Name that smoke (1 Viewer)

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I agree about Ohming out the plugs before anything else... Seems that you drive better once warm and diesels run like poop without being glowed properly. My 2B had bad plugs and it ran like crap until warm... i thought I had to rebuild the whole fuel system... got new plugs and she started beautifully...
 
After watching your new video, I'm beginning to doubt that bad glow plugs are your problem. I'm thinking air is getting into the fuel system somehow. Has it always run like this, or is this new since you had the injector lines off? Look very carefully for fuel leaks at the fuel line connections and at the injection pump.

The reason I don't think it is glow plugs, is initially your truck starts perfect (exactly how mine does), but after a few seconds it starts running crappy. A glow plug problem would be exactly the opposite, it starts out crappy, but once the cylinders build a bit of heat it cleans up pretty quick.

Inspect the system right from filter to injector very carefully. You can see the injection pump easily from in the wheel well if you pull back the rubber mud flap in there.

Do you notice the problem is worse the longer the truck has sat? Have the seals ever been done on your pump?

Anyhow, the duraterm glow plugs are a good investment regardless, so you could swap them out just to eliminate that as a potential candidate I guess. The link I posted are the exact ones I bought.
 
For sure check the glow plugs to make sure none are dead. Then consider the following procedure before spending a lot of money on the fuel system components.

I give the fuel system a seafoam treatment in the spring after a winter of shorter colder trips generally makes it rougher and dirtier on start-up.
While the engine is hot from a good hard run, drain the fuel and any crud out of the sedimenter, and fill it with seafoam. This is also a good time to drain the PS reservoir, and add the old PS fluid and any remaining seafoam to the tank. Fill the PS reservoir with fresh ATF. Then run the engine for about two minutes to pull the seafoam into the IP and injectors, then shut it down and let it sit overnight or a couple of days if you can. Next start-up will generally be clean and crisp.

If your model does not have a sedimenter, then you can remove the fuel filter, drain and fill with seafoam and run for about half a minute to draw the seafoam into the IP and injectors.

If there is no improvement then dig deeper into the fuel system.
 
My 2h had 3 dead glow plugs the took three glows to get the engine started in summer but zero smoke. I would check compression with oil if needed to see how the engine is running.
 
Who was that at alder that gave you crap. Was it at the Aldergrove location? If you wantd check you plugs, just get a short piece of wire, a vice grip and test it off your battery. Grab the glow plug with the vice grip on its body And restit on neg and put positive to the threaded end. They should get hot in a few seconds and glow. Its pretty much a pass or fail test. Don't hold them in your hands. Well not the glowing part at least.
 
If I was the manager of that 'Alder Auto' I would be having a little tune up session with my employee... And this is the reason I don't mind paying a little extra for a specialty shop...
 
So have to ask again do you here the three clicks? A bad ecu will mimic air in the system with no power to close the return in the pump , and the test only takes well under a minute.
 
I think its low compression. In the 2nd video the extra glowing warmed the cylinders up enough to make it start smooth but there wasnt enough compression to keep it up.After a few minutes of running the cylinder gets warmed up , piston and ring expands a little , and it runs smoother.
Before you spend any more money ,do a compression test.
 
Hey Postoy, any progress? I thought of one thing you can try. Try pumping the primer on top of the filter for 2-5 minutes before starting your engine. This should push any air out if it's in there. This will prove/disprove the air/leak theory. You may get a perfect smokeless warm up.

One other thing. The surf guys claim that the capacitors on some of the ECUs go bad. I inspected mine and it was fine, but could be yours has issues. If the caps are bulging on top, I can replace them for you (I'm an electronics tech and do that sort of work regularly).
 
Why does the pump need an ecu ? What exactly does it do?

From Wikipedia:

"Developed as a new version of 2L-T, the 2L-TE features a new development used in Diesel engines at that time, the EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) system. Although Toyota used this fuel injection system in gasoline engines years before, this is among the first Diesel engines to adopt such a system. Although the basic construction is similar to a modern gasoline injector, the EFI system in 2L-TE utilize considerably higher injection pressures. The EFI system meter fuel with great precision and succeeded in increasing the engine's efficiency."
 
Hey Postoy, any progress? I thought of one thing you can try. Try pumping the primer on top of the filter for 2-5 minutes before starting your engine. This should push any air out if it's in there. This will prove/disprove the air/leak theory. You may get a perfect smokeless warm up.

One other thing. The surf guys claim that the capacitors on some of the ECUs go bad. I inspected mine and it was fine, but could be yours has issues. If the caps are bulging on top, I can replace them for you (I'm an electronics tech and do that sort of work regularly).

Hey GTS, Nothing yet. I was running a little late this morning (and it was pissing down raining) so I was not able to pump the primer for that long. I am going to try it after work today and see if it does anything. It usually smokes the most after work anyways (which I find strange), Ill report back if that makes any difference. Good idea! Also this weekend I will pull the ECU and inspect the capacitors, in saying that I am going to PM about another electrical issue I might want to "contract" you for (lol).
 
I think its low compression. In the 2nd video the extra glowing warmed the cylinders up enough to make it start smooth but there wasnt enough compression to keep it up.After a few minutes of running the cylinder gets warmed up , piston and ring expands a little , and it runs smoother.
Before you spend any more money ,do a compression test.

Your scaring me man! I am going to get my hands on a diesel compression tester (if I can find one) or buy one (found some inexpensive ones online) and test it... If this thing is on its was out i might have to start looking for engine options... either a 1uz-fe or Ive thought about what it would take to put a om 617 in er! I'm really not interested in rebuilding the 2lte... and finding a replacement will most likely cost more then either of those swaps.
 
So have to ask again do you here the three clicks? A bad ecu will mimic air in the system with no power to close the return in the pump , and the test only takes well under a minute.

How do I perform this test? I think I only hear 2 clicks? But I can never start this truck by the factory set up. It seems to always needs me to over ride it with the wilson switch (manual glow plug switch) that the PO installed.
 
Personally I think the chances of low compression are pretty slim; don't stress out too much yet. You can get a diesel compression tester at princess auto. I have no idea if it's any good or not.

How long do you glow it with the wilson switch? Should only take about 20sec max. Don't glow it too long, or the plugs will bulge at the end and the tips will break off when you try to change them out.
 
The click the way i understand how it works ,that you want to hear comes from the left side foot area. It takes about 15-20 seconds after the ign is turned on. And it is the loudest click by far. Basically without that power to the pump the fuel spill ring is open so it essentially is not pressuring properly because its in the return position. Again im not a mechanic or an electrical guy, as a matter of fact I've never even owned one of these but i have heard a few whore stories on these things and after all said and done it was an ecu issue
. The return fuel on any pump is an area that is underlooked by most .
 
Postoy , Hope this ended up being a simple fix , curious what was up , so others can learn from this thread. If it is total right off , i see there is a guy that has posted above about bringing in Korean biult non turbo mercedes spec diesels in for cheap that you might be interested in .
 
Hey Guys, Truck is still doing it. I have been a bit side tracked with a possible house purchase/working on our place making it sell worthy. I am going to order glow plugs first and see how that plays out. I really appreciate everyone's input!
 

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