Piping Compressed Air Throughout Garage - Which Piping System??? (1 Viewer)

[1FZj80]

Copper is ideal but a can be expensive depending on pipe size and is time consuming to sweat connections.
The newer compressed air piping kits/systems are more expensive than copper. The fittings are expensive but assembly is quick and easy.
PVC has the shatter issue but it can be sleeved and I will be running a fair amount of pipe/tube in the attic which could be PVC and then transition to copper in the shop.
Any other options or suggestions.?

 

[canman]

I ran pre-painted/coated steel pipe from the compressor in my basement out to my garage. I rented a pipe threading machine for the day which made a very quick job of threading the ends. I attached the pipe lengths using electrical conduit saddle clamps to 2"x4"s that were screwed to the wall studs to space the pipe off the wall because the fittings used to join the pipe lengths are a little bigger in diameter. I've had this system installed for over 10 years now without any leaks or issues.

 

[firestopper]

I used Fastpipe by Rapider. 20' sections of 1" extruded aluminum powder coated blue. When I was designing the system, copper was the way I was heading, but it gets pricy after 3/4". I compared the Fastpipe and found it to cost just a little more with no hot work required 14-16' from the floor.
Its rated at 195 psi and has been in service for 8 months with no pressure drop. Over all loop system is about 300' with seven drops. The system is complete with auto tank dump (plumbed to out side) auto dump into pickle jar from refrigerated dryer with by-pass manifold set up.

 

[1FZj80]

Nice setup! But I know that was $$$
Mine will be a little smaller
I will do a complete layout and price between the two (copper and FastPipe or equal). I think I will be fine with 3/4".
I think copper will be less $, but maybe not...?
Thanks for picts of your setup. It gives me a few ideas.

 

[firestopper]

Thanks. New construction so you know how that goes. Rapid air also makes a kit that is cheaper than copper (when all said and done) but it comes in coil form smaller diameter than the Fastpipe.
If you use PVC (I do not advise) use schedule 80. I did this in my old shop (I work alone) and never had ANY issues for 15 years. It was secured every 36" and had no play or flex. Again, not recommended.

 

[leadvagas]

Well if you want cheap, PEX tubing. Cross link poly, it's semi flexible, cuts with a knife, takes fittings in brass or nylon. Only special tool you need is an expander, Milwakee makes a nice battery operated one. I use PEX in commertial/industrial HVAC, burst pressure is over 200 psi.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

1/2" and 3/4" copper in mine. All together about 50' with fittings.

J

 

[1FZj80]

^^^Yes
Going with copper.
Hoping to get started this weekend...

 

[1FZj80]

Finally got this done this weekend. I went with copper and happy with the result. Cost $350 at home depote for 8 sticks of 3/4" thin wall and all the fitting, solder, flux, etc. needed to piece it all together. I put each connection along the shelf line and kept it above the machines so I can move things around without worry of losing access or damaging the pipe. I used a 3/4" filter/regulator from Northern Tool and airflow seems adequate. Sure is nice to have compressed air connections everywhere in the shop

 

[firestopper]

Looks good 1FZj80,
I am curious about your flex line though. When the compressor is running, do you get any vibration transferring to the supply line? also, what is the rated working pressure of the flex.
I have always used a rubber hose rated for 200 psi for this application.

 

[1FZj80]

The flex is water heater line from Home Depot and not recommended for use with gasses but using temporarily. The tank is on vibration isolators so is moves very little. I was in a rush to get the air working

 

[1FZj80]

As an FYI, the unions on each side of the filter/regulator leaked severely. They were not damaged, out of round, etc. I polished until they were nice and smooth and they still leaked. After searching on the interwebs, I found many other with this same problem but no real fix. Out of sheer luck, I used Teflon pipe sealant on the mating face of each union and tightened just snug. This stopped the leaking and it now holds pressure without any noticeable pressure drop in 24-hours. Also, Teflon tape sucks!!! Don't use it. It does not seal the connection and bits tear off and get in the pipe. Stick with pipe sealant for an air tight connection at threaded joints.

 

[jwk3]

I own a plumbing shop. I just used 1" black iron drops I had left over from jobs. 1" main with 1/2" drops. I will eventually run a pressure equalizing loop to keep pressure constant through the system. One bit of advise when using Teflon, because NPT is a tapered thread, start your Teflon wrap after the first or second thread. This will help keep the small bit of Teflon out of your tools, plasma cutters, and paint. Hope this helps

 

[rusty_tlc]

Teflon tape trick, start at the open end below the threads, wrap in the opposite direction of the threads, no more than two wraps thick.

 

[Mace]

Also, teflon tape is not a sealant, it's a thread lubricant

 

[John123180]

Great group! Just thought I'd share where I bought my garage kit for compressor piping

Check it out. The install was easy!

AIR PIPING SOLUTIONS - Compressed Air Piping

 

[Hack]

Black iron pipe and fittings. Plumbed the garage and the basement using it:

 

[firestopper]

Clean job, but perhaps a flex type line from compressor to hard line. Vibration/resonance can cause issues with prolonged use.

 

[Hack]

Clean job, but perhaps a flex type line from compressor to hard line. Vibration/resonance can cause issues with prolonged use.

There is a short length of GoodYear high pressure hose between the first 90* bend off the compressor valve and the initial drop. Looks like black iron pipe, but take a closer look and you can see the flex in it.

 

[firestopper]

Nice! Hard to see it with my tired eyes. Again, clean install.