Yaesu FT-8800R Install Questions (1 Viewer)

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Hey Guys,

Im getting ready to install the Yaesu 8800 in the 80. Since I will be installing the main unit in the back and the face up front, the existing power wires that comes with the unit are to short(we had to extend it on my buddys fj thats how i know)

I called Yaesus tech support for a question and the tech support guy told me to ground the negative without a fuse as close to the main unit as possible and NOT use battery.

He also recommended that I install a RF noise filter on the positive red wire before the fuse on the battery.

None of this is mentioned in the manual. What do you guys think ?

I have installed car audio amps in the past, and have always used the chasis as ground, not the battery so its making a little sense to me, but I am not sure about HAM radios.

Just when I thought i was ready to do the install. :confused:

Harry
 
From everything I have been told you run both positive and negative directly to the battery. You then ground the radio to the truck with the short unshielded cable.

It has been working for me and I haven't required any filters. When extending the power cables I soldered my splice and covered with heat shrink and soldered on battery connectors.

Take care when running both the power cables and antenna to avoid any source of RF noise and to keep them separated.

Don't sweet it, I've helped install lots of radios and 90% of the time you get it right the first time and the rest of the time it's normally something small.

73

VA7DRW
 
I have the same exact radio (love it) and mine is powered thru an aux cig lighter plug I have in the back of the cab, grounded to the cab. +12V comes from the battery thru an aux fuse block. No special wiring, I just plugged it in. Works great.
 
I installed mine in the back also with the face plate up front. I used butt connectors and heat shrink to extend both wires to my aux battery in the engine bay. I left the OEM fuses in line and got OCD and put a second set of fuses at the battery. Overkill I know, but I didn't want that long an extension w/o fuses by the power source. Both red and black are connected to the battery and it's not grounded anywhere else.

I've had no problems at all with this set up per manual instructions.
 
I've always installed a fused connection on the + side coming from the battery and the negative side also directly to the battery. It has worked fine for me.
 
I have the FT8900 in my 100 mounted in one of the rear quarter storage pockets.

IMHO the best thing to do is ditch the OEM glass fuses, add a blade type inline fuse holder as close as possible to the battery on each lead. This just reduces the number of spare parts I have to carry by standardizing.

I wouldn't ground the radio at the install point as this could create a potential voltage due to the resistance path from the radio to the battery via the chassis. In addition there could be some floating AC at that point on the frame due to all the other devices that are grounded through it.
It's really not any more trouble to run two wires than one is it?

I'd also go to the next size up for the wire run. I think the OEM wire is 12, so go to a 10. This will provide a lower resistance to compensate for the longer run.
 
I have the FT8900 in my 100 mounted in one of the rear quarter storage pockets.

IMHO the best thing to do is ditch the OEM glass fuses, add a blade type inline fuse holder as close as possible to the battery on each lead. This just reduces the number of spare parts I have to carry by standardizing.

I wouldn't ground the radio at the install point as this could create a potential voltage due to the resistance path from the radio to the battery via the chassis. In addition there could be some floating AC at that point on the frame due to all the other devices that are grounded through it.
It's really not any more trouble to run two wires than one is it?

I'd also go to the next size up for the wire run. I think the OEM wire is 12, so go to a 10. This will provide a lower resistance to compensate for the longer run.
Ya, thats my plan. I will be ordering new 10 ga wire, fuse holders(blade type) and connectors from this cool website I found:
Powerwerx: Online Shopping for Anderson Powerpoles, Wire & Cable, Adapter Cables, Power Splitters & more

Looks like they have everything i need.

I will be going directly to the battery from both positive and negative leads.


Thanks guys!


Harry
 
FT8800 is a great little radio - I love mine.

x2 on everything Rusty_tlc says. I like his suggestion on the fuse replacement. I think I will do that and get rid of the glass fuses.

The Powerwerx site is awesome! I have spent a fortune there. All my gear uses the same power pole connectors so I can swap things in all my cars and home with ease.

I also got one of the inline filters from Powerwerx just in case. I don't notice a difference with or without it though.

Have fun.

-m
 
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Ya, thats my plan. I will be ordering new 10 ga wire, fuse holders(blade type) and connectors from this cool website I found:
Powerwerx: Online Shopping for Anderson Powerpoles, Wire & Cable, Adapter Cables, Power Splitters & more

Looks like they have everything i need.

I will be going directly to the battery from both positive and negative leads.


Thanks guys!


Harry

This thread's a tad old, but can anyone guess as to what power connector hn is recommending? I get the 10gauge and the fuse holder, but I would love to know what kind of connector works best on this install. I'm guessing it's the standard t..
 
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I use ring terminals on the clamp screws. If you have the $$ go with the military style terminals. For an AUX battery I would use RV/Marine style terminals, the kind that clamp on and have a 1/4-20 stud.
 
I use ring terminals on the clamp screws. If you have the $$ go with the military style terminals. For an AUX battery I would use RV/Marine style terminals, the kind that clamp on and have a 1/4-20 stud.

Awesome. This is a slow upgrade, so I had purchased some military grade terminals.
But I have the IBS dual battery system, so it should be a bit easier. Need to open it up and see.

The main challlenge replacing that power wiring to the radio as you described. That's a great idea. So I'll need a blade type fuse near the battery connection and run 10 gauge wiring to the radio. The work will be creating a t-type connection from the 10 gauge wiring.
 

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