Builds Shipwreck (4 Viewers)

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So I'm not sure if I missed it or what but did you build your own link suspension? As in not use a kit for any parts.
 
Mudder said:
So I'm not sure if I missed it or what but did you build your own link suspension? As in not use a kit for any parts.
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I bought brackets from Competition engineering, ballistic fab, and.... hmmm, there was one more - can't remember. I do so many suspensions that am starting to forget all the people... on top of this, I also had some parts custom built from a laser shop near me... most of the store bought ones were modified or are going to be modified (for example, the link brackets don't clear the zerk fittings - so I need to do some clearancing).

The design itself really isn't treading any new ground, but since I don't want a short-bus length wheelbase (which seems to be a requirement on Pirate), there were changes to what most seem to be doing.

the short answer is I started with a couple kits from competition engineering - then modified them to work in what I'm building.
 
Last night, I didn't have the axle, so I spent some time working on the flare and what's going to happen at the corner... it's not as bad as I originally thought, so I'll simply weld in a couple patches after cutting out the rust

I kept look at this, and feel it is too high


of course, the problem with lowering it is now it's below the rear corner


but I have a few ideas - so stay tuned for those
first is to work on the rust


it's bent in, but it's unnoticable so I'll simply fix the lower spot... of course I'll also move it back out - I'm going to cut the fender from the inner fender anyway because I think on both sides of the wheel there would be a great spot to put some inside-accessible storage boxes


the other side isn't anywhere near as bad


hey, there's the missing axle


so I started eyeballing it into position


here's where the discussion came with the axle guy - he couldn't figure out why I needed the pumpkin to be under the frame.... because otherwise the driveshaft will be about center of the oil pan


front angles are going to be nice


 
Price comparison...

I need to buy rotors and lug studs (though specialized studs).

RockAuto $30.00 plus $15 shipping for the rotors and $2.50/stud but you have to buy a box of 20.... $125.00 plus you get to wait a week
Amazon $42.00, free shipping, $2.50/stud but you can buy "each" plus tax ... $135.00 and I'll have half the order in 2 days, the studs in a week
Napa $50, no shipping, studs $2 each plus tax... $145... best part is I know the studs are right.... odds are, had I ordered the studs, I'd get to order once if not twice more to get the right ones....

Point is, sometimes it's good to compare the relative costs because you'll find that the shop that's close will save you money in the end...
 
CreeperSleeper said:
You know, if you stretched your WB out a bit more, the flares wouldn't look so high. :flipoff2:
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then paint it yellow and it'd fit right in on Pirate. :worms:


I just don't get it - but I have a theory - I never rode the short bus; so it only stands to reason I don't get along with the ones who did (and who have their own special section on Pirate).
 
no better or worse then the ICON I copied or the Jeep that what's his name just built on Extreme... you all talk like this is hard - the only hard part is dealing with the turkeys who want you to fail.

I do owe Pirate this, my wife is quite irritated at me because I put her JK (and the Land Rover) on hold to get this done...
 
White Stripe said:
Have u seen any other 40s running those flares? Would like to see pics n see what it looks like
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check out post #194
14Jun03-10.jpg
 
More boring, NTRC (not toyota related crap)
I built this a couple years ago fun build - CR250 lightness CRF250 suspension upgrades with CR500 hp and torque.

and the clutch never worked right.... turns out it really didn't have a clutch given how worn it was...
how worn it was, the new hinson basket is on top... I honestly believe that when I pull the clutch, nothing occurred in the clutch basket - it simply stretched the cable and the motor was over coming the frictions... it was pretty bad

.... of course, I'm certain that there are some who don't believe the CR500af works either... :flipoff2:

anyway, back to the original programming.

irony, sell the lathe because you haven't used it since you bought it, the next project you'd have used it all the time... oh well, can't have everything.

thank heavens I marked Left - of course, I'd forgotten I'd marked it, so I saw the "L" but then second guessed.... fortunately, the guy who cut the welds on the Cs had marred the left side and that mark was easily identifiable...


I have new rotors coming today along with the correct studs (ford used 1/2" studs, the rear are 9/16 - so I got 9/16 for the front).

If you look closely, you'll see I made a slight error - I tacked the panhard bracket together backward


easier to see here - gives the turkeys something to rejoice about


So I'm still waffling... I could use coil springs for the front, or go the easy route and do coil overs... the issue is that bracket for the panhard bar - it can't go where it's "supposed" to go... so I dunno... at this point I just need to set the pinion angle and the castor for the Cs - once that's done then I'll decide. So far everything lines up like I expected
 
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