Rear Full Float Axle - Inner Shaft Seal Question (1 Viewer)

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Dec 17, 2009
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MN
I just went through all the bearings and seals rebuilding my rear AU floating axle.
Putting the hubs/bearings/seals on went good, used AMSOIL EP Syn grease for all bearings, new hub seal. All components had been sandblasted, cleaned and gone through (looking to do hopefully a resto that will make it like new).
After preloading the hub bearings, loosening, retightening..the hubs turn good (but the new hub seal adds some friction).
My question is on the inner shaft seal. I pre-lubed this and placed it in the housing. My worry is where I placed it. I pushed it to the taper of its recess (in as far as it would go). I placed my axles in, gaskets on, sealed it. As I seated the axle, the last 1/4" or so I tapped it in and as the cones and nuts pulled it the rest of the way in.
My first turn of the axle was pretty tight. now as I turn the axle, I feel a tight area in a spot of the rotation.
Should I have put the seal on the axle and then let that slid into the housing?? Could the tight spot I feel be the axle seal catching? The hub bearings/seals rotated nice.
 
not likely that tight spot is the seal.
what did the stub end on the housing look like, the section where the wheel bearings ride? if it ever saw loose wheel bearings, it would be possible to spin a bearing on the housing side.
 
Puzzled as to how you think you could install it by putting it on the axle first:
WheelBearings15.jpg

It is a "light press fit" inside the stub axle and only the lips touch the axle.

WheelBearings11.jpg


I suspect your seal is the wrong size if it is affecting ease-of-rotation even in the slightest way.

:beer:
 
if your rotating the hub with the axle in you'll also be rotating the spider gears in the diff and possibly the C&P if the other axle is in so assuming the hub spun freely before the axle went in any resistance your feeling would come from the diff
 
Thanks Guys,
The spindles were in good shape, no signs of a spun race. I replaced all hub races/bearings, seal on back plate/hub and inner shaft seals. All Seals were greased and mating surfaces. As I did the pre-load and then set the lock collars, the hubs turned without the tight spot (the new seals on the back of the hubs added a little drag). So I think the spindles/bearings are ok.
I did also put in a Aussie Locker, so I did go through the diff as well. in checking that out, I spun it many times and even placed the axle in enough to be able to test the ratchet (did not have inner seals in) and did not notice any tight spots.
it was actually when I pulled the axles in the last 1/4 inch and tightened the flange to the hub that I noticed everything got tighter.
When I put the inner seals in, I took care to grease and press in straight (used a bearing/seal driver to push it in). I did push it in until it stopped (basically by hand or little tapping, but no force). so I thought this would be correct, but that inner stop has a slight taper to it and didn't know if that would close the seal somewhat.
I went ahead and put the axle, springs and have it mounted to the frame now. As I wheeled the axle around it seemed to move free, but I will jack this up and most likely pull it apart again to make sure everything is good. Last thing I want with a new rebuild is bad bearings or seals.

Thanks Tom for the pictures, etc., being the same truck, its nice having you guys out there when some of the AU and Diesel stuff arises.
As I keep saying, I will get a build page going with some pictures. I travel for a living so the process has some long gaps.
 

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