1966 resto (1 Viewer)

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Here are the other photos.

They say it takes a village to raise a child and that's certainly been the case with MUD members. Many thanks to all and a special thanks to Tahoe40/45 who has gone "above and beyond". I began the cowl vent/damper "adventure" without the fasteners and without any idea of what I needed. Tahoe40/45 provided the pics which I forwarded to the parts supplier. When I received the order, I couldn't make sense of it and Tahoe40/45 confirmed through pictures that the supplier sent the fasteners for a later year. It is actually a relief because if I looked at that "pin" any longer trying to make it work, it would have talked back. Now let's see if I can convince them to send me the right part.

 

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We are getting closer. I haven't had a lot of time I devote to Leaky recently- a couple of hours here and there. Front- done

Rear- done

It's the stuff between the two that's slow going

The special non-slip mat police will definitely notice-mat cut on a 45/bias but not white. I cut mats in white but felt it was too stark given the Dune Beige and Grey. I decided to go with charcoal grey

 

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Horn help needed!!!!
Can someone dumb it down and tell me how to wire the horn from the relay back to the column? I don't know the name of the components or how they function or how they are connected. Here's what I have

Getting easier to understand my MUD name......
Any help appreciated

 

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I should have qualified the horn inquiry. Nuclearlemon has a very informative thread but it is intermediate/advanced and I need a basic understanding in order to appreciate it. For instance, where does the wire insert into the column and what is it attached to and how? What contacts what in order for the horn to work? Sorry but the request to dumb it down was serious as I have no experience with wiring in general or horns in particular.
thanks

 

[tahoe40/45]

I should have qualified the horn inquiry. Nuclearlemon has a very informative thread but it is intermediate/advanced and I need a basic understanding in order to appreciate it. For instance, where does the wire insert into the column and what is it attached to and how? What contacts what in order for the horn to work? Sorry but the request to dumb it down was serious as I have no experience with wiring in general or horns in particular.
thanks

You should have a green wire with a red stripe coming out of the bottom of your steering column before it goes through the fire wall, that comes from the horn ring, #6 in photo. Then there should be a green wire with red stripe coming out of your wiring harness near where the instrument cluster plugs into the wiring harness. ( it should have a female fitting)
Contact is made by #11, a spring with what looks like a lead plug at the end. that spring is attached to #5. When #5 is placed on the steering wheel the lead plug looking thing will aline with a hole and come through the bottom of steering wheel making contact with the horn ring #6.
Photo shows order of horn button installation. Looks like your missing #5 and #4. (#4 is a horn spacer/rubber grommet)

 

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It's beginning to make sense ( and that's the scary part...). Thanks Tahoe40/45 ONCE AGAIN!!!!!!
The horn for Leaky was the remants of an aftermarket button on the column- no wire, just the clamp and enough plastic for me to guess it was a horn.
I am at best a "parts swapper" not a mechanic. If I can see it put together, I can take it apart and reassemble it (sometimes). In order for me to wrap my head around it, please let me confirm that the horn ring is depicted in the first photo of #83 seated around the steering column- a metal "cup" or "race" sitting on top of a rubber bushing/grommet. If so, the wire appears to connect to it. The second question is does the wire run inside of the column or outside and then a 90 degree into the column just below the horn ring? I am going to go back to the shop as well as re-read the posts in order to source or manufacture #'s 4 and 5.
The last thing I saw before securing the dash cluster was a piece of a green wire and wondering "where does this go?"
Thanks again- Now I know why so many pics of early 40's are sporting the aftermarket horn button on the column
Thanks again!

 

[tahoe40/45]

Yes thats the horn ring in #83. And yes the wire runs on the inside of the column then exits the column about 5" back from the fire wall through a small hole that should have a rubber grommet. Look all the way around the bottom of column, it (the column)may have been twisted when reinstalled and the hole could be to the side or on top.

 

[tahoe40/45]

To help sort out some of the parts you have. The two parts in the circles go to your turn signal lever, looks like your missing the the little arm that returns the lever to a neutral position. And that part looks to be broken, lever will still work but won't return to neutral position after a right turn. You will have to manually return the turn signal lever to neutral.

