Nothing in mine. They looked slightly squished too.
Target carrier (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter J Mack
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Interesting, so the later models have the spacer. Maybe just put a nut in there and run the bolt through it.
- Thread starter
- #783
Not the answer I was hoping for but thank you for taking the time to confirm.
I was thinking about doing something similar but now I'm going to take a second look at it to try to determine why Toyota did this, they went to a lot of effort to make the bolts a pain in the butt to tighten and I have a hard time believing their only reason to spot weld extra pieces was to piss me off 40 years after the fact..
Nothing on the exploded diagram...
- Thread starter
- #786
Thank you Boots4,
Your build is one of the only reason I get into the hard core section, thanks for the detailed build thread it has been a great help..
- Thread starter
- #787
Just about the time I was thinking I was getting close to the back side of this project I’ve been doing the angry pig shuffle for the last three weeks, you know the one it’s like the two step but five steps back for every one forward.
Relocating my front spring hanger to the top of the frame, don’t know if it’s a good idea or not but after doing the math I need a 6” min shackle to make the angles work and it’s not an option with the stock spring hanger. Wish I would have taken the time to work through this before paint but here I am cutting and grinding again.
Handy little calculator for working on shackle angle. http://www.saltire.com/HTML5/Triangles/Triangle Given 3 Sides.html
Spent five days sandblasting an early hood and started repairing rust when I decided to see if it fits to hole, as luck would have it after two days of screwing around the hood is ½” out of square and my front is within 1/8” of square in the opposite direction making it 5/8” out of square on my rig. Paint is on hold until I find a new hood so I’ll keep busy with some other stuff and keep my fingers crossed I find something soon.
Relocating my front spring hanger to the top of the frame, don’t know if it’s a good idea or not but after doing the math I need a 6” min shackle to make the angles work and it’s not an option with the stock spring hanger. Wish I would have taken the time to work through this before paint but here I am cutting and grinding again.
Handy little calculator for working on shackle angle. http://www.saltire.com/HTML5/Triangles/Triangle Given 3 Sides.html
Spent five days sandblasting an early hood and started repairing rust when I decided to see if it fits to hole, as luck would have it after two days of screwing around the hood is ½” out of square and my front is within 1/8” of square in the opposite direction making it 5/8” out of square on my rig. Paint is on hold until I find a new hood so I’ll keep busy with some other stuff and keep my fingers crossed I find something soon.
J Mack,
I'm just not picturing what you mean by the top of the frame. Are you mounting the hanger through the frame, at the top?
I'm just not picturing what you mean by the top of the frame. Are you mounting the hanger through the frame, at the top?
- Thread starter
- #789
Yes I’ll put some Ruff Stuff Bushed DOM Sleeve’s in the frame near the top and make some 6” shackles. This will give me more suspension travel and lower the front of the pig at the same time, I used the rule of thumb shoot for a vertical shackle with the springs at full droop and about a 45° angle at full compression and with the 3.75” shackles I was going to about 8° at full compression and was inverting, my plan was to drive the pig and deal with this later but with some other delays and the fact that I’m currently building my winch mount that ties into the same general area I decided to bite the bullet and tackle it now.
I’’ snap some photos of the progress if you’re interested, right now it’s just some 2” holes in the frame, a hole in my wallet and some gusset drawings on my computer.
I've got an extra hood, but it will either be from a '76 or '77. I don't recall what year your TC is.....
- Thread starter
- #791
Thank you, I looked at a local one yesterday and plan on looking at another local one tomorrow, I’ll shoot you a PM if this second one looks as bad as the first.
Scrap,
This shows the new pivot location, I’ll make 6” boomerang shackles to clear the cross member that will also raise the front of my springs 1” at the same time. As you can see in the picture I have 3.25” shackles now and I was hoping the 3.75” shackles I have on the rear would cure my inversion issue but no luck, if I go any longer and keep the factory hanger I lose caster on top of having low hanging shackles. My desire to keep the pig with factory looking suspension is giving way to my desire to having working suspension.
All the old hangers will be removed and new bracing added once I get closer, for now I need to keep it a roller. .
This is a picture of the winch mount that will weld and bolt in, I’m making a bumper cover now that will hide the fairlead.
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- Thread starter
- #792
Scrap Daddy,
This shows the suspension collapsed down to the bump stops and the 3.25” shackle almost inverted and the angle of the new 6” shackle at about a 45° angle.
This shows the suspension collapsed down to the bump stops and the 3.25” shackle almost inverted and the angle of the new 6” shackle at about a 45° angle.
- Thread starter
- #793
So I got a chance this morning to work on my shackle relocation, I hope this helps someone else that tries to stay SUA with arched springs.
Picture of the internal frame gusset, new bushing tubes and shackles, I needed to make boomerang shackles to clear the factory cross member.
In a perfect world I would have been able to move the bushings back another ½” but reinforcing the cross member after removing that much was going to be a challenge at this point in my build so I settled for a happy medium. I’m -7 degrees at full extension and 43 degrees at full compression. Everything is just tacked in place for now and I’ll clean up the frame and finish welding before I reinstall the front sheet metal.
Looking over my measurements this is what I’ve come up with.
Factory pig measuring from the bottom of the frame to the top of the axle tube is 6” at rest 4” fully compressed and 9” fully extended, with my lift springs and OME shackles 11” at rest 8.5 fully compressed (shackles inverted) and 13” fully extended. Now with the same springs and new 6” shackles I’m 10.5” at rest 7.75” fully compressed and 14.5 fully extended and the spring rate seams way better, with the OME shackles we kept having to increase spring rate to overcome the extreme angle.
Picture of the internal frame gusset, new bushing tubes and shackles, I needed to make boomerang shackles to clear the factory cross member.
In a perfect world I would have been able to move the bushings back another ½” but reinforcing the cross member after removing that much was going to be a challenge at this point in my build so I settled for a happy medium. I’m -7 degrees at full extension and 43 degrees at full compression. Everything is just tacked in place for now and I’ll clean up the frame and finish welding before I reinstall the front sheet metal.
Looking over my measurements this is what I’ve come up with.
Factory pig measuring from the bottom of the frame to the top of the axle tube is 6” at rest 4” fully compressed and 9” fully extended, with my lift springs and OME shackles 11” at rest 8.5 fully compressed (shackles inverted) and 13” fully extended. Now with the same springs and new 6” shackles I’m 10.5” at rest 7.75” fully compressed and 14.5 fully extended and the spring rate seams way better, with the OME shackles we kept having to increase spring rate to overcome the extreme angle.
- Thread starter
- #794
Little update, I’ve been busy with mindless work like welding holes and priming front end parts. Getting ready to bolt the inner fenders on for the last time and I’m trying to get all the plumbing done.
Looks great. Did you incorporate a PCV oil catch can?
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- #796
No, do I need one?
Well, they do blow a lot of PCV oil/fuel vapor out the pipe on the side and tend to dribble oil/fuel on the ground.
- Thread starter
- #798
To be honest I didn’t give it much thought, I assumed the tube on the side would direct it down but now that you mention it the one on my Freightliner makes a mess of the underside of my truck.
What did you use for yours?
I was going to use a Mann Provent type of setup (didn't get around to installing it before I sold it), but there are a bunch of other options out there, even a couple of different Cummins set ups.
Don't forget to put the nut on your shock bolt.
