Official 200 Series Chat and BS Thread (2 Viewers)

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Let the fun begin!





Be sure to mark your parking sensors if you are going to use them. Some people have experienced issues when the sensors were not oriented correctly.



There is some cutting involved. You have to trim the air intake funnels on both sides. Pretty easy.



Disassembly all done. About 2 hours.



My tips. The instructions only have about 60% of the bolts/fasteners identified. There are several that are hidden, like under the headlights. Just go slow and keep looking if something is stuck.

One of the hardest thing is getting the grill off. 2 people make it easier since there are 8 very tight clips along the bottom edge that want to reclip as you move down the line.

Oh yeah, the factory loves thread lock by the way. You will need a breaker bar to pull the factory crash bar.

The bumper and mounts weighs 180 pounds. Im going to weigh the crash bar and removed hardware to see what the net gain is. I am guessing it will be around 150#'s.
 
Let the fun begin!





Be sure to mark your parking sensors if you are going to use them. Some people have experienced issues when the sensors were not oriented correctly.



There is some cutting involved. You have to trim the air intake funnels on both sides. Pretty easy.



Disassembly all done. About 2 hours.



My tips. The instructions only have about 60% of the bolts/fasteners identified. There are several that are hidden, like under the headlights. Just go slow and keep looking if something is stuck.

One of the hardest thing is getting the grill off. 2 people make it easier since there are 8 very tight clips along the bottom edge that want to reclip as you move down the line.

Oh yeah, the factory loves thread lock by the way. You will need a breaker bar to pull the factory crash bar.

The bumper and mounts weighs 180 pounds. Im going to weigh the crash bar and removed hardware to see what the net gain is. I am guessing it will be around 150#'s.
 
Nice weekend project! congrats
 
Nothing like real world experience...thanks!
 
Can someone with a 2008-2011 with stock ride height do me a favor?

I am wondering exactly how much lift I have gained from my IronMan FCPs over stock, and I need to know the distance from the center of the wheel center cap to the lip of the uppermost part of the fender lip on both the front and rear wheels.

Does that make any sense?

It HAS to be a 2008 to 2011, because after that, Toyota started adding those 10mm spacers to the front struts.
 
My experience with Ford is that they are massive P.O.S

Ford Taurus = Giant Turd with tons on trouble
Ford Escape = Tons of suspension problems (struts, shocks, control arms, etc.) both front wheel bearings went out both of which, required entirely new spindle assembly. Burned tons of oil.
Ford Expedition = Air suspension failure
Ford Explorer = Total transmission failure
My 150 that I drive for work has actually been pretty good. The drivetrain has been bulletproof. The interior is so ridiculously cheap though. Lots of things have broken and have begun vibrating. Its super annoying!!!!

No more Fords for our family. :doh:

The Toyota and Hondas that my family and I owned growing up were great though. I will ONLY buy imports for now on.
 
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Can someone with a 2008-2011 with stock ride height do me a favor?

I am wondering exactly how much lift I have gained from my IronMan FCPs over stock, and I need to know the distance from the center of the wheel center cap to the lip of the uppermost part of the fender lip on both the front and rear wheels.

Does that make any sense?

It HAS to be a 2008 to 2011, because after that, Toyota started adding those 10mm spacers to the front struts.

My '08; front 21.5", back 23.5"
 
21.5 stock in the front? Mine was like 19.5 if I recall before my Radflos.
 
That's a big difference!

Well, anywho, my front is at 23" and my rear is at 25", but there is still a bit of a ways to go with spring adjustment.

If I go by @pdxlc200 , I have gotten 3.5" from where it used to sit in the front, and that ain't bad!!! If I go by @Rigger , that is only 1.5" , and I have a hard time believing that I have only gotten that much from my lift!
 
Man rule = round up
 
I put the tape at CL of rim. Measured straight upwards to fender well edge. Lemme check again.
 
Fronts both 21.5 as I reported earlier. Rear DS is 23.5. Rear PS is 23. I got a bit of "Cruiser Lean" going on!!

:hillbilly:
 
My truck has an appointment with Christo Slee, MD. The good doctor is going to do some suspension work and raise her up. Springs, shocks, bull bar, & winch. I'd like some tires, too. 33's perhaps.
 
That's a big difference!

Well, anywho, my front is at 23" and my rear is at 25", but there is still a bit of a ways to go with spring adjustment.

If I go by @pdxlc200 , I have gotten 3.5" from where it used to sit in the front, and that ain't bad!!! If I go by @Rigger , that is only 1.5" , and I have a hard time believing that I have only gotten that much from my lift!


Yah, I sit right at 37 & 3/4 if you measure from the ground on the front driver and passenger sides. My rears are right under 38 on both sides (I'm using the TJM regular load rears vs. the ARB rear springs most of you use).

With that said, I do have a heavy 15K TJM winch, really heavy MetalTech sliders and a roof rack. Dunno, I never can seem to get more than about 3.5 inch lift in the front no matter how much I crank on the coilovers. I have 700 pound, 16 inch springs with about 1.5 inches of thread showing at the top.
 
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