Damn I can't wait to see this thing finished. Keep up the good work!
1JZ VVTi 4Runner 4WD Buildup (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #42
Sorry for the delay guys, here's the video of my start up.
No intercooler/charge pipes yet.
Which is why I have the intake filter and MAF hooked directly to the throttle body, which will create a 'vacuum leak' from the backside of the IAC valve at the back of the manifold, causing a rough idle.
No biggy, you get the idea.
It takes a decent amount of time to compile concise information on how to wire this swap.
So tonight, I will post up more pictures of other tasks like rad mounting and getting the gauges to work while I prepare the ecu wiring portion.
Enjoy!
No intercooler/charge pipes yet.
Which is why I have the intake filter and MAF hooked directly to the throttle body, which will create a 'vacuum leak' from the backside of the IAC valve at the back of the manifold, causing a rough idle.
No biggy, you get the idea.
It takes a decent amount of time to compile concise information on how to wire this swap.
So tonight, I will post up more pictures of other tasks like rad mounting and getting the gauges to work while I prepare the ecu wiring portion.
Enjoy!
It sounds good. Can't wait to see that thing whistle like crazy.
I use to be in the camp of, there's no replacement for displacement. However, I have learned there is...and it's called PSI. At 14 psi, you just doubled the your size of engine.
However, I bet the wiring is daunting. Sounds like you're not scared though, half the battle right there. Looking forward to more updates.
I use to be in the camp of, there's no replacement for displacement. However, I have learned there is...and it's called PSI. At 14 psi, you just doubled the your size of engine.
However, I bet the wiring is daunting. Sounds like you're not scared though, half the battle right there. Looking forward to more updates.
- Thread starter
- #44
Thanks guys.
snobdds, congrats for reaching enlightenment
I have always been in the boost camp. My first car was a 2L Eagle Talon TSI AWD.
Needless to say, after repeatedly roasting peoples' 300-400ci cars with a 122ci car; it was clear to me that turbo was the way to go. Hey, I've no problem with displacement, only thing is, big engines like boost too! hahaha.
To further your comment about atmospeheres, let's take some time and ponder about the tremendous pressure reached within the combustion chamber. A refresher for some. A short lesson for others.
'Compression ratio' is the comparison of volume between a cylinder's largest and smallest capacities.
eg. 10:1 means that when the piston is all the way at BDC, the cylinder has x10 the volume of the same cylinder when the piston is all the way at TDC.
+14.7 psi is one bar (one atmosphere - technically the pressure we are all experiencing this very second, but we won't consider this in our equations, all pressures stated are going to be over and above Earths regular pressure)
'Boost' is the engines intake air charge pressurized by the turbo's compressor.
Boost is multiplied by the compression ratio. Or vice-versa.
So consider 20psi boost on an engine with 10:1 CR.
20psi x 10CR = 200psi.
The BDC total volume is filled with fuel/air, charged to 20psi, then squeezed 10x over, then ignited.
That's an enormous boost in pressure. Hence the term.
Not only does boost increase power and efficiency, but the turbocharger actually creates this boost using already spent energy! An exhausted resource. Pun intended.
Note: Superchargers essentially do the same job, and can be more useful in certain applications.
However this compressor is belt driven rather than exhaust driven. Not using waste energy.
So it's no wonder a 6.7L diesel with 17.3:1 CR and 60psi will make over 1500ft/lbs of torque!
Just don't try put 60psi down the throat of an old 3VZ-E
.
snobdds, congrats for reaching enlightenment
I have always been in the boost camp. My first car was a 2L Eagle Talon TSI AWD.
Needless to say, after repeatedly roasting peoples' 300-400ci cars with a 122ci car; it was clear to me that turbo was the way to go. Hey, I've no problem with displacement, only thing is, big engines like boost too! hahaha.
To further your comment about atmospeheres, let's take some time and ponder about the tremendous pressure reached within the combustion chamber. A refresher for some. A short lesson for others.
'Compression ratio' is the comparison of volume between a cylinder's largest and smallest capacities.
eg. 10:1 means that when the piston is all the way at BDC, the cylinder has x10 the volume of the same cylinder when the piston is all the way at TDC.
