Builds '97 FZJ-80 Build - Mouse (1 Viewer)

[murf]

Great progress, I agree with your idea to have the injectors serviced while there. Are you going to also repl the heater hoses on the back firewall?

Post up what the work you have done on the head.

 

[Fourt7]

Better pictures of the head gasket.

 

[Fourt7]

 

[Fourt7]

Here is cylinder 3 with the low compression. Sorry the lighting sucks.

 

[Fourt7]

EGR wires actually look pretty good but I'll still unwrap them, inspect them, and retape them.

 

[Fourt7]

Great progress, I agree with your idea to have the injectors serviced while there. Are you going to also repl the heater hoses on the back firewall?

Post up what the work you have done on the head.

Yes I'll do the heater hoses. I split one of them trying to get it off. I'm committed now.

 

[Gilbylandcruiser]

Cylinders look ok. When mine went , cylinders 5 & 6 were sparkling clean from the coolant breaking everything down. HG does not look blown but the slightest defection in it will be enough.

 

[Fourt7]

Here's the latest and it's not good. I took the head to a machine shop recommended by a fellow mudder. The guy was great. He looked the head over really closely with me. He immediately was able to point out stuff I had completely missed.

We studied the head gasket side closely and he showed me several places where the gasket was failing.

He told me though that that wasn't his primary concern. On the top of the head between 1 and 2 the head was really shiny and clean. He said this head likely has a crack in it and that's where the coolant is coming from.

He asked for specifics about the engine over heating and I couldn't offer much other than the radiator being replaced. He indicated it was likely over heated and that the head is very likely warped and cracked.

I also had him look at my pictures of the lines warn into my cylinders. He said the rings are likely gone in number 3 which would explain the lack of compression.

Ultimately it's highly likely I have a bad head and a block that needs a rebuild.

Together we came up with a game plan. He would measure the head for warpage and IF it's okay he would pressure test it. IF that's okay we would proceed from there.

Such a bummer. I should have just driven it as is and enjoyed it until it died.

I'm trying to decide what to do from here. Obviously I'll wait until I hear back from him. Perhaps I'll just part it out and try to recover some of my money.

 

[1973Guppie]

make sure you get a 2nd opinion, and make sure that each place does a magnaflux to actually show you if and where the head is cracked.....

 

[scrowley]

Sry for the bad news. Don't give up. Just toss in a used engine.

 

[BILT4ME]

If the head is aluminum, they can't magnaflux it, they will have to do dye penetrant. Magnaflux only works on cast iron heads.

 

[voorland80]

Sry for the bad news. Don't give up. Just toss in a used engine.

^^^x2^^^
Don't give up.

 

[Onefastrx7turbo]

I wish I was closer to my V8 swap. My motor set is strong and only has 170K on it. If the head checks bad, I'd just pull the block out and swap engines. Then you can either rebuild the worn engine or part it out...

 

[1973Guppie]

If the head is aluminum, they can't magnaflux it, they will have to do dye penetrant. Magnaflux only works on cast iron heads.

correct, my brain was stuck on "2F mode" for a moment there, lol......

 

[Fourt7]

I decided to do a little work on the cruiser. Although I was able to get the head out without removing the radiator I decided to remove it given that I may be removing the entire block soon.

Some moron installed an after market radiator which required removing the head lights and the AC radiator in order to get to the bolts to remove it.

Also when I dumped the remaining coolant from the radiator I noticed my coolant in the bucket had been sitting long enough to separate. It has a distinct layer of oil on top of it. Guess I could have looked at that without the blackstone a analysis.

I'm determined to make this work. I've decided to slow down and fix all the stupid things I find that need attention on the way.

I called all over the place looking for a used 1fzfe. Man they are hard to come by.

I also found a rusty pair of pliers wedged between the radiator and the frame tonight. Go figure.

 

[wlittleman]

When you dumped the coolant, you didn't by chance dump the oil from the oil cooler hose in there too, correct? Because that's what I did, and I was puzzled as to why my coolant was so oily.

 

[Fourt7]

When you dumped the coolant, you didn't by chance dump the oil from the oil cooler hose in there too, correct? Because that's what I did, and I was puzzled as to why my coolant was so oily.

Good question. No I haven't disconnect it yet. In fact I finally got the radiator unbolted but still have the AT cooler lines still connected as well as the oil cooler lines. I tilted the radiator enough to drain what remained and that's when I noticed all the oil in there.

I also pulled the coolant reservoir tank and dumped it in the same bucket. It may have come from in there.

Any idea how to thoroughly clean the radiator and that reservoir?

 

[bajaphile]

You've got this far, why not just rebuild the bottom end? I'd rather do that and know everything is done rather than risking this happening all over with a used motor.

 

[murf]

weve done probably 50 1zfe headgaskets over the years and these engines are tough and tractor like. Ive never seen a cracked 1zfe head that I can remember. Did it ever get severely hot on you? If your cylinder wall(s) are scored, it sounds like it . Agree with Guppie about a second opinion.

 

[Fourt7]

Murf. I wish I knew. I bought it Jan of this year. I know the radiator has been replaced which leads me to believe it has over heated at some point. It hasn't over heated on me.

As far as the head goes there appears to be larges bolts on the head under the cams (not the head bolts). The one closest to the front of the head is where everything has a washed appearance. The guy mentioned it may be that bolt that has failed.