New Engine, Hard Warm Starts (1 Viewer)

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JIB

Joined
Jan 29, 2015
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Hi all, I'm new to this forum and would greatly appreciate any thoughts/opinions on our situation.

We have a 1998 Tacoma 3.4L V6 4wd TRD Off Road Automatic with 195,000 miles.

On 11/30/14, we burned a hole in piston #3. The cause was thought to be failing fuel injectors.

After ~2-3 weeks of researching all options, we decided to have a reman'd engine put in, and also asked the mechanic who did the swap labor and built the engine to diagnose the cause of the piston hole, and repair whatever that cause was.

The new engine was installed in late December, along with a new timing belt, water pump, fuel filter, power steering pump & drive belts, and an AFR gauge (in hopes of identifying any potential future lean conditions before it could burn a hole in another piston!). The engine mechanic said all checked out fine on the truck in terms of the cause of the piston hole (no vac leaks found, cat convertor OK, coil packs & plugs fine, etc) EXCEPT that 2 of our injectors came back "bad" from the place he sent them to be cleaned/tested. So he SAID he reinstalled the other 4 with new O Ring seals and filter screens, and replaced the 2 bad ones.

After this, he emailed us and said the engine was running great, and the truck was starting great, EXCEPT hard warm starts, when the truck would sit for ~30 minutes since it had last ran - it would eventually start, but the crank time was excessive. Started great cold, and great if it was only off for a couple of minutes, but if it sat ~30 minutes, excessive crank time to start. He said he would test our fuel system with a fuel pressure check, to determine whether it was the pump or the fuel pressure regulator. A few days later, he told us his tests indicated it was the FPR, so he replaced it.

But. This didn't solve the hard warm start problem. We went back and forth 2 more times, and each time, the engine mechanics assured us they'd checked every possible cause, and didn't know what it could be. They cleaned and tested our IAC valve (Idler Air Control valve), then even swapped it with another just in case; they said they checked for an EVAP issue, checked all sensors, checked for a ground wire issue, checked again for any vac leaks, felt confident it wasn't our fuel pump because of the testing he'd previously done. The last time we were there, they said they blew some dirt out of a line from the charcoal canister. I asked if they thought that could have been the cause of the issue. The look on their faces made it clear the answer was no.

So, since they told us they were out of ideas and seemed to be sort of done with us, we took it to a new mechanic. And based on the info we gave him about what we were told was already done by the engine mechanics, plus our description of the problem, his thought was fuel pump. He did fuel pressure testing, and those results coupled with all other factors led him to replacing the pump.

But. This didn't solve the hard warm start issue. So our new mechanic then said he thought he saw a leaky injector. So he sent all 6 out for cleaning/testing, and 2 were found to be bad. Today, we should be hearing from our mechanic as to whether replacing those 2 and reinstalling the other 4 that were just rebuilt AGAIN has solved the problem.

So, aside from the obvious frustration of the money pit we've dug ourselves into, the frustration of being without our beloved truck for nearly 2 months now, and the frustration of realizing something shady and dishonest likely went on with the work the engine mechanics performed, our main concern now is what if the injectors wind up not being the cause of the hard warm starts either. And that's why I'm joining this forum - to seek suggestions from folks as to what to look at next if we find that the injectors are not the culprit. Even this super nice, dedicated mechanic is now saying he'll be scratching his head if the injectors aren't the culprit.

We did have the truck home for a few days in between trips back and forth to the engine mechanics. We bought a Scan Gauge II, hoping the info it offered might provide some clues. The only factor we've noticed that is consistent with the hard warm starts every time is that the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) HAS to be at least 60+ for the problem to occur, and the higher that number is, the longer the crank time. If that number is up in the 80s or 90s, the truck will barely start, and even takes 2 attempts sometimes.

I've been researching this issue just about 24/7 for going on a month now, and have found many other 1st gen Taco owners have the same issue. Unfortunately, often there is no final conclusion post as to what solved the issue on a lot of the threads I've found. I promise, I will post the conclusion, assuming we don't throw in the towel and cut our losses before we reach one.

Thank you very much if you've actually read this far, apologies for the novel. Tough to condense much more than this, it's been a loooooooong road.


One other thing I should mention - the hard warm start issue WAS NOT present prior to the engine swap and work associated with it.
 
Sorry for your saga. The 3.4 has a good reputation, yet my head gasket went out last year at 104,000 mi. Hope things get sorted out. Welcome to Mud!
 
Crank, cam or knock sensor maybe? You said the sensors all checked out but how did they check out? Also what does your EGR look like? If its gummed up it might be worth cleaning.
 
Thanks for the welcome Haggis! Just curious, what did you do when your HG went out?

