Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe (4 Viewers)

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As for the shades, think you are referring to @dirtEJohnson's truck. Mine was a large sunshade I purchased from Costco (multi-pack) and it fits just fine.

Oops you're right... And the blacking out thing is a little funny. Sucks none-the-less. I've hit my head too many times.

Ya, Greg sorry I cluttered up your thread with pictures of my junk. I should know better.

Well I've got questions about your junk if you wouldn't mind answering. :D

Where did you get the windshield sunscreens?
 
Ya, Greg sorry I cluttered up your thread with pictures of my junk. I should know better.

No worries dude your stuff was helpful.. it is appreciated!
 
If the engine is bogging on the hills but not on the flats (when you push it) then I'm thinking it's a carburetor or fuel pump issue.

Yeah I have been thinking about doing a rebuild on the carb because I know that I am running a bit rich, the fuel pump is a different story as other than checking it for weeping I would not know how to troubleshoot. Guess I got to pull out the FSM and see what it says, man one of these day I need to print the damn thing out.
 
Question for everyone... is the lower valence under the radiator able to be taken off without removing the front bumper? Noticed that I have some bubbling starting and I would like to take care of it while I am working on different things. Hoping that I can start on the suspension this weekend.
 
Well today I got to start on the suspension upgrade.
Took the time to get some Rust-o-Leum Rust Reformer and cleaned up all the new springs. Didn't do each leaf just them all together.

Then started in taking everything apart. Was luck that I found some HF 6ton jack stands on sale for $39.99 for the pair!! Sweet and the work perfectly.

Got to the spring hangers and.... well.... Spring hanger 1 - Fizzy 0
They are literally so seized in there that I have burned through just about as much as I can with my little Benzomatic torch and still nothing.

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Here is one of the new SkyJacker M95 for the rear. The little sleeve to the right is actually so tight I have to hammer it on to the spring plate after I have expanded it some. Was looking to do without but there is too much movement without it. So much for them being stock fit.
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Oh yeah and a little video of the shocks that were on there!!! Think they were a little dead.
 
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Yeah those needed to be replaced MANY MILES AGO..

The lower valance has 3 bolts on each side that bolt to each fender, one to each light bucket and one in the middle (all 10mm head). IIRC, you should be able to remove the valance without removing the bumper.

BEWARE THESE BOLTS BREAK VERY EASY!! USE CAUTION

J
 
Oh and here is a question for everyone... The Skyjackers can be mounted up or down, was planning on mounting with the tube down so that it would not hit anything but wondering if that will work? Anyone had any issues with this?

Also, cheap stock size shackles? Thinking of replacing mine as it looks like some of the threads are goobered. That is unless someone knows the thread pitch and size so I can run and grab a die to clean them up.
 
Yeah those needed to be replaced MANY MILES AGO..

The lower valance has 3 bolts on each side that bolt to each fender, one to each light bucket and one in the middle (all 10mm head). IIRC, you should be able to remove the valance without removing the bumper.

BEWARE THESE BOLTS BREAK VERY EASY!! USE CAUTION

J


Sweet thanks J (@reevesci)... any chance you know size/thread pitch of bolts? If the are 10mm thinking they are probably M10x1.25 (standard for lots of stuff).
 
PB blaster on any fasteners you plan to remove, dunno if that would help on the spring pins, but high heat and BFH as others have noted. You will be happy when its done!
 
Oh and here is a question for everyone... The Skyjackers can be mounted up or down, was planning on mounting with the tube down so that it would not hit anything but wondering if that will work? Anyone had any issues with this?

Also, cheap stock size shackles? Thinking of replacing mine as it looks like some of the threads are goobered. That is unless someone knows the thread pitch and size so I can run and grab a die to clean them up.

Glad to see you're getting a suspension upgrade. Looks like it should be a big improvement.

My thought would be to mount the shocks with the large portion/ reservoir on top - skinny portion on bottom. If mounted the other way I've heard that water/ mud can sit on there and shorten the life of the seals.

Sorry if I miised it - are you pulling the spring packs too? This was a tough job for me when I did mine AAL's a couple years ago. I found that using a two jaw puller to push out the shackle bolts worked best for me rather than trying to burn the bushings out or whaling on them with a BFH (this method will all but insure you're buying new shackle bolts). I drilled a shallow hole on the end of each bolt to keep the puller centered and this worked well. Oh, and lots of PB Blaster.

Good luck!
 
Yeah I have been hitting everything with PB Blaster for the last couple of weeks but sounds like the hangers are the worst no matter what. Got new hangers on order since I mushroomed the head of the one I have been whaling on with my BFH. Just going to cut them now with a cut-off wheel. Springs are new to me with AAL already added so just swapping springs.
 
Well just said screw it and found stock sized shackles from SOR for a decent price. Went ahead and ordered those along with a M14x1.50 die to clean up the old shackles so I can sell them.

New SOR shackles are greaseable just like the spring hangers coming from Man-a-Fre, question is what type of grease to use in them and is there such thing as a decent, cheap small grease gun for these types of items (e.g. Shackles, u-joints, etc.).?
 
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the shackles dont get hot so every grease is fine I think, I like the high pressure grease guns because they force the dirt out.
When the shackle is overfilled it just leaves a big pile of grease on the spring.

You can hear the fat crackle when it is forced out (especially for the driveshaft joints)
Fot the birfs it does not make sense to use force (never overfill birfs and would only pass the seal into the diffoil)


I use three grease pumps:
one filled with lithium grease for the axles/drive shaft
one filled with 130C high temp grease for the birfields, fill trough (modified) zirc found above (near steering rod)
one small pushpump with lithium for the inner axle/drive shaft as a normal pump is a few mm to thick to acess the zirc.

Ideal MUST have for the axles, this one really does the trick and pushes dirt away MUST HAVE!!
2500 pounds per square inch = 172 bar!
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Ok so basically you keep three guns around for different items. Two of them are for axles/driveshaft/suspension the other is for birfs.

Sounds like a lithium based grease is recommended for the axles/joints/suspension that is probably marine (aka water resistant) based?
And @hj 60 where do I find a small grease gun like that? Something I can find at a normal Auto Parts store or special order through amazon/ebay/etc.
 
If you just buy one push gun that is enough for axles and suspension, maybe you dont have the zerc on the birf?

axles (driveshaft) is prio1 especially after water crossing and the suspension maybe once a year? (never had problems and grease cannot flush like it does in axle, if you grease the suspension you will see the old fat pressed out and looks new after a few months)
The driveshaft has a lot of force and heat so that is more important I think, that fat ages quicker (thick, nasty color, dries up)

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...grease+gun.TRS0&_nkw=push+grease+gun&_sacat=0
 
Wow ok literally took a minute to cut through the pins with a cutoff wheel. Took me longer to setup than it did to cut them out.

Oh and Old Spring vs. New Spring.
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