New to us, 2002 4Runner Sport (1 Viewer)

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For our youngest. She was a bit slow to buy into it, but she seems stoked now.

2002_4runner.jpg


For my taste, this is the pinnacle of 4runner styling.

School me on ECT and how the 4wheel drive works. It looks like it has 2wd and 4wd via the button on the shifter, obviously high and low via the shifter, and then a center diff lock button on the left of the column?

I tried 4wd before I bought it, but I didn't notice the diff lock button until after. It doesn't have a locker in the axle.

I literally bought it from a little old lady who only drove it on Sundays. She said she had insurance that was only good on weekends, and another car for commuting. 115k mi.
 
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Nice rig, but...these sub-forums are slow as molasses.

You will find WAY more input (good and bad) in chat...just saying.
 
ECT changes the shift points in the transmission. I generally use it for towing as it seems to hold gears longer which I find helpful in that situation, otherwise I leave it off. By today's standards it might be called "sport" mode.

As far as the 4wd system, Toyota did alot of monkeying around with how the 4wd system engaged from 96 to 02 and I'm not 100% sure but I think it goes something like this.

No buttons pushed = 2wd
Awd (I think instead of 4wd) button pushed = AWD (not true 50/50 power split, still rear biased
CDL pushed = true 4wd 50/50 power front and rear
hi = hi with any of the above
Low = true 4wd 50/50 on low range

So if you shift to low I think all the others kind of default on, similar to how the CDL auto engages on an 80 unless you've done the pin 7 mod
 
No buttons pushed = 2wd
Awd (I think instead of 4wd) button pushed = AWD (not true 50/50 power split, still rear biased
CDL pushed = true 4wd 50/50 power front and rear
hi = hi with any of the above
Low = true 4wd 50/50 on low range

So if you shift to low I think all the others kind of default on, similar to how the CDL auto engages on an 80 unless you've done the pin 7 mod

After doing some other reading and playing around with it, I believe this is exactly correct. Thanks.
 
Good deal. The 3rd gens are solid rigs. I am sure you have done your research, but about the only thing I know of that came up alot was the radiator failure causing the "pink milkshake" and making sure the lower ball joints are serviced regularly. Aside from those things and as long as they get regular maintenance, TB, water pump, etc. there seem to be relatively few issues with them. I have put almost 60k on mine in the last 2 years and it has served me well.

Hope she enjoys it.
 
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... and making sure the lower ball joints are serviced regularly. Aside from those things and as long as they get regular maintenance, TB, water pump, etc. there seem to be relatively few issues with them.

It has a bit of a shake in the steering wheel. I rotated the tires and it helped. Is this related to the lower ball joints? 115k seem like a good time for that?

It's going to go in for the timing belt and water pump service soon.
 
It has a bit of a shake in the steering wheel. I rotated the tires and it helped. Is this related to the lower ball joints? 115k seem like a good time for that?

It's going to go in for the timing belt and water pump service soon.

The shimmy up front could be a few different things, but I doubt it is the LBJ. I had a bad shake and I had my tires balanced and it took care of most of it, what is left is due to uneven wear from a long rotation interval. I would say a good alignment and having the tires balanced will likely take care of the shake. Since they are rack-n-pinion steering, the feel is a little different than the old style, almost a more direct feel because it has less parts connecting the driver to the tire. If that doesn't take care of the shake then I would look at inner or outer rod ends and work back from there. I changed my LBJ's about 6 months ago and I am pretty sure the ones that came off were the originals and they didn't feel loose or show any signs of wear. I have just read some info on them failing and figured it was good PM. you might put it on the to-do list somewhere, but with 115k on the ticker you probably could push that off for another day. Maybe if it needs new shocks up front or something then do the LBJ's then. That is what I did because I had them off to get the shocks in and out anyway, unbolting the lower arm makes getting the shock in and out considerably easier.

Other than that, is the shake under braking? The 3rd gens seem to have a tendency to warp rotors for some reason, so if it is under braking then I might check that angle.

I did my TB and water pump right at 200k. Have them check the crank seal and the cam seals. My cam seals were fine but I did replace my crank seal as it was leaking pretty badly.

Also
 
I did my TB and water pump right at 200k. Have them check the crank seal and the cam seals. My cam seals were fine but I did replace my crank seal as it was leaking pretty badly.

Also

That must've been the 2nd TB, right?

The tires look to have never been rotated and are not that old. I could tell it was time. The rears that I moved to the front are 80% or better, flat and smooth. I'll get the balance checked. Good idea.

