Personally, I always pull the positive terminal, but for this repair the battery will be removed anyway.
I would completely replace the alternator cable.
I would completely replace the alternator cable.
Need Help Diagnosis (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Sparrow777
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- Thread starter
- #222
Omg y'all of course the battery came out first. Lol.
I made some calls and searched online, but the wiring is discontinued. That's what everyone says. Plus it cost 700$ when they did make it? Why can't I just buy the same gauge wire and document the colors so I don't forget where each goes?
I ended up repairing what I've got--very neatly and carefully. I searched around more and found bare wire everywhere. I wrapped everything in electrical tape.
I put the battery on a charger, and it started right up. I could tell immediately it didn't sound right. The CEL, brake, battery, and a/t oil lights still on. Same code as before--"normal"
I didn't take it on the road, I did not feel confidant enough. I drove it up and down the driveway instead, listening, ect. So the RPM needle on the dash went up to 1000 and stuck there. It did move normal at first, but at some point it stuck. The power lagged and surged, didn't respond correctly to the pedal. I also heard a light "putt putt" in the engine bay. The way i ran just sounded off. Maybe too much vibration too? Not sure on that. After I turned off the engine, the engine bay area felt too hot as well, for only running a few minutes. I could be wrong-just paranoid. But, there was a burned smell
very slight and not obviously electric, oil, ect. More on the PS, maybe behind/underneath air filter area.
I tried the multimeter on the battery, and the numbers increased with revving.
One of the first things I did was reconnect some wires and small vacuum hoses that the shady mechanic left off. It seemed obvious where they went. Maybe I was wrong, and crossed something.
This is getting old and I feel like it would take 2 seconds for an experienced person to figure this out. Thus, I will try to get a Houston club person over--there's supposed to be a few in the area.
I made some calls and searched online, but the wiring is discontinued. That's what everyone says. Plus it cost 700$ when they did make it? Why can't I just buy the same gauge wire and document the colors so I don't forget where each goes?
I ended up repairing what I've got--very neatly and carefully. I searched around more and found bare wire everywhere. I wrapped everything in electrical tape.
I put the battery on a charger, and it started right up. I could tell immediately it didn't sound right. The CEL, brake, battery, and a/t oil lights still on. Same code as before--"normal"
I didn't take it on the road, I did not feel confidant enough. I drove it up and down the driveway instead, listening, ect. So the RPM needle on the dash went up to 1000 and stuck there. It did move normal at first, but at some point it stuck. The power lagged and surged, didn't respond correctly to the pedal. I also heard a light "putt putt" in the engine bay. The way i ran just sounded off. Maybe too much vibration too? Not sure on that. After I turned off the engine, the engine bay area felt too hot as well, for only running a few minutes. I could be wrong-just paranoid. But, there was a burned smell
very slight and not obviously electric, oil, ect. More on the PS, maybe behind/underneath air filter area.I tried the multimeter on the battery, and the numbers increased with revving.
One of the first things I did was reconnect some wires and small vacuum hoses that the shady mechanic left off. It seemed obvious where they went. Maybe I was wrong, and crossed something.
This is getting old and I feel like it would take 2 seconds for an experienced person to figure this out. Thus, I will try to get a Houston club person over--there's supposed to be a few in the area.
Did the friend mechanic mess with the timing or distribution wires.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
It is normal for your car to idle high after disconnecting the battery. This will go away after a few times of running it for 10-15 minutes.
As for the "burned" smell...my 3FE always smells like something is burning. Oil, power steering fluid, smell bad when heated.
The 3FE gets up to temp pretty quickly. I just times mine in 80 degree temp and it took less than 3 minutes to reach "normal" which would be about 180-195 degrees. Or, HOT.
As for the "burned" smell...my 3FE always smells like something is burning. Oil, power steering fluid, smell bad when heated.
The 3FE gets up to temp pretty quickly. I just times mine in 80 degree temp and it took less than 3 minutes to reach "normal" which would be about 180-195 degrees. Or, HOT.
- Thread starter
- #225
Timing no, wires yes. They're in the right place now. I haven't checked the timing. I've never done it but I think I know what to do.
- Thread starter
- #226
It is normal for your car to idle high after disconnecting the battery. This will go away after a few times of running it for 10-15 minutes.
As for the "burned" smell...my 3FE always smells like something is burning. Oil, power steering fluid, smell bad when heated.
The 3FE gets up to temp pretty quickly. I just times mine in 80 degree temp and it took less than 3 minutes to reach "normal" which would be about 180-195 degrees. Or, HOT.
Thank you
my senses are on high alert!
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CruiseOrlando
Conveniently Enhanced
Thank you
Yeah... about that... it gets worse the more time you spend on here!
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
I don't even drive my 80 anymore. So much can go wrong.
Hahahahahahhaa
- Thread starter
- #230
Well guys....I had a bad battery. It's very embarrassing, but it was also the wrong battery. Someone stole my new battery and replaced it with another one. There was a lot going on, so I didn't catch this.
So I got another, correct battery today. But my dash lights are still showing a charging problem. (Batt light, a/t oil & brake). I used a multimeter to measure the volts while revving, and it stayed the same-- 12.54. In another thread, I read @jonheld saying if the voltage doesn't increase while the gas is pressed, the alternator isn't working. Do I have that correct?
So I got another, correct battery today. But my dash lights are still showing a charging problem. (Batt light, a/t oil & brake). I used a multimeter to measure the volts while revving, and it stayed the same-- 12.54. In another thread, I read @jonheld saying if the voltage doesn't increase while the gas is pressed, the alternator isn't working. Do I have that correct?
Unfortunately, yes that is correct. The combination of shorting out, wrong battery and cobbled wiring killed your alternator.
It could also just be the Voltage Regulator on the back of the alternator. At the OP's skill level, better to just replace the Alternator and be done with it, but it is possible to only replace the bad component. I would guess it's just a voltage regulator that is burnt "open", but it could be the brushes too I suppose. Either way, I would say replace it with an OEM unit. http://www.fjparts.com/90-92-land-cruiser-fj80-voltage-regulator-p-428.html
The 90 amp internal fan Denso unit on some 92 3FEs is field rebuildable, but the 80 amp external fan on 91 and early 92s is not.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
And remind me, you have repaired the wiring that goes by the radiator. The stuff that was burned and bare. Just want to make sure.
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- Thread starter
- #236
Good to know! Thanks ya'll!
Yes, I very carefully repaired that. & will be fully replacing it asap.
Yes, I very carefully repaired that. & will be fully replacing it asap.
- Thread starter
- #237
Only way to improve skill level is to work on it
I agree tho, for the price, effort & time involved a replacement is wise. It's at least 4yo anyway.
- Thread starter
- #238
Would be nice to put the 90 amp in, but I'll have to wait til next time
I found instructions on how to modify the 80 amp bracket for the 90 to fit. Project for another day!
Bump for an update....
- Thread starter
- #240
Yep, ordered the alternator from one of the recommended dealers & just waiting for it to come in
