The Cursed Build (1 Viewer)

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So close...

I have 2 open 4cyl diffs with 4.11s that I want gone.
 
I feel the same way Toast. And by the way more info on the clutch. My old one I couldn't spin tires for the life of me. This new one loves to spin them if I treat it like my old clutch
 
Toast, what all are you doing to that old 22re to build it up? I'm debating on pulling my one from my 89 and putting a new head on it and maybe a header since it seems to me this 84 block is having issues with the fuel injection. This one seems to have less power and so far the best MPG i've gotten is 18 while oin my old truck I was getting 18 with dual winchs and an auto transmission.
 
I've got the block at the machine shop right now. Probably gonna have it taken down .020 and put new Pistons, rings, bearings and hardware in. Rods and Pistons will be balanced as well as the crank. I'll have my head gone through. Ported and polished with new oversized valves. I'll put my torque cam in and add adjustable cam gear. Sending my injectors out to be cleaned and balanced. I'll have my throttle body honed out and my intake matched. I'm sure I'm forgetting something but you kind of get the idea.
 
Well I figured out the issue with my friends truck, it's over geared, My guess is 4.56's when stock she had 3.58's so she needs 4.11's to be close to stock. And that makes sense Toast, I'm debating on a head with a new crack from Engine bldr to swap into my 84 as i don't think carbed engines run EFi to well.
 
So I got my front 4.56 installed. Now if I turn full lock in 4 high I can make my truck come to a complete stupid and it'll start jumping for a little bit when given gas.
 
It normal. I had a brain fade about how 4wd feels on dry pavement. But I do have to agree Toast, 4.56's with 31's is great. Especially when you have a heavy flatbed and winch on your rig.
 
Well I manged to mess a valve up. She's still running and I'm hoping it'll last as I don't have time to deal with it right now
 
Hey dude I'm installing a front ifs diff today. Tips/tricks to make it go easy?
 
Just the gears or the whole assembly? I know with my SFA I made sure to put RTV after cleaning it and then lifting it up and going straight on working it up and down side to side to get it to slide into the housing.
 
So I need some input. With this valve messed up I'm either going to have to pull the head and put a new one on (looking at an engnbldr head). This engine has a new timing chain water pump oil pan gasket and does not leak what so ever. But I also have an 89 EFI motor that has a new timing chain and water pump as well. All i have to to is swap motors and it'll run great again. Do you guys think I should just swap motors or just do the head and call it good? To me I feel like the EFI motor is better for EFI verse the carbed motor but it could be just a thought as well. Any input is great.
 
Which is why I think in going to just swap engines. I mean to do a head jbhave to remove everything and an engine is just a little bit more stuff to undo
 
So I got all the bolts pulled for the engine and engine mount bolts but I can't get it to move at all. The transmission is still attached but I was just hoping to separate them since its an auto trans and I don't wanna drop it.
 
Well in about 2 weeks I'll be ordering the lift kit. Then I'll be getting some new fenders and bed lining the cab of the truck. In September I'll swap my EFI block into the truck.
 
KLF, when you put your OME lift on did you run extended break lines?
 

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