FJ45 Roof Noise (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 11, 2013
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Greetings all you 45 pickup owners past and present. My '65 shortbed (with removable top) became roadworthy in October and I've noticed that the roof sheetmetal tends to "wobble" at speeds above 50 or thereabouts and I'm curious if this is normal for them or not. Very little work needed to be done on it during the build so I don't think that's it. I'm guessing its normal but knowledgeable feedback would be appreciated. Thanks, guys. Pete.
 
Are your windows open when it happens? Sometimes when the windows are open the fluctuating pressure causes the roof metal to pop up and down, especially if the roof metal has been damaged or pushed down before.
A possible cause.....
 
Yeah, I should have mentioned that it doesn't matter if the windows are up or down, it still wobbles. Where in Norcal? I'm in the Sacramento area. Pete
 
Pete-

Do you have a small gap in the hardtop where the fiberglass cap (edit: metal on the 45) meets up with the front fairing that bolts to the windshield frame? I had a small separation there and used a good body seam sealer to fill it and no more coke can denting at speeds. If you do and go this route be sure to use the sealer on the outside. It's much easier to get to from the inside (with no headliner) but when I want to reinstall a headliner I'll have to pull off all the sealer and redo from the outside.
 
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No roof wobble here. The old girl has been clocked at 87 mph by GPS. As Dom said, I have a re-usable U-shaped windshield seal that is re-applied each time I put the roof on.

jC
 
I've never had this problem with mine. I have the stock gaskets and connections in place.

Is the liner installed?

If not, try putting a piece of that lizard skin or some other type of noise suppression material.
 
HI Pete
Skip here, I don't have any issues with my 45 roof, I havent had it past 65 but no noise from the roof just everything else...;)
 
Pete-

Do you have a small gap in the hardtop where the fiberglass cap (edit: metal on the 45) meets up with the front fairing that bolts to the windshield frame? I had a small separation there and used a good body seam sealer to fill it and no more coke can denting at speeds. If you do and go this route be sure to use the sealer on the outside. It's much easier to get to from the inside (with no headliner) but when I want to reinstall a headliner I'll have to pull off all the sealer and redo from the outside.
Hi, Dom and thanks for the response. No gap located and I've never felt any kind of breeze coming from the roofline. Also, new weatherstrip used. BTW, I really enjoyed your thread (is that what they're called?) about your 45 SWB. Also, does anyone want to look at some photos of my 45? Thanks again, Dom.
 
I find there is a lot of noise from my roof when I drive at highway speeds, but I don't have a headliner. It does not cavitate, but it just rattles and I'm sure not having a headliner makes it worse as there is nothing to dampen the sound.
 
Hi, Skip. I heard Ben went out of business up there, too bad. Great guy. I've got your ph. # so I'll be calling before I come up your way and we'll get some coffee or a beer. Mine has a headliner but I can still see the sheetmetal moving around...can't be good.
 
I know some people weld in stiffeners to help the roof from flexing mine has one so maybe that is why it is not making noise. Ya give me a call ahead of time so I can make plans.
 
My 45 roof made a ton of noise before the resto. I basically did what Mike did in the thread that Ken linked to. Sound deadening material and a headliner also cut out a lot of the noise. Now I only get noise when the windows are down a a semi truck blows past me, but the sound from the roof is more of a dull sound now. Before, it would scare the crap out of me.
 
I guess running 40" boggers all these years, I dismissed all the little noises associated with a 45! The roof makes noise? All Ive ever heard is a twin prop airplane! All kidding aside, I have always used low profile office carpet as a headliner, works great and looks ok too.
 
Hey, thanks much, KT40! I'll read up on that link. The roof will have to be dismantled but it'll be worth the effort. All that wobbling around makes me nervous and I visualize it flying off or becoming warped...like me.
 
I didn't see it mentioned do you have the four latches across the front of the cap and are the catches on the top of the windshield adjusted so they have tension when latched?

I do have a related question, when did the latches go away and what replaced them? I have crazy idea of having the metal off a fiberglass top welded on to replace the latches or possibly figuring a way to add the place with threaded holes to a late model windshield and use the latches or maybe both systems to secure the top across the windshield.
 
I have crazy idea of having the metal off a fiberglass top welded on to replace the latches or possibly figuring a way to add the place with threaded holes to a late model windshield and use the latches or maybe both systems to secure the top across the windshield.

^
I like this idea John. Both interior latched and the bolts across the front. In my previous post I had a 40 top in my head about the attachment point.

Would be a lot of work but would be an improvement.
 
^
I like this idea John. Both interior latched and the bolts across the front. In my previous post I had a 40 top in my head about the attachment point.

Would be a lot of work but would be an improvement.

I just picked up a good metal strip to use. It would just being sure it was sealed all the way and in the right location to not cut the weatherstripping but seal tight. The plates I've been thinking about for a long time. First thought was to cut one opening for the plates then fish them over to the location they need to be. Then grind a U shaped opening and insert plate to keep them in the right location Do the same with the first opening with the hole. Weld all the openings and clean it up. But I believe I'm going with plan B. The windshield I'll be using was off a 80 FJ40 I think, either way it's post 77 and has the opening for the windshield washer nozzle. Attaching a stiff wire to the plate feed them to the location where I've drilled the holes for the screws. Would take some doing but believe I use one hole to align the other and put in one screw. Then use the screw to line up the second hole. Once that done the secret is never unscrew both screws at the same time when removing or install the catch. Plan B requires no drilling except for the holes for the screw but does require patience. Nothing a few beers and good tunes could help provide.
 
there was a thread 1-2 years ago, about the roof "oil canning" or similar, my search came up empty.
 

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