+14.7 psi is one bar (one atmosphere - technically the pressure we are all experiencing this very second, but we won't consider this in our equations, all pressures stated are going to be over and above Earths regular pressure)
'Boost' is the engines intake air charge pressurized by the turbo's compressor.
Boost is multiplied by the compression ratio. Or vice-versa.
So consider 20psi boost on an engine with 10:1 CR.
20psi x 10CR = 200psi.
The BDC total volume is filled with fuel/air, charged to 20psi, then squeezed 10x over, then ignited.
That's an enormous boost in pressure. Hence the term.
Not only does boost increase power and efficiency, but the turbocharger actually creates this boost using already spent energy! An exhausted resource. Pun intended.
Note: Superchargers essentially do the same job, and can be more useful in certain applications.
However this compressor is belt driven rather than exhaust driven. Not using waste energy.
So it's no wonder a 6.7L diesel with 17.3:1 CR and 60psi will make over 1500ft/lbs of torque!
Just don't try put 60psi down the throat of an old 3VZ-E
.
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So it's no wonder a 6.7L diesel with 17.3:1 CR and 60psi will make over 1500ft/lbs of torque!
Just don't try put 60psi down the throat of an old 3VZ-E
There is a huge difference between compressing gasoline engines, and compressing diesel engines. Diesel loves it. Gas ... not so much.
- Thread starter
- #46
I know on the Ecoboost, Ford used 6 bolt mains, Forged crank, and rods. They also used piston cooling jets and direct injection. All this technology was taken from the development of the 6.7 diesel. If a gas motor was purpose built for boost, they can be quite strong.
The engine might, but the pump gas ... not. There is a reason forced induction gasoline engines are not over compressed.
- Thread starter
- #49
Absolutely. Ecoboosts are excellent, I have driven the F150 many times, and was quite pleased with the product.
Only thing is, I feel it took Ford and other American manufacturers a long time to 'get it'. Japanese manufacturers were producing HEAPS of very "overbuilt" factory turbo (or twin), forged, and even VVTi engines for decades. When American designed turbo cars from the 80's and 90's can be counted on one hand.
Which is why the turbo JZ engine series is so capable.
Materials. Iron block I6, Forged bottom end, with piston oil jets as well.
*cough cough* -From 1989... 26 years ago. My age coincidentally.
In the province of BC, there is a tuning shop called Forcefed Performance. They have set records with a 2JZ-GTE doing 1099WHP on a factory bottom end. Excuse my language; but it's a fxxxing 20 year old 3L... There are 5 year old 7L American engines that cannot produce 1000WHP on factory rotating assemblies. Over double the displacement, unable to even match the power.
Sorry guys, I know most of you are American
hahaha. Hey, it's a Toyota forum...
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- Thread starter
- #50
Pappy, you hit the nail on the head.
The fuel is the limit.
Gasoline pre-ignites under too much pressure. There are additives and substitutes, but you are still limited by your fuel.
The fuel is the limit.
Gasoline pre-ignites under too much pressure. There are additives and substitutes, but you are still limited by your fuel.
- Thread starter
- #52
I'm surprised they allow for 87 octane with 10:1 and boost. That's pretty good.
JZ CR's vary from 8.5:1 to 11.3:1
Made from 1989-2007.
Some 2500cc, some 3000cc.
Some turbo, some twin, some aspirated.
Some VVTi, some not.
Some direct-injection, some not.
I wish the JZ was still in production. It's too big and too heavy nowadays.
They ran the 1JZ-GTE VVTi until 2007 in Japan.
In North America, we never got the 1J, and only got the 2J either in an N/A form for 10 or so years and a boosted form for 5ish.
JZ CR's vary from 8.5:1 to 11.3:1
Made from 1989-2007.
Some 2500cc, some 3000cc.
Some turbo, some twin, some aspirated.
Some VVTi, some not.
Some direct-injection, some not.
I wish the JZ was still in production. It's too big and too heavy nowadays.
