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Mike, awesome thread here and I've been lurking for awhile...
Quick question: since you're R&R'ing your turbos yourself, what's your plan for balancing the assemblies? Do you have a way to do it at your home shop?
I rebuilt my turbo, but chickened out when I learned the compressor wheel can distort a few thousandths if it's really out of balance and "auto clearance" itself. In my case, probably money well spent.
Quick question: since you're R&R'ing your turbos yourself, what's your plan for balancing the assemblies? Do you have a way to do it at your home shop?
I rebuilt my turbo, but chickened out when I learned the compressor wheel can distort a few thousandths if it's really out of balance and "auto clearance" itself. In my case, probably money well spent.
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- Thread starter
- #2,243
For the small turbo I was more concerned so I made marks for aligning the compressor wheel, turbine shaft, and lock nut. Took me two or three tries upon reassembly but all the marks lined back up. This works because I wasn't replacing either wheel or shaft.
For the big turbo (the Holset) I wasn't worried because the components are individually balanced.
I have swapped wheels before on my other Holset without any issues and it provided years of reliable work.
For the big turbo (the Holset) I wasn't worried because the components are individually balanced.
I have swapped wheels before on my other Holset without any issues and it provided years of reliable work.
WHOA! That is some serious boost.
Seriously, 18 psi is where mine tops off.
And I thought I was low at 35psi! At 18psi your turbo is barely spooled up!
I disinfected the waste gate air line. Still opens up at 18 psi
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- Apr 4, 2006
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Spy photos from today's beach clean up on the Oregon coast.
I'm seriously impressed how Mike's beast CHARGED up the summit (pulling a trailer too)on the way over. My dodge hemi had to shift down a few times just to keep up!!!
I'm seriously impressed how Mike's beast CHARGED up the summit (pulling a trailer too)on the way over. My dodge hemi had to shift down a few times just to keep up!!!
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Lookin tough!
What exactly did you do with the turbos? Just seals?
What exactly did you do with the turbos? Just seals?
- Thread starter
- #2,251
Backing up a little to the fuel pressure gauge.
There is a bleed port on the bolt fastening the hardline out of the main filter to the injection pump. Geno's garage has a replacement bolt for a reasonable price but I opted to drill mine out and tap it for 1/8npt. I hooked up the gauge for a test but the needle bounced excessively. I took the gauge off and plugged the port until I could get something to calm the pump pulses. Looked and called several local places for a needle valve with 1/8npt male to 1/8npt female with no luck. It became easier and cheaper to just grab one from ebay.
Stuck the needle valve in front of the fuel pressure gauge.
To get it to fit I needed to move the bracket behind the dipstick over for clearance. A new hole and a bolt and it was done.
I tried it with the needle valve just 1/4 turn open down to closed and the gauge needle just bounces/vibrates from about 15 to about 20 at idle. A recent look at the gauge shows it's getting trashed so this setup is not working out so well. I'm wondering if I need to run a fuel line off the needle valve and locate a gauge off the motor to allow it to survive. Might be too late for this gauge so I'll have to try this when I find another gauge.
There is a bleed port on the bolt fastening the hardline out of the main filter to the injection pump. Geno's garage has a replacement bolt for a reasonable price but I opted to drill mine out and tap it for 1/8npt. I hooked up the gauge for a test but the needle bounced excessively. I took the gauge off and plugged the port until I could get something to calm the pump pulses. Looked and called several local places for a needle valve with 1/8npt male to 1/8npt female with no luck. It became easier and cheaper to just grab one from ebay.
Stuck the needle valve in front of the fuel pressure gauge.
To get it to fit I needed to move the bracket behind the dipstick over for clearance. A new hole and a bolt and it was done.
I tried it with the needle valve just 1/4 turn open down to closed and the gauge needle just bounces/vibrates from about 15 to about 20 at idle. A recent look at the gauge shows it's getting trashed so this setup is not working out so well. I'm wondering if I need to run a fuel line off the needle valve and locate a gauge off the motor to allow it to survive. Might be too late for this gauge so I'll have to try this when I find another gauge.
- Thread starter
- #2,252
Rebuild kit that fits my TD04HL-16T came in.
Rebuild kit for my HE351VE VGT arrived too. This one was a bit more expensive since it has the shaft seals for the VGT collar.
Both were purchased from ebay.
During the wait I took my 5x.012 injectors in the Midwest Injection (a local branch) and had the pop pressure reset to 255 bar. He also cleaned them up and had them ready the next day. I also picked up thin washers .020 and regular washers .060 because mine had stopped sealing as well. I ended up using the .060's.
I called around on the turbine shaft/wheel and found out that holset does not sell this part separately so the only option was aftermarket.
