SOA Double cardone or starndard drive shaft (1 Viewer)

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So I am finishing up my rear suspension SOA. I went to bolt the old drive shaft on- and the u-joints wont make the steep angle at full droop. I was going to use another toyota driveshaft from the newer toyota trucks with the 45 degree u-joints and just have it shortened. Or I could use a toyota one with the double cardone on one end but then I will have to cut off my spring perches again. Pluses or minuses to either option anybody can think of?
 
I would run the double cardan drive shaft and rotate the differential up to the correct geometry for the DC shaft. The FJ60 front drive shaft works perfect. You may need to swap out the p - brake drum depending on the year of your case to match the bolt pattern, same with the companion flange.
 
I would run the double cardan drive shaft and rotate the differential up to the correct geometry for the DC shaft. The FJ60 front drive shaft works perfect. You may need to swap out the p - brake drum depending on the year of your case to match the bolt pattern, same with the companion flange.
Why do you say that? What is the benefit of that route opposed to the other that you see?
 
Yes, there are other options and this is just my opinion. However, the FJ60 DC drive shaft in the SOA FJ40 is pretty bullet proof. I've used this setup on several rigs with the SBC/4L60 combo where you end up with a very short rear drive shaft and have never had problem. It bolts in (shortened, of course) , you can get parts and they are hella strong.
 
Agree. Early FJ60 front shaft is the bomb in this application, but you need to point the pinion directly and exactly at the t-case output. These shafts are getting hard to find, so buy them up if you see them.
 
geuss i missed the photo part but if you dont rotate the axle up you will never get it to work right ,have run soa for over 35 years and never had any of these problems ,but then we didnt have all the options either and the stock u joints worked fine .
 
wondering whats your (to those who posted ) preferred method to adding the correct oil level in the diff since rotating the diff....

are you guys filling using an upper diff bolt for a new fill point? getting a new cover with a filler higher? add a new filler to steel diff cover? or filling thru a new vent hole that you put on top since you rotated the axle? are you making this larger for easyier fill?

A buddy fills thru the diff cover bolt and adds the correct amount... but... what say you
 
I calculate where the new oil level needs to be then I cut an oval shaped section out of the different cover that includes the existing oil fill bung at one end. Then I flip that piece 180 degrees and weld it back in. Presto! New location that looks OEM after you clean up the weld and paint the cover.
 
I do this on the front axle when I have it stripped down for a C&T. You can buy a weld in bung but then you end up with two holes.
 
I ran a setup on my old Sami very similar - really short dc rear shaft and a rotated third member . Never had time to make a proper check plug up higher , just checked it's oil and did fill ups with the rear up on a set of really tall ramps - took 16" to get the diff leveled correctly for proper oil height .
Sarge
 
Question.. I understand moving the fill plug or at least over filling, but how do you calculate the right amount of oil. What's the proper height after turning the diff.

Thanks,

Ron
 
Thanks Sarge, I just wondered if it was a WAG calculation or had some sound input to figure the oil height. I guess, tilt a little and raise the oil a little.
 
Well I am going to try going with just a regular u-joint at each end first. I am buying a used newer toyota shaft with the 45 degree u joints for cheap tonight. Just need to have it shortened and balanced. I dont feel like cutting my perches off again and then messing with the fill plug. The stock fj40 ujoints only go to like 30 degrees at most. I will have to pull the parking drum off and re-drill some new stud holes.
 
Here is my set up, a double cardan joint, pinion pointed straight at the t-case, I rotated the driveshaft mounting flange 90* and re-drilled the parking brake drum to accept the larger FJ60 bolt pattern and pressed in new mounting studs.
oregano 161 (Medium).jpg
 

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