Welding...What is the best "STARTER KIT" (1 Viewer)

[e9999]

Some of the more basic questions to answer would be I think:

- is a bottom price welder like the HF all you can afford?
If yes, be prepared to be realistic about poor quality/reliability, and/or be very limited in what you can do with it, and limited or no availability of parts and accessories. But it'll get you started and able to play for a bit (until it conks out which won't be very long probably). Keep in mind you will also need to buy more stuff to actually weld with it. Eventually, the cost of the welder will not be as big as you may first think compared to everything else if you weld more seriously. (For example, I just bought a good helmet that cost me close to 1/2 the cost of a good welder.)
If not, see below.
- will you need no spatter welds and can't spend any time cleaning spattery ones?
If yes, you'll want a MIG
If not, a flux core will be fine (or better for some applications)
- will you ever need to do more than 3/16" or so steel in one pass? (That seems to me rather unlikely for most hobbyist welders.)
If yes, you'll need a 240V machine (or better a 120V/240V dual voltage one). And a good 240V circuit.
If not and if budget is not a major consideration, then consider getting the Hobart 140. It's a fantastic machine and from my research the best quality/price ratio one out there.
- will you ever need / want to do Aluminum? Then you'll need a good and versatile machine. Definitely not the cheapo ones.
- will you eventually want to upgrade?
If yes, you will not have an easy time to get much money out of a HF welder. OTOH, you might be able to resell a good condition Hobart/Miller/Lincoln for not a lot less than you bought it for, especially if in 110V. You might lose less or not much more than the $100 you'll probably not see ever back on the HF.
- Are you in a hurry?
If not, wait for a great deal on your local Craigslist. Welders usually go fast but if you're lucky you'll find one like new because somebody did not know how to set the polarity right and thinks the welder is bad. Ebay is a possibility too but the shipping will usually kill you on a transformer machine. Also, consider putting a Wanted ad on your Craigslist. There must be tons of unused welders gathering dust out there.

Btw, I think that the 90A HF is NOT the right machine to do critical function items like the bumpers and racks that you mentioned. And probably not a good idea to do altogether if you are a beginner welder.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Save your pennies and take a welding class before you buy a welder.

 

[LFD2037]

Are there ANY complaints about the Hobart 140?

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi all,

I have pretty much the exact same set-up, but with the 230V Hobart Handler 190. It is a great machine for the $$.
A friend with an old Lincoln 230V is jealous of my Hobart! Says it welds much better than his MIG!

I agree with the prior comments: buy a quality MIG (Lincoln, Miller, Hobart) and 230V if you can swing the $$ (you won't be sorry!)

Good luck,

Alan

My Hobart 140 (110v) has been nothing but good to me. Great little machine. When I step up to 220v it will be another Hobart. They're actually made by the same parent company that makes Miller welders.

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi all,

This is where I bought my Hobart Handler 190 230V MIG welder.

http://www.hobartweldshop.com/refurbished-hobart-welders/

I got it factory refurnished for US $500.00 They also sell Handler 140s, plasma cutters, etc.

They have very little stock on hand. What I did was reach out to their customer service dept. and tell them that I was actively looking for a Handler 190 MIG. Within 2 - 3 weeks I received an email from customer service that a few refurnished Handler 190s were available for sale on the website.

Regards,

Alan

 

[e9999]

When I looked, Northern Tool was the cheapest place I found for new Hobarts.
But the first one I got from them had been dropped in storage or shipping and was DoA.
They were, however, very good about sending a new one out.

 

[Pin_Head]

Get a Lincoln SA-200. The welder that built America.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Get a Lincoln SA-200. The welder that built America.

Going of topic... I pipeline welded for years.. I've had several of the 200 machines.. 57 short hood, 63, 66,68 redface w/Cont F162 and a 73 blackface w/ Cont F163, and finally bought a Vantage 300 to end my career (terrible machine, expensive job site generator, IMO....)

If I could have any of them back... the 66 redface.... I put about 5000 hours on that beast and it never complained. Smoothest beads ever, it just wanted to work. Some say you can't tell a difference between a shorty, red, and blackface... well I damn sure can/could.

Sorry guys had to go stroll down memory lane for a minute (THANKS @Pin_Head )... Hi-Jack over..

