Builds Shipwreck (11 Viewers)

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My wife left me unsupervised tonight, so I spent a bit more time in the shop... I know, I really should slow down from this life in the fast lane
cut some shims


installed

I'll weld them to the spindle now that I knew they fit (those aren't the same shim stock, the first were too thick)

better picture of the header
 
Beautiful work. Your fab has honestly led me to wanting to do it and build up a truck that's mainly custom.
 
So the question... I'm 51% sure I'm going with a loc-rite or similar locker. E-locker would be nice, but, like any other diff-locking device, they aren't perfect - my biggest irritation with them is they're great for straight line work, not so much trying to keep from sliding into a tree well. ARB has the same issue. Detroit works, except I've had the thrill of having one lock up on a descent in a 74 Blazer... it was not something I really want to try twice. Loc-rites have the issue of snap understeer if you get on the throttle in a corner. Limited slips just don't work for real 4x4ing.... I like it in my truck, but it's a tow-rig, not a trail rig. I'm kind of considering the all-gear trac-lock (hmmm, maybe wrong name) like I had in my 06 GTO (not stock) because it doesn't come on as hard as the detroit, but still is a full lock once the tires get enough dissimilar revolutions.... but then, how different is it from a loc-rite? I loved it in my Buick, but I didn't like the unpredictable understeer nor did I like that it didn't always unlock on a corner....
so what to use? and I need to decide the rear soon... as the shop still isn't done with the front (and it looks like I'll be doing it myself), that has a couple months before a decision must be made
 
Detroit, grizzly, ez locker, lock rite and Aussie locker all operate and behave similarly. They lock with application of throttle or any bias under power, but can over-run when coasting or not under power. Difference is cost and strength.

The trick to not sliding into a tree well with a selectable locker, is to turn them off. That is the benefit that they have, you can turn them on or off as desired or needed. There are other more technical benefits for different situations as well. For technical snow wheeling, a selectable cannot be beat. ARB, zip, ox or eaton....pick your phobia.

Gear operated limited slips sound good and in paper should work great but in practice do not. One revolution for every three, Blah blah blah... In practice it looks more like 1/8 of a revolution for three when you really need it. Sometimes you can trick them by riding the brakes, other times you cannot.
 
If you think that a selectable locker will drive you into a tree (off your line) faster than a lunchbox locker or detroit, you're nuts.
 
arb or e-locker are the best .
or
with lunchbox locker front and rear , locking hubs front and rear , it give you the possibility to chose the wheels you need to unlock when you need it , if climb out and in of your truck all the time is not a big deal for you
 
good input, thanks

I've owned or own every locker there is - but my struggle is finding criteria to only make the choice once.... whatever I choose, there will always be other choices - seems like the only type of traction device not available is one that acts like a limited slip until you lock them together....
 
Jeep rubicon rear axles do this, (air operated up to 2006) and electric 2007+. Detroit's e-locker was exactly what you want also, but discontinued.
 
Wilson said:
Jeep rubicon rear axles do this, (air operated up to 2006) and electric 2007+. Detroit's e-locker was exactly what you want also, but discontinued.
Click to expand...

I'm glad you mentioned Detroit e-locker. I was at Olympic 4x4 today, and we were chatting about options - and their take on the Detroit e=locker was it was the worst of all worlds... their opinion to be sure, they said the limited slip didn't work as advertised and you'd be surprised with a non-unlockable differential.

In part because of the discussion here, and the discussion at Olympic - Spartan lockers front and rear is what I bought - I figure that in the worst case, they're the ones that have the least cash outlay.

I do think that if I do have to change one, it will be the front with a selectable.

Anyway, hopefully tonight I'll have the axle welded up and a good start on the truss.
 
well, work accomplished
while I'm waiting for another carrier (an open carrier), I figured I'd pull apart the limited slip that came with the dana 60 and see its condition... rebuildable...


there's the spartan locker waiting for its new housing


so these tiny tires will be the rollers (though I will, I suppose be forced to use them)... I got them for cheap because the guy thought he had radials... uh, no. 36x12.5 16.5 on 8" rims... but they are basically brand new



much trimming would need to occur to put these where the stock axle is located







anyway, the rest of my week is going to be doing less fun stuff that shop stuff.... cpr, etc....
 
farpolemiddle said:
When you cut the corners you should consider reforming the front of the wheel well if you are decent with sheet metal. IMHO it always looks better when the wheel well looks better "relocated" rather than just extended.
Click to expand...

I haven't yet decided how that opening is going to end up.... the part that's making me hesitate is the one that says cut the wheel well right in the middle and add 3" (and to the side and the roof as well). Or, I'll reform the top so it has the same proportions (remember, the wheel is going back roughly 3") when I cut the back.... I didn't have the wheels, and I wanted to look at the wheel in the space first before I did reshaping... the decision is coming soon... though today I was considering buying reverse cut gears and flipping the Dana 60 to get a high-pinion.... at this point, it'd basically cost me gears and might save me money on a less-elaborate driveshaft.
 
Dang. That some really amazing work. What all is left to do fab wise before you can have it running?
 
Mudder said:
Dang. That some really amazing work. What all is left to do fab wise before you can have it running?
Click to expand...
top of the transmission tunnel and I need to make a decision on the rear suspension (IRS, use the 7.5, put in an 8.8... etc)... oh yeah, and find time to do it - I know this is really weird to say, but it seems I have too many projects... the white thing that is my avatar is also waiting to be done as well - of course, my priorities remain correct - 4x4 first, cars - whenever I get around to them
 
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