They ran the 1JZ-GTE VVTi until 2007 in Japan.
In North America, we never got the 1J, and only got the 2J either in an N/A form for 10 or so years and a boosted form for 5ish.
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- Thread starter
- #53
Okay, enough blathering.
Is that plumbing pipe?
YES!
Isn't the ID of that pipe too small?
YES!
Shouldn't this engine have an intercooler?
ABSOLUTELY!
Will it work for the meantime?
I hope so.
Interior is together-ish.
First I wired the ECU under the hood to make sure everything ran properly.
It did, so next, I re-worked the computer and its loom into the cab, and proceeded to wire into the ignition switch and gauge cluster.
Only thing is, I didn't want to run the loom over top of the exhaust area, so I ran it under the brake-booster and through the drivers side of the firewall by using a hole-saw to make some more room.
Consequently, the loom is then too short to really stow the computer, relays, and fuses into a comfy spot.
So the ECU and wiring are down by the drivers feet (bottom left of photo).
It's all secure, safe, and somewhat covered, but is ugly.
In the future, I will extend the entire wiring harness roughly 3' in order to re-locate it all into a cozier home.
Please note my beautiful carpet-less cabin.
Body is intact!
The PVC charge pipes were made up so that I could install the MAF in the correct spot, not have vacuum leaks, and actually be able to close the hood while the engine is running.
Hood pins, yes. I am a ricer.
Just kidding. I'm not. I'm a function over fashion type of guy.
The forward rad requires ditching the factory rad support, and with it, the factory hood latch.
I have driven the truck around my neighbourhood, and it drives well.
But today, this was as far as I got hahaha.
These pictures don't do the grade of my driveway any justice at all. It's steep.
It has rained the last 3 days in a row here, so without a front driveshaft yet, I'm stayin' in.
I'm in love.
I'd be deeper in love if that was a solid front axle, locked F&R, and those were 35's.
It never ends, does it?
Is that plumbing pipe?
YES!
Isn't the ID of that pipe too small?
YES!
Shouldn't this engine have an intercooler?
ABSOLUTELY!
Will it work for the meantime?
I hope so.
Interior is together-ish.
First I wired the ECU under the hood to make sure everything ran properly.
It did, so next, I re-worked the computer and its loom into the cab, and proceeded to wire into the ignition switch and gauge cluster.
Only thing is, I didn't want to run the loom over top of the exhaust area, so I ran it under the brake-booster and through the drivers side of the firewall by using a hole-saw to make some more room.
Consequently, the loom is then too short to really stow the computer, relays, and fuses into a comfy spot.
So the ECU and wiring are down by the drivers feet (bottom left of photo).
It's all secure, safe, and somewhat covered, but is ugly.
In the future, I will extend the entire wiring harness roughly 3' in order to re-locate it all into a cozier home.
Please note my beautiful carpet-less cabin.
Body is intact!
The PVC charge pipes were made up so that I could install the MAF in the correct spot, not have vacuum leaks, and actually be able to close the hood while the engine is running.
Hood pins, yes. I am a ricer.
Just kidding. I'm not. I'm a function over fashion type of guy.
The forward rad requires ditching the factory rad support, and with it, the factory hood latch.
I have driven the truck around my neighbourhood, and it drives well.
But today, this was as far as I got hahaha.
These pictures don't do the grade of my driveway any justice at all. It's steep.
It has rained the last 3 days in a row here, so without a front driveshaft yet, I'm stayin' in.
I'm in love.
I'd be deeper in love if that was a solid front axle, locked F&R, and those were 35's.
It never ends, does it?
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
this is awesome .. I've been fan of JZ engines my hole life .. and about pre detonation, we luckily have alcohol injection ..
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- Thread starter
- #55
"My other car's a..."
Just kidding again. I came by the hall so I could use the air tools!
This is the stock 4Runner rad support.
I made some relief cuts and then bent it to 90 degrees.
Chopped off the rest, drilled a hole in the body, bolted 'er up.
Ugly, yes.
Again, function over fashion is my mantra.
And cheap... Cheap is my mantra.
Trimmed the grille mounts to provide some extra wiggle room.