J

 

[Pin_Head]

I almost bought a '49 Shield Arc 200 shawty for a project, but there was way too much wrong with it for what they wanted. I don't have enough time to fool with it either and it would probably have just sat in my yard and continued rusting. It was the type that only had a manual crank start. No electric starter unless you hook a battery up to the welding generator.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I almost bought a '49 Shield Arc 200 shawty for a project, but there was way too much wrong with it for what they wanted. I don't have enough time to fool with it either and it would probably have just sat in my yard and continued rusting. It was the type that only had a manual crank start. No electric starter unless you hook a battery up to the welding generator.

I run across a lot of the older machines and have a good buddy that rebuilds them as well, if your ever in the market let me know.

J

 

[kjm76]

I am looking at the Miller 180 or the 211 from weldersupply.com. I don't have any plans to use 110v, but there is always a possibility I suppose. Is the 211 worth the extra $265? I only plan on using it for body work. Maybe some light fab but nothing structural. What do you think?

 

[e9999]

I am looking at the Miller 180 or the 211 from weldersupply.com. I don't have any plans to use 110v, but there is always a possibility I suppose. Is the 211 worth the extra $265? I only plan on using it for body work. Maybe some light fab but nothing structural. What do you think?

well, if you're going to do only body work and light fab, why do you need 240V? You can do up to 3/16" in one pass with a good 120V machine I believe.


corrected, wrote 3/8" above first but meant 3/16", sorry.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

well, if you're going to do only body work and light fab, why do you need 240V? You can do up to 3/8" in one pass with a good 120V machine I believe.

I don't believe that 3/8" in one pass is safe on a 110/120v machine.

 

[kjm76]

The 180 is $649, 141 is $675, 190 is $789 and 211 is $915 (and includes a free spoolgun).

Based solely on cost, the 180 is the cheapest. I have read a lot of posts about people starting out with 110v and then making the switch to 220v, so I would just rather go bigger to start. I don't have any plans as of now to do heavy fab but you never know when plans will change.

I see a lot of people on this thread that went with the 211 and are happy. Just wondering if there are equally happy people with the 180 for the lower price point or if the 211 is that much better.

 

[Weber Sarge]

I'd stick with the 211 - it will have a much better duty cycle when it comes time to do heavier work , and that is always the case . Folks always start off light , then start building bumpers and such only to find out the welder isn't up to par . Running a higher rated machine even on light work translates to a machine working under much less stress - and a longer service life . I don't trust 110v units on anything over 3/16" , regardless of what their specs say . You may also consider finding a good used ac-dc or just ac buzz box and learn to stick weld . Proper rod and technique will allow you to weld anything ....
Sarge

 

[e9999]

I don't believe that 3/8" in one pass is safe on a 110/120v machine.

crap, I did it again... I meant 3/16"... dang fractional system... and dyslexia too now it seems...
sorry, will correct above. I'll stick to my question though, why does one need a 240V for body work?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I'll stick to my question though, why does one need a 240V for body work?

You don't need a 220v/240v machine for sheetmetal (body) work. The amperages you're working at are low enough that you can get full penetration on the work pieces with a 110/120v machine.

However, voltage control and feed rate control can be better with more expensive (read 220/240v) machines and thus becomes an advantage when you're trying to vary the amperage output of your machine in small increments at (relatively) low amperage output.

 

[e9999]

that is true but worth that much more $$ both in machine and possibly circuitry?

I will say though that my HH140 listed settings do not go to less than 24ga although that is already pretty thin, likely because it's a tapped system but I imagine one could still do very thin stuff well enough with some practice.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

that is true but worth that much more $$ both in machine and possibly circuitry?

I will say though that my HH140 listed settings do not go to less than 24ga although that is already pretty thin, likely because it's a tapped system but I imagine one could still do very thin stuff well enough with some practice.

That's a good question, and I'm sure the answer varies depending on which specific welders you're comparing. This might get into advantages/disadvantages of transformer versus inverter style welders.

As another interesting tidbit, my Ironman 210 only lists settings down to 22 gauge, so maybe what I said isn't always true!

 

[kjm76]

E9999, I am looking at the Miller 180 (220V) for $649 vs a Miller 141 (110V) is $675. Is there a reason you would pay more for less? I am not trying to be smart but I am a total newb to welding so I am asking for advice, hence me posting on the welding starter thread. Seems like most of the advice on this thread was for the 211, and I am not sure that the people asking were getting into much more than I am - could be wrong. Either way, if I am off base please let me know your recommendations. I looked up the HH 140 and it is $500 but does not have the finite control that many say is important. I get one shot at the welder with the wife looking over my shoulder, so I'd rather take the hit now then go back to well later. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!