The first turbine wheel/shaft came in and I ordered it from BAEturbosystem as there website listed the correct dimensions. It was nicely packaged but there was no communication about when it would ship or a tracking number. I called a couple of times about it and was told they'd call back but they never did.
However, the packaging had a different part number on it than their website and one of the dimensions was different from their website, what I expected that I ordered. The tip height was suppose to be 8mm but instead the wheel I got listed it as 8.5mm (different from dimensions listed on their website). Even though it was only .5mm that made the difference once assembled the shaft would not spin, the turbo would produce no boost, the wheel was contacting the exhaust housing. With a fine eye you can see the height difference in the pic. Bum wheel on the left.
Being in a time crunch I debated on what to do since the likelihood of this company communicating with me about a bum part they sent me was probably not going to get resolved quickly. I thought about having the turbine wheel machined but was told it was cheaper to just order another one. I thought about getting the exhaust housing machined but then I'm modifying the housing to only accept this bum wheel and if I had to replace it again for whatever reason I'd be screwed. Replacement HE351ve's are not cheap anymore. In the end after communication with another vendor I ordered another turbine wheel/shaft which came in, fit as expected, and produces boost.
The BAEturbosystem turbine shaft is packaged and ready to ship back. Of course none of my phone calls or emails have been answered so I have disputed this charge with my credit card company and we'll see where it goes from here. So far the absolute lack of any communication from this company and a faulty part has given me enough reason to never do business with this company again. You call into a call center, they take your information and say you'll get called back but nothing ever happens.
Moving on, with the turbo's back together and working I took the truck for a drive and my boost drop symptoms are still there. I was starting to feel a little more like this:
Rebuild kit for my HE351VE VGT arrived too. This one was a bit more expensive since it has the shaft seals for the VGT collar.
Both were purchased from ebay.
During the wait I took my 5x.012 injectors in the Midwest Injection (a local branch) and had the pop pressure reset to 255 bar. He also cleaned them up and had them ready the next day. I also picked up thin washers .020 and regular washers .060 because mine had stopped sealing as well. I ended up using the .060's.
I called around on the turbine shaft/wheel and found out that holset does not sell this part separately so the only option was aftermarket.
The first turbine wheel/shaft came in and I ordered it from BAEturbosystem as there website listed the correct dimensions. It was nicely packaged but there was no communication about when it would ship or a tracking number. I called a couple of times about it and was told they'd call back but they never did.
However, the packaging had a different part number on it than their website and one of the dimensions was different from their website, what I expected that I ordered. The tip height was suppose to be 8mm but instead the wheel I got listed it as 8.5mm (different from dimensions listed on their website). Even though it was only .5mm that made the difference once assembled the shaft would not spin, the turbo would produce no boost, the wheel was contacting the exhaust housing. With a fine eye you can see the height difference in the pic. Bum wheel on the left.
Being in a time crunch I debated on what to do since the likelihood of this company communicating with me about a bum part they sent me was probably not going to get resolved quickly. I thought about having the turbine wheel machined but was told it was cheaper to just order another one. I thought about getting the exhaust housing machined but then I'm modifying the housing to only accept this bum wheel and if I had to replace it again for whatever reason I'd be screwed. Replacement HE351ve's are not cheap anymore. In the end after communication with another vendor I ordered another turbine wheel/shaft which came in, fit as expected, and produces boost.
The BAEturbosystem turbine shaft is packaged and ready to ship back. Of course none of my phone calls or emails have been answered so I have disputed this charge with my credit card company and we'll see where it goes from here. So far the absolute lack of any communication from this company and a faulty part has given me enough reason to never do business with this company again. You call into a call center, they take your information and say you'll get called back but nothing ever happens.
Moving on, with the turbo's back together and working I took the truck for a drive and my boost drop symptoms are still there. I was starting to feel a little more like this:
Last edited:
Backing up a little to the fuel pressure gauge.
There is a bleed port on the bolt fastening the hardline out of the main filter to the injection pump. Geno's garage has a replacement bolt for a reasonable price but I opted to drill mine out and tap it for 1/8npt. I hooked up the gauge for a test but the needle bounced excessively. I took the gauge off and plugged the port until I could get something to calm the pump pulses. Looked and called several local places for a needle valve with 1/8npt male to 1/8npt female with no luck. It became easier and cheaper to just grab one from ebay.
Stuck the needle valve in front of the fuel pressure gauge.
To get it to fit I needed to move the bracket behind the dipstick over for clearance. A new hole and a bolt and it was done.