I threw this shot in to show how much the drivetrain was moved rearward.
Had to cut the body and the plastic trim directly behind the tcase shifter.
Just kidding again. I came by the hall so I could use the air tools!
This is the stock 4Runner rad support.
I made some relief cuts and then bent it to 90 degrees.
Chopped off the rest, drilled a hole in the body, bolted 'er up.
Ugly, yes.
Again, function over fashion is my mantra.
And cheap... Cheap is my mantra.
Trimmed the grille mounts to provide some extra wiggle room.
I threw this shot in to show how much the drivetrain was moved rearward.
Had to cut the body and the plastic trim directly behind the tcase shifter.
- Thread starter
- #56
Thanks Tapage, I appreciate your thoughts on my truck, for I revere yours.
Yep! You can always booze 'em!
...
In these pictures I will touch on the gauge aspect. I like factory stuff. Anything that's subtle.
I ripped apart the dash to make the stock gauges work.
Yanked the cluster.
Fuel level and battery voltage are gauges run by the 4Runners body harness.
As well as the Speedo is cable driven on this unit.
So they never lost function.
That leaves the 3 on the left.
Oil pressure, Water temp, and the tachometer.
Which are all run through the 3VZ-E engine harness (which is now absent)
These needed "JZing".
I started to dissect the cluster, starting with the tach.
See the cool clear plastic thing that smears the light behind the gauge face? Cool huh.
Now under that you see the board for the tach.
If you look close at this board you will see the stamps:
-"IGN" in the NW corner (this is the boards power source)
-"GND" in the far east. (the boards ground)
-"P" in the SW corner. (can only be the boards signal)
Pretty basic really.
On the flip side there is a large circuit printed on a sheet.
I found "P", and traced it through the circuit, and found it's pin location at the body wiring clip.
Oil and Water were similar, but even easier. Only two wires each instead of 3.
I found the correct contacts for each gauge, then traced it back through the circuit to find the pin locale.
Bing bang boom...
- Thread starter
- #57
The pin locations showed me which wires to tap into.
(The 3 wires pulled above the rest)
(Your truck could be different, never go off of colours when doing any wiring. Only pin locations! If your colours match anyways? Just call it confirmed.)
There was nothing at the other end of these wires so I ran new ones direct from the sender to the cluster.
Not all sensors/senders work with all gauges.
They have certain parameters that they operate in, and you can fry components as soon as you hit the key if they don't like each other.
I couldn't get any answers on the JZX or VZN parameters to work with; so I thought, hey, they're both Toyota, maybe they are both 1/8th BSPT...
They are.
So I twisted out the JZX one, and twisted in the 4Runner one.
Piece of cake!
Guess what...
Water temp too.
So I'm running factory 4Runner water temp and oil pressure sensors in the 1JZ. I just needed to run single wires from each to the back of the cluster where I had already found their homes.
The tachometer in these engines is signalled by the igniter.
1, 2, 3 wires in from the left is "TAC".
This goes to "P", which was found earlier in the back of the dash.
However, I knew this'd be the tricky one.
Tachs are finicky when it comes to their signals. Things gotta be tickety-boo.
I turned the key to 'ON', and the needle went straight to 3000 rpm and sat there.
I needed some way to tweak the signal.
There is a small potentiometer behind the tach. This can be turned with a tiny phillips head to adjust the signal.
This is what guys do when swapping the 22R-E for a 3VZ-E or vice-versa.
4 cylinders to 6 cylinders requires something.
I thought maybe I'd get lucky because they are both sixes.
No luck. Nor any luck with the potentiometer. No influence on the needle at all.
So the tach is currently inop while I wait to install a small signal adapter.
About $80, basically will work any tach with any engine.
No freebie this time. (photo from yotatech)
(The 3 wires pulled above the rest)
(Your truck could be different, never go off of colours when doing any wiring. Only pin locations! If your colours match anyways? Just call it confirmed.)
There was nothing at the other end of these wires so I ran new ones direct from the sender to the cluster.
Not all sensors/senders work with all gauges.