Also what?
 
That must've been the 2nd TB, right?

The tires look to have never been rotated and are not that old. I could tell it was time. The rears that I moved to the front are 80% or better, flat and smooth. I'll get the balance checked. Good idea.

Also what?

Sorry, the also was a brain fart. If I was going to type something else, it left me.

As far as the TB, I really don't know. I bought it used and the CarFax didn't show the service record and the dealer didn't know either. I would suspect it was as it appeared to be pretty well maintained when I got it. I actually was looking at a 2000 on the same lot that had higher miles and was kind of ragged out for more $$ when my wife spotted this one on the far end of the lot. Interior was clean and the engine wasn't covered with a film of "shine-everything" which made me think that it was probably pretty clean when it came in, however when I changed the plugs they were worn pretty bad and I suspect they had never been touched so that has me on the fence about if it was the 2nd or the original belt. Pretty sure the accessory belts were original, so it might have been the one and only belt.
 
I bought a 99 a few months back with the idea my youngest would drive it for a while. But my youngest is 30 and every attempt at trying to keep her in a car has failed. A couple years before the vehicle we bought her was lost to title loan.:bang: In the end she didn't end with the 4Runner so it's my around town vehicle. Not sure I'm keeping or getting a different one. I learned a few thinks. The 4X4 system you have was in the limited model only until 2001 when all 4WD models had it. My 4WD SR5 99 has a standard type 4WD system with shifter, 2WD high, 4WD high, neutral, 4WD lo. Rear locking axle option went away in 2001. Still trying to figure out if VSC/ATRAC became standard on all 4WD models in 2001. Tht was the first year I believe the 4Runner had VSC/ATRAC. Does your have the VSC/ATRAC light on the dash? If it does there will be a light on the dash with VSC with a line thru it when the transfer case is locked. The ECT was on the 80 series as well as the 100 series at least until 2003. Besides towing I find it useful when driving in the mountains.
 
If your rotors are warped do the Tundra upgrade. They were on my 2000. The bigger brakes are much better.
 
Nice score on the 4runner. I agree with @mudmaster per tundra rotors, I did mine and wish I had went to the 221s rather than the 199s. Very easy swap out. Also, I have 180K on mine and the radiator has finally given out. No pink milkshake, but leaking from the lower left side under pressure.
New toyota radiator is in the garage waiting to be installed.
Good luck
 
@Fast Eddy That is a great ride you got perfect for first timer or college kids. I have a 99 SR5 that i bought as a fixer upper i drop in a reman engine about a year ago since it's pushing 245k when i got it with a blown HG. Get the TB and WP and all pulleys replaced you can get a complete Aisin kit for less than the OEM price the only thing different is the box,i would replace the LBJ as soon as possible due to age and check inner and outer tierod ends for wear. I would highly suggest you check out T4R.ORG to learn more about the 4Runner,if you are doing the TB yourself you need to increase the torque for the crank bolt to 215 FTlbs from the 187 Ftlbs due to bolt backing out.
 
275K on my 98 and (by far) the most mechanically reliable Toyota 4x4 I have ever owned (85&86 mini, 90&95 Runners, 72&77&77&97&99&99 Cruisers)
 
Just hit 150K on my 01 LTD. ^^^Most reliable rig I have ever owned.
 
Funny you bumped this just now. The :princess: just got her license last Thursday on the 2nd try. She's armed with a 4runner and dangerous. She deserves it and more, [brag] 4.3 gpa, most valuable swimmer on the varsity team sophomore and junior years and now captain of the varsity cheerleaders.[/brag]
 
Get the LBJ replace soon those things are notorious for popping out while driving,the TB and WP can wait and it's not an interference engine. Get Toyota LBJ if price is not an issue you can do it in a couple of hours and won't affect your current alignment. Bring the 4Runner to Pismo and let her have some fun with it.
 
Things to check and get replaced if they haven't are, the lower ball joints. I went with Moog's and haven't had any issues. I used lots of red Loctite on the 8 bolts that hold the lower ball joint in, they tend to back out. Check the last time it had its timing belt and water pump replaced, and if its a automatic get a separate transmission cooler for it. The seals on the stock radiator fail inside. Look up 4runner or Tacoma strawberry milkshake you'll find tons of write ups/stories on this.

couple other little things the cv boots tend to tear, and the breather on the rear axle is not in the best spot.

these are just my personal experiences over the years of owning my Tacoma and seeing others on forums and what not

Skillet is right about these sub forums being slow, 4runnerforums has tons of info and guides should check it out
 

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