Byrd hntr, you very well may have called it. Our mechanic just found that our cam sensor was severely dented, then simply reinstalled by the mechanics that swapped the engine. Nice, huh? Anyway, that's another rant. Our mechanic is installing a new cam sensor as we speak, and we should know very soon whether we are finally done with this miserable nightmare or not. Will post final final outcome, thank you so much for the input. If it's not the fix, might need to get more good advice from you guys!

By the way, do you know if we have an EGR valve on our truck? Most people have said no, including the engine mechanic (not a lot of faith in them at this point though), but the FSM makes it look like we do, so I'm not 100% on that. Keep meaning to ask our current mechanic, but keep forgetting. Just wondered if you'd know off the top of your head.
 
Regarding the HG, I had my local mechanic do the full repair/replacement. Cost me $900. He said he has seen it occasionally. The only real spendy repair in my 15 years of ownership except for the 90.000 mi timing belt service.
 
I had hot start problems in my 4runner. For me - it was spark plugs. Mine were worn out, but if they did put the wrong ones in, it could also cause the problem.
 
By the way, do you know if we have an EGR valve on our truck? Most people have said no, including the engine mechanic (not a lot of faith in them at this point though), but the FSM makes it look like we do, so I'm not 100% on that. Keep meaning to ask our current mechanic, but keep forgetting. Just wondered if you'd know off the top of your head.

Yes I believe you have an EGR.
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Back in the day when I was wrenching for a living and had a hard start to diagnose it was on my list of things to check. I hardly ever saw those symptoms on the 3.4L, but as a general rule it was on my list of things to check out.

The Cam sensor seems like a good candidate as well. I hope it works out.
 
Hi all, my excessive cranking when hot problem turned out to be my injectors. We battled for nearly 5 months to figure this out, see our thread here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...p-3-4l-5vzfe-v6.354399/page-153#post-10234158

The injectors were passing on testing machines, but dripping in the cylinders when the truck was shut off after being up to full temp (our mechanic borescoped the cylinders and took video of it happening). He put a set of known good ones in to let us drive it for a bit to be totally sure this was the fix, and it was. So we had a brand new set of Toyota injectors put in, and are finally done with this annoying problem!! We tried everything. Literally.

Donor known good parts tried: ECM; igniter; MAF; Charcoal Canister.
Parts serviced/cleaned/etc: TB/IAC; adding ground wire; servicing injectors and replacing failing ones with rebuilt.
Parts tested: everything but the tailgate
Parts replaced: TPS, ECT, Crank, Cam Sensors; Charcoal Canister; Fuel Pump; FPR; Fuel Filter; Starter; Battery; Fuses; Plugs; Plug Wires; Coil packs; Thermostat; Air Filter.

Yep, we really replaced ALL of that. And really dealt with the harsh reality that each of those items wasn't the fix, every single time. That sucked!

Best of luck to all suffering with the hard warm start issue!!

My advice would be consider asking your mechanic to borescope your intake manifold and see if your injectors are dripping! : )

PS: We went to a non dealer "mechanic" to have the engine replaced, because they assured us they offered dealer level quality in parts and labor but at a lower cost. This was not what we received. The engine mechanic blew us off pretty fast after collecting our payment, even though we didn't have a starting problem before the engine swap and he knew that, and committed to resolving it for us since it developed during the engine swap. He never did. 2 other skilled, very experienced ASE cert. mechanics tried for ~3 months to figure it out but were not able to. Finally, by sheer luck, we found some great guys at a local dealer that took an interest in our situation and wanted to help. They offered to try to diagnose the starting problem for $100 or it would be free. It sounded too good to be true, and we were certainly skeptics by then, that anyone would be that nice, and that anyone would ever figure it out! But we figured we had nothing to lose except $100 (small change at that point, compared to the thousands we'd spent trying to fix it, PLUS the engine mechanic's bill) and went for it. And guess what? A dealer tech with only 6 yrs experience but a ton of drive and determination and intelligence figured it out within ~2 weeks. He put a borescope down the intake manifold and saw the injectors dripping, even though they passed on the Toyota injector testing machine! Then put injectors from his own 4 Runner (a match to our Taco's injectors) in our Taco, so we could drive it for a week and be 100% sure new injectors would be the fix, since they are expensive. He also performed a leak down test on our "new" reman'd engine, and found excessive pressure leak from the intake valves, with one cylinder scoring 30%. We paid a premium price for the engine, and obviously 30% leak is not consistent with a premium engine.

So the lesson we've learned is if you can find someone that really cares about doing quality work at a dealer, NEVER LET GO of that connection if you love your Toyota and can't do the big stuff yourself. It can be tough to make a personal connection with a dealer tech, since typically customers only speak to a service advisor. But try, get creative, find a way - it will be worth it when something major happens, you will NEED that connection to help you figure out what to do and to have someone who is willing to go above and beyond to help your Toyota (and you in turn!)!!
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