They have certain parameters that they operate in, and you can fry components as soon as you hit the key if they don't like each other.
I couldn't get any answers on the JZX or VZN parameters to work with; so I thought, hey, they're both Toyota, maybe they are both 1/8th BSPT...
They are.
So I twisted out the JZX one, and twisted in the 4Runner one.
Piece of cake!
Guess what...
Water temp too.
So I'm running factory 4Runner water temp and oil pressure sensors in the 1JZ. I just needed to run single wires from each to the back of the cluster where I had already found their homes.
The tachometer in these engines is signalled by the igniter.
1, 2, 3 wires in from the left is "TAC".
This goes to "P", which was found earlier in the back of the dash.
However, I knew this'd be the tricky one.
Tachs are finicky when it comes to their signals. Things gotta be tickety-boo.
I turned the key to 'ON', and the needle went straight to 3000 rpm and sat there.
I needed some way to tweak the signal.
There is a small potentiometer behind the tach. This can be turned with a tiny phillips head to adjust the signal.
This is what guys do when swapping the 22R-E for a 3VZ-E or vice-versa.
4 cylinders to 6 cylinders requires something.
I thought maybe I'd get lucky because they are both sixes.
No luck. Nor any luck with the potentiometer. No influence on the needle at all.
So the tach is currently inop while I wait to install a small signal adapter.
About $80, basically will work any tach with any engine.
No freebie this time. (photo from yotatech)
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- Thread starter
- #58
Here's another short clip.
This is me not making it out of the driveway hahaha.
Firing by key.
Water temp works.
Oil pressure works.
Tachometer at 3000.
Dash now featuring white lights!
The tranny is clunky because the clutch needs to be bled one more time.
Enjoy!
Do I get an award for best film making?
Okay, now that's enough for one day.
This is me not making it out of the driveway hahaha.
Firing by key.
Water temp works.
Oil pressure works.
Tachometer at 3000.
Dash now featuring white lights!
The tranny is clunky because the clutch needs to be bled one more time.
Enjoy!
Do I get an award for best film making?
Okay, now that's enough for one day.
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- Thread starter
- #59
UPDATE!
I have put 1800 kms on the truck now. Lots of fun.
In that time, I encountered a couple more hiccups as expected.
An oil leak from the oil filter pedestal.
A harsh fuel cut.
A charging issue. (resolved)
Here's a few old pics of the exhaust work.
Back to the FAB shop.
Factory JZX100 o2 Housing.
The 3-bolt flange to the factory downpipe was cut off.
2.5" Turbo back is the idea.
Purchased some 2.5" diameter mild steel in a large U-Bend.
In this picture, it appears as if the downpipe is a smaller diameter than the exit of the o2 housing.
However the ID's of each are a match at 2.5". So it worked out perfectly.
Again, Spencer Hogg did all the fab work.
The plan was to make a solid, short downpipe.
Then use its' outlet to attach a 10' length of universal flexible 2.5" exhaust.
I've been made fun of before when it comes to this product..
But I don't care, because I can't find any holes in my logic when using it for my application.
The exhaust costed $50, start to finish.
-Is flexible,
-therefore easy to install (5-10min)
-backed up by it's ability to 'bend' around ground obstacles, reducing the risk of damage.
-if damaged, it can be easily cut, and rejoined with a small 2.5" stub pipe and two clamps.
-requires no welding.
-attaches to the downpipe with one clamp.
Now after exhausting all of my reasons for choosing it, I realize I don't have a picture of it hahaha.
The downpipe was wrapped as well to drop the temps under hood. Plus, mild steel is ugly.
In a nights work...
Consider this; I haven't installed an engine fan yet. The turbo JZ, using a factory 4runner rad and no fan, has never over heated in the 1800km career. I'm sure my TMIC hole in the hood is helping; but the majority of the low engine bay temps is owed to the wrapped manifold and downpipe, installed underneath the factory heat shielding.
I have put 1800 kms on the truck now. Lots of fun.
In that time, I encountered a couple more hiccups as expected.
An oil leak from the oil filter pedestal.
A harsh fuel cut.
