larger tire is possible without looking like diving boards. Looking at Kula’s rig his fenders don’t come anyway near the outer edge of his tires but still just look right on his rig.

If you lived closer I would build you some in a weekend for beer and barbeque just to keep you from looking like a flat billed 20 something in your chopped up mall cruiser.

 

[GW Nugget]

That fender looks close to a 55 fender.

I also like this, but leave the rear part for fill.

 

[Delancy]

If you lived closer I would build you some in a weekend for beer and barbeque just to keep you from looking like a flat billed 20 something in your chopped up mall cruiser.

Bahahahahahahahaha.

I can throw down with the best of 'em when it comes to Q and getting 23-25mpgs with the 1HZ, so if the offer stands...

It can prove difficult to relay idears, in person, with illustrative tools on hand, and promise mine aren't flat billed style or looking like a 4 Wheel Parts catalogue.

That fender looks close to a 55 fender.

Pigs are the grumpy grandmas to the J7Xs, there's no doubt.

I also like this, but leave the rear part for fill.

That's what I was thinking, if I failed to describe, but to clean it up, cutting out what'd remain of the lower protrusion, and patching in a flat.

I suck with Photochop, although I haven't spent time with since taking many pics with the blue tape as the color differentiater to cut and fill with.

Nice job!!

2" forward on the front puts the meat right at the edge of the front crossmember, which will have to cut, but thinking will remain for a sway bar housing.

With these lines, nothing hinders and it looks clean.

(I am keeping the "X-clusive" emblem. )

 

[Delancy]

Moar food for thought, that I'm munching on....

The cabrio is tight to the noggin, already, and tubing under isn't going to work.

There is a crossbar from the cabrio to the windshield, just like a 40 and windshield knobs are in the same spot.

Thinking about pulling cabrio, removing the crossbar, and relocating the windshield knob to the top of windshield frame (supported by cage).

Building B pillars within the same area the cabrio takes up, similarly (in function, not form) to this.

Windshield support and knob relocated (again, only pics I can find)

Which frees up to tuck the a pillar tight to front kick panel.

(Either that, or fix the windshield..)

Convert to a soft top if the hard top doesn't work with tube.

 

[Mace]

This looks too much like a sammy..
IMHO. pull the front fenders in as Jason suggested.

 

[Delancy]

This looks too much like a sammy..
IMHO. pull the front fenders in as Jason suggested.

@reevesci

Do you think it'd be possible to cut and fab outers, as well the inners, like you described, but following the high line, like @Flipper1938's pic (which I just saw the cut and paste)

If you had the inners, outers, radiator support, only?

Have a donor 70 body, reason posed.

 

[Flipper1938]

@reevesci

Do you think it'd be possible to cut and fab outers, as well the inners, like you described, but following the high line, like @Flipper1938's pic (which I just saw the cut and paste)

View attachment 1114736

If you had the inners, outers, radiator support, only?

Have a donor 70 body, reason posed.

When I did the cut and paste, the rear corner is a mirror of the front corner. So, if you had donor fenders, you could take a driver's side front corner and use it to trim out the passenger side rear. If you like to cut and weld, It seems doable to me.

 

[Delancy]

When I did the cut and paste, the rear corner is a mirror of the front corner.

Pics?

So, if you had donor fenders, you could take a driver's side front corner and use it to trim out the passenger side rear.

What had been discussed, initially, if comp cutting, but difficult to visualize.

If you like to cut and weld, It seems doable to me.

Problem is, my expectations exceed capabilities, by a long ass country mile.

Thick, flat plate, is one thing, but sheet metal isn't my forte.

 

[Delancy]

Had to fix a gate at the facility. Delancy's Law that it's Sunday evening or on out of town when things fail.

Anyhow, took a couple of pics between sauna sessions in the baking, west sun...

 

[Delancy]

Inners will have to be fabbed to fit, best I can tell. Rework a battery mount and filter can is the extent of anything complex that'd have to mount to them.

Flatten out the protrusion here:

And raising with a roll to the higher line sounds good, especially if it could be close to this clean at the transition.

As far as I know, the newer front end will fit the older firewall, but prolly cheaper to one off out of titanium than to acquire, THEN cut the wells out of it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]