I tried it with the needle valve just 1/4 turn open down to closed and the gauge needle just bounces/vibrates from about 15 to about 20 at idle. A recent look at the gauge shows it's getting trashed so this setup is not working out so well. I'm wondering if I need to run a fuel line off the needle valve and locate a gauge off the motor to allow it to survive. Might be too late for this gauge so I'll have to try this when I find another gauge.
I chose the same location for my fuel pressure gauge read location. I did not think, however, that there would be enough room to drill and tap that banjo bolt for a 1/8" NPT. I'm going to do that.
This is the route I'm going to take. Put a brass nipple on the banjo bolt with a short length of fuel line to a T, one of which is a gauge (or gauge sender) and the other leg of the T as your bleeder:
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showt...30-PSI-analog-amp-digital-fuel-pressure-gauge
Why did I not think to drill out the banjo bolt to 1/8" NPT before buying adapters to go from M6 to 1/8" NPT?
Had the same exact issue with baeturbosystem. They sent me a part that did not fit and it took them a month to refund my money and that was after the credit card company got involved. In the meanwhile they would not answer my calls or accept responsibility.Rebuild kit that fits my TD04HL-16T came in.
Rebuild kit for my HE351VE VGT arrived too. This one was a bit more expensive since it has the shaft seals for the VGT collar.
Both were purchased from ebay.
During the wait I took my 5x.012 injectors in the Midwest Injection (a local branch) and had the pop pressure reset to 255 bar. He also cleaned them up and had them ready the next day. I also picked up thin washers .020 and regular washers .060 because mine had stopped sealing as well. I ended up using the .060's.
I called around on the turbine shaft/wheel and found out that holset does not sell this part separately so the only option was aftermarket.
The first turbine wheel/shaft came in and I ordered it from BAEturbosystem as there website listed the correct dimensions. It was nicely packaged but there was no communication about when it would ship or a tracking number. I called a couple of times about it and was told they'd call back but they never did.
However, the packaging had a different part number on it than their website and one of the dimensions was different from their website, what I expected that I ordered. The tip height was suppose to be 8mm but instead the wheel I got listed it as 8.5mm (different from dimensions listed on their website). Even though it was only .5mm that made the difference once assembled the shaft would not spin, the turbo would produce no boost, the wheel was contacting the exhaust housing. With a find eye you can see the height difference in the pic. Bum wheel on the left.
Being in a time crunch I debated on what to do since the likelihood of this company communicating with me about a bum part they sent me was probably not going to get resolved quickly. I thought about having the turbine wheel machined but was told it was cheaper to just order another one. I thought about getting the exhaust housing machined but then I'm modifying the housing to only accept this bum wheel and if I had to replace it again for whatever reason I'd be screwed. Replacement HE351ve's are not cheap anymore. In the end after communication with another vendor I ordered another turbine wheel/shaft which came in, fit as expected, and produces boost.
The BAEturbosystem turbine shaft is packaged and ready to ship back. Of course none of my phone calls or emails have been answered so I have disputed this charge with my credit card company and we'll see where it goes from here. So far the absolute lack of any communication from this company and a faulty part has given me enough reason to never do business with this company again. You call into a call center, they take your information and say you'll get called back but nothing ever happens.
Moving on, with the turbo's back together and working I took the truck for a drive and my boost drop symptoms are still there. I was starting to feel a little more like this:
- Thread starter
- #2,255
Customer service doesn't seem to be their strong suit. I would have somewhat expected this from an ebay company but this place looked a little more legit with them being their own company. I should have researched them a little better before purchasing from them. Our stories are not unique to this company. I suppose that education does cost something, in this case money.
- Thread starter
- #2,256
Thanks for the link. It looks like he had a fuel line coming off the banjo bolt with the sender isolated from the engine. Hopefully that will help in my setup.
There wasn't much meat left over after drilling out the bolt to tap for 1/8npt. Be ready if it cracks but happy if it doesn't. I was also careful on how tight I got it upon install.
Exactly. He had brazed on a brass nipple whereas I was originally going to use adapters. Either way, isolates the sender/gauge from motor vibration.
I just checked my engine on quickserve, says the minimum fuel pressure is 25 PSI for automotive and 12 PSI for industrial. I'm not sure if the different pumps we have give different ratings. What's your minimum PSI rating for your engine?
Your p-pump engine requires, or can handle depending how you look at it, more fuel pressure than the VE pumps that @boots4 and I have.
I get that, I'm just wondering what the "normal" fuel pressure should be for a rotary pump. After reading Boots4's post I'm curious to find out what fuel pressure my 4bt is giving out. Maybe next payday.
Side note, I would also be interested to see a compound turbo 4bt with a methanol injection kit. You can really feel the extra HP and boost the engine gives off, and I'm still just at 20 PSI of boost. So Boots4 if you still want easy power gains, methanol is the way to go. Either way, great build.