Problem or no.... (1 Viewer)

[LAgallegos]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the hard line hoses that go to the Trans cooler should disconnect here >>
I ask because these suckers won't move. they're frozen together. I've soaked them in PB for the last couple hours, even tried heating them with a heat gun. Nothin.

How the last person attached the Radiator makes it so I have to get the trans cooler out of the way to fully disconnect the raid bolts from the frame.

I got an impact gun from HF, so after I get the raid out of the way hopefully I'll get this sucker off.

 

[LAgallegos]

Update: I got the two pipes separated. Nothing a little blow torch couldn't handle. Pulled the trans cooler out, and the raid. Plenty of room for the impact gun, but it still didn't budge. i blow torched it, hit it with a hammer, and still it hasn't moved. I'm gonna see if I can borrow a bigger impact wrench from a friend and see where that gets me.

 

[Stumpalama]

Have you tried the starter trick again, now that you have the rad out of the way?

 

[Slow Left]

Have you tried positioning the breaker bar to the PS side so that it hits the PS frame rail? The engine rotates CW under cranking by the starter; when I used that starter trick to break the harmonic balance nut free, I positioned the arm of the breaker bar to the PS side (I can't remember if I had to slide a hollow pipe over the end of the bar to give it more length or not). It seems like the way you had it set on the DS makes for weird leverage...given the rotation direction of the crank.

Also, make sure that the arm of the breaker bar is perfectly parallel with the face of the harmonic balance pulley, so that there are no off-axis forces working on the torque arm (breaker bar).

 

[Stumpalama]

Just to be clear, the engine turns clockwise when you are looking at it from the front.

 

[LAgallegos]

Real Time question-- Should I put gasket sealer on the new Timing Cover gasket?

ps. I got it off. I'll post updates/pictures tonight

 

[Stumpalama]

I believe it goes on dry. Pay close attention to the torque specs of the bolts. Those specs are based on the ideal "squish" of the gasket.

 

[LAgallegos]

I believe it goes on dry. Pay close attention to the torque specs of the bolts. Those specs are based on the ideal "squish" of the gasket.

Alright thanks, I ended up putting a little bit of sealant on because I couldn't find anything that said otherwise.

Whats the best way to get the HB/crank pulley back on? Just hitting it with a rubber mallet till I can crank it down with the nut?

 

[Slow Left]

see post #8 here for a link to a tool to help reinstall the harmonic balance:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2f-harmonic-balancer-issue.824566/

It's not a good idea to use a hammer; you don't want to hammer on the crank shaft or force the harmonic balance over the key at the wrong angle, it might destroy the key.

FWIW, I was able to use a block of wood across the face of the harmonic balance and pressed on the wood with the OEM bottle jack (hydraulic jack). I'd purchase the tool mentioned in the thread and only try the bottle jack trick as a hail mary/last resort kinda thing.

 

[Jokenring]

That wasn't a transmission cooler you took out. That was the A/C condenser.

 

[mtnphilosopher]

there is an outfit in WA that rebuilds the balancers...new rubber damper and all. fairly inexpensive if I recall..will try to find the link...

These are the two western US places I found:
http://hbrepair.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm
http://www.damperdoctor.com/

Anyone tried this before? I, too, have the wobbles (again). Am thinking of putting on a spare two-groove pulley from a donor '83 (no AC), then sending mine off to be rebuilt.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I believe I talked to the couple that runs the outfit in the first link. I haven't sent in a spare for rebuild yet, but that is my plan...