A charging issue. (resolved)
Here's a few old pics of the exhaust work.
Back to the FAB shop.
Factory JZX100 o2 Housing.
The 3-bolt flange to the factory downpipe was cut off.
2.5" Turbo back is the idea.
Purchased some 2.5" diameter mild steel in a large U-Bend.
In this picture, it appears as if the downpipe is a smaller diameter than the exit of the o2 housing.
However the ID's of each are a match at 2.5". So it worked out perfectly.
Again, Spencer Hogg did all the fab work.
The plan was to make a solid, short downpipe.
Then use its' outlet to attach a 10' length of universal flexible 2.5" exhaust.
I've been made fun of before when it comes to this product..
But I don't care, because I can't find any holes in my logic when using it for my application.
The exhaust costed $50, start to finish.
-Is flexible,
-therefore easy to install (5-10min)
-backed up by it's ability to 'bend' around ground obstacles, reducing the risk of damage.
-if damaged, it can be easily cut, and rejoined with a small 2.5" stub pipe and two clamps.
-requires no welding.
-attaches to the downpipe with one clamp.
Now after exhausting all of my reasons for choosing it, I realize I don't have a picture of it hahaha.
The downpipe was wrapped as well to drop the temps under hood. Plus, mild steel is ugly.
In a nights work...
Consider this; I haven't installed an engine fan yet. The turbo JZ, using a factory 4runner rad and no fan, has never over heated in the 1800km career. I'm sure my TMIC hole in the hood is helping; but the majority of the low engine bay temps is owed to the wrapped manifold and downpipe, installed underneath the factory heat shielding.
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- Thread starter
- #60
Cool Cooler.
A 3rd 4runner arrives on scene. Headgaskets are
The intercooler is hard mounted to the firewall, and then two small metal brackets were made up to support the weight of the front.
During the install we realized that the factory 'hot pipe' would work a lot better if it was turned around.
It used to face forward, was longer, and had a hose nipple for the integrated bypass valve.
So we took it off, cut it shorter, and turned it 180* to face the rear.
By cutting it shorter, we lost the outlet for the bypass valve. So a small block-off plate was made to seal the two-bolt flange on the intake pipe.
No more blow-off.
All flutter
I would rather have compressor surge and have a fully closed-loop system than have a vented blow-off valve.
I've witnessed competition turbo cars have no blow-off valves, be beaten hard, compressor surge constantly, and never replace a turbo. So I'm not worried about this until I get a proper re-circulating blow-off valve and real piping made. A lot of noobs seem to make too big of a deal out of blow-off valves...
Plumbing pipes...
...Really?
.........Still?
............Yep.
Mario Bros. Specialty Plumbing Pipes v2.0
Boss Imports Headquarters, WK, BC.
JZN131
JZX90
JZX100
JZX100
ST205
SO MUCH FUN!
Can someone please come and cut off my hitch?
A 3rd 4runner arrives on scene. Headgaskets are
The intercooler is hard mounted to the firewall, and then two small metal brackets were made up to support the weight of the front.
During the install we realized that the factory 'hot pipe' would work a lot better if it was turned around.
It used to face forward, was longer, and had a hose nipple for the integrated bypass valve.
So we took it off, cut it shorter, and turned it 180* to face the rear.
By cutting it shorter, we lost the outlet for the bypass valve. So a small block-off plate was made to seal the two-bolt flange on the intake pipe.
No more blow-off.
All flutter
I would rather have compressor surge and have a fully closed-loop system than have a vented blow-off valve.
I've witnessed competition turbo cars have no blow-off valves, be beaten hard, compressor surge constantly, and never replace a turbo. So I'm not worried about this until I get a proper re-circulating blow-off valve and real piping made. A lot of noobs seem to make too big of a deal out of blow-off valves...
Plumbing pipes...
...Really?
.........Still?
............Yep.
Mario Bros. Specialty Plumbing Pipes v2.0
Boss Imports Headquarters, WK, BC.
JZN131
JZX90
JZX100
JZX100
ST205
SO MUCH FUN!
Can someone please come and cut off my hitch?
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