1966 resto (1 Viewer)

[notaclue]

It seemed someone in the 25 section had found a coral color material very close to stock. Try searching this section. I haven't checked Aatlas1X site in along time. I know he is not on mud much anymore and people were having a hard time getting hold of him. Glad to hear he still around making products. As I remember the seat covers weren't cheap. Didn't think SOR had coral seat covers. Problem I had was Shane coral seat covers were for the 64 and later bench seats and SOR pre 64 cover that worked for the early FJ40 as well as FJ25 were only in grey. If SOR has coral seat covers won't be surprised if they are from Shane. That has happened with light lenses and hubcaps as well as other item. Someone reproduced something sells them here and bulk sells the rest to SOR. Personally if your not looking to restore and then sell but rather use I wouldn't spend big money on seat covers that will probably be worn pretty good if you decide to sell later. The trick is finding the right balance of restoring so it looks nice but still willing to use it. Seen some FJ40 done so nice owners were afraid to sue them and in the end just sold it rather then have it just sit in their garage.

Thanks for the advice! The Aatlas1x site is the only place that I have seen the elusive "coral" covers offered for sale(but at last check currently not in stock). SOR offers a black repop. Both are ribbed which as I understand from an earlier thread was a post 66 offering.
I agree with the notion of "finding the right balance" which is why my leanings are to go with the less expensive option of having a local guy make and install.The quote for the local turnkey was less than the cost of materials alone from SOR. Consequently if I can find a close to OEM color and fabric, it's a "win-win" proposition. If I can't come close, I'll probably go with a gray option.
Thanks again
Frank

 

[Living in the Past]

Here is the thread I was thinking about. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj25-red-seat-vinyl-match.811726/#post-9273995 Probably the route I'll go. Shane offered those coral seat covers on mud a few years back. Like I said his covers were a fit for the 64-67 FJ40. I do not own a a FJ40 during those years. He also offered them for a short time for the FJ45LP-B 64-67. I believe he did a single of each and probably won't be making anymore anytime soon unless he has enough interest. While I own a 65 FJ45 probably won't go 100% original as the original F engine listed on the VIN was replaced with a 2F by the PO.

 

[Weber Sarge]

The starting handle on most models was stored on the driver's (left) side of the rear wheel well for the rear 2 clips , the front one was either on the side wall just behind the door opening or on the floor next to the driver's seat rear bracket .

Later model Aussie market (1981) was integrated in with the jack storage mounting rack -

These parts are nearly impossible to find and includes the starting handle and front bumper guide . I'm already making bumper guides and have them for sale on MUD as well as Fleabay - have a starting handle on it's way to be copied to spec so I can match it exactly . The front bumper guide cannot be distinguished between the OEM original and my copy - spent a lot of time getting them right and make them by hand . Just looking to copy all versions of these rare storage clips , seems so far we've figured out there are at least 3 versions ....
Sarge

 

[notaclue]

Not a whole lot has happened over the last two weeks as "life has gotten in the way". However that's going to change next week as Leaky is ready to come back sporting a new color. Sneak peek below........

Today was working on small parts that didn't make it to the powder coater.

 

[notaclue]

SHE'S BACK! Looking good and now the reassembly and questions (where does that go, how does this fit back together,etc) begin.

 

[Icantdive55]

Very nice!

 

[notaclue]

Thank you Sarge for the education and thanks Rod for the compliment! I have followed threads and posts that each of you have submitted and have always found them helpful.
In my do, undo, and redo,bang I am reminded that the steering column, wheel, etc need attention-particularly in light of the new paint. I'll confess that I haven't wrapped my head around the mechanics of either the horn or turn signal assemblies. I've studied SOR diagrams and I've removed the wheel. The turn signal assembly is next. I guess my plan is continue removing parts till I figure it out Not knowing what I'm doing has never stopped me but it tends to make things more difficult.....
Thanks again!

 

[Icantdive55]

When I get ready to put mine back together I will need a few springs for the seats, see post#50. Anybody have a source for those?

 

[notaclue]

Progress continues...... I started in the rear assembling the rear doors. I learned that alignment is much improved if one installs the hinges right side up

 

[notaclue]

Dumb question but I'll ask anyway. Are rear steps and Pinter hooks an "either-or" proposition or did factory offer models with both? I don't recall seeing pics with both and I guess the step could limit the travel of a trailer tongue but I thought I'd ask

 

[notaclue]

It's official! I'm not quitting my day job to rebuild 40's as I would surely starve. Whether it is trying to find fasteners(anyone tried to find the 6 screws for the side air intake cowl recently?) or having ordered parts and forgotten that I have or where I put them- I am slow!
The rear is done and I'm moving around to the front

 

[pardion]

Looking Good!

 

[hdjtachtig]

Nice! Are you using new (inox) bolts or did you have the stock bolts replated? Really nice.

 

[notaclue]

Nice! Are you using new (inox) bolts or did you have the stock bolts replated? Really nice.

Thanks for the compliments! I am using a combination of yellow zinc flange head bolts obtained from Daveworks and stainless screws sourced locally(windshield hinge fasteners sourced from SOR). I didn't have the option of using replated as a number of fasteners were "casualties" and did not survive the disassembly-particularly rear sill, running boards,seat brackets etc. With that in mind, all new receive a nickel never-sieze doping prior to installation. I am saving all survivors for replating for "the next project"......

 

[notaclue]

Like anything else it helps if you know what you are doing ( not that that has ever stopped me before).
I've had a chance to spend a good bit of the three day weekend on Leaky.

The rear is finished and the front is missing only the bezel. I rattle canned the bezel and should have stepped away from the rattle can.you know just going to touch up one little area.... Wet sand, dry, repeat.
Working on the dash- starting to come together.

Friend is helping (read doing )a partial rewire. PO had aftermarket switches and I'm trying to give the dash an original look.Progressing one wire at a time.

 

[notaclue]

I am hoping that someone or several someone's will post pictures of the dash for 66 era . I'm not sure "what" is supposed to go "where". I've got more dash holes than parts- most look factory(half moon, slots at the 6 o'clock, etc)
Thanks

 

[notaclue]

mechanical help NEEDED! Can someone please explain or show me how the cowl vent or cowl damper operates? I've enlarged the SOR diagram but to no avail. Specifically what does the cowl vent rod look like , where does it attach to the dash and how does it attach to the vent assembly?
Many thanks

 

[tahoe40/45]

Here are some better pictures of the vent set up. Third pic is the dash location. Fourth pic is from a different year Cruiser but shows where the pull would attach to on your Cruiser.

 

[notaclue]

Thanks! This was a great help. I have the knob and assembly but not the fasteners to connect the two-bolt and spring, etc. any ideas where I can source these?
Thanks again!!!!!!!

 

[tahoe40/45]

Here are the other photos.