 

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Thanks- I want to go back to the shop and look closely at the interior of the wheel and make sure that the horn seat (SOR's term for #5) is not "seated" in the wheel. I know that I do not have the spacer.
I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to help!

 

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Thanks to Tahoe 40/45 I realized what I had and more importantly what I was missing.
I was missing the lower cam of the turn signal return - had the spring but not cam.
Fabbed one out of a flat washer -works like a charm

 

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Defrost duct/hose/tube help needed!!!!!! Any leads on sourcing the factory look for defrost ducts/tubes and elbows running from the heater to the defrost vents for the 66? Leaky came with a piece of one which was wrapped in duct tape. Looked like remnants of a rubber elbow and a flex tube(wire coil wrapped in fabric). The drivers side was MIA.
Several trips to local suppliers and I'm coming up empty and have missed it searching online.
As always THANKS!!!!

 

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Real time heater hose question( in the I took it apart and now can't remember category)
The inlet line from the block to the front heater joins at the firewall to a drain and a short run of hose to the heater core ie hose clamps on both sides of the firewall grommet . My question is whether the return hose from the core back to to the block ( no rear heater) is a single hose or whether it is a similar short run and is joined by a union to a separate hose going back to the block????
Many thanks

 

[tahoe40/45]

Defrost duct/hose/tube help needed!!!!!! Any leads on sourcing the factory look for defrost ducts/tubes and elbows running from the heater to the defrost vents for the 66? Leaky came with a piece of one which was wrapped in duct tape. Looked like remnants of a rubber elbow and a flex tube(wire coil wrapped in fabric). The drivers side was MIA.
Several trips to local suppliers and I'm coming up empty and have missed it searching online.
As always THANKS!!!!

For a temporary fix i found some flexible hose for a vacuum, then i went to the auto parts store with the heater box and found some radiator hose elbows that fit into the defrost outlet. The elbows that i found were just a little bigger OD than the hole in the heater box, so i took a razor blade and cut a little channel around the elbow about 1/8" in from the edge of elbow. Then i was able to insert the elbow into the heater box with the metal on the box sitting in the channel that i cut. ( making a tight fit ) The hose that i found ( think i got it at Lowes or Homedepot) fit into the elbows and onto the defrost duct on my Cruiser. I used electrical tape to make the connection between hose and elbow.

Ill try to find some photos to help explain better. I eventually found some decent used factory elbows, but used the temp fix for a couple years and it worked great.

 

[tahoe40/45]

You heater hose return should officially be a short run to the firewall, then a long run back to your radiator. They connect with #11 and #12 in photo at the firewall through the rubber grommet, #10. #11 & #12 in the photo are for a Cruiser with a rear heater. So you can either find used ones for a single heater system or make your own.

 

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Once again, thanks Tahoe 40/45.Early yesterday morning without the benefit of your advice (or adult supervision) I decided to install a shutoff between the block and the run going along the firewall as I don't envision needing a heater or defrost too often. I also opted to remove the drain (frozen and then unstuck and then leaky)and go with a single piece from the block to the heater core and a single piece from the core back to radiator. My goal was to eliminate maintenance points. I tried a JB Weld fix on the vent cable. I'll let it set up for a couple of days. Ill post up pics later this week!
Thanks again

 

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Pics of the heater control valve and solid runs.
Will continue to work to finish the heater and will post up

 

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View attachment 1097607View attachment 1097608
Pics of the heater control valve and solid runs.
Will continue to work to finish the heater and will post up

Part # on that short-sweet and to the point valve? Thank's, John

 

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Part # on that short-sweet and to the point valve? Thank's, John

I got it from O'Reilly Auto Parts and asked for a heater shutoff valve. As I recall he didn't ask for make/model and came back with a couple of options. I chose the one pictured.
I'll check to see if I still have the box or copy of the receipt, or if the store can pull up my history,etc.

 

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Thank's

 

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Manufactured by Murray 84700 and this particular one purchased from Oreilly