Cummins swap ideas........ (1 Viewer)

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4 vs 6. Are night and day difference with noise and vib. The 4 sounds and feels like a tractor. The 6 is more what you expect for a vehicle diesel. Ya it's loud but it idles smooth. At 650 rpm. The 4bt jumps around like it's trying to escape the vehicle. It is drivable about 850-900.

Don't notice the extra weight on the 6bt. The 4bt has lots I room for intercooler and fans. 6bt electric only. And not a ton of room for a large protected intercooler.

You need to find a 4bt vehicle to look at to make sure you understand. Some people it's not a big deal. Some it is. We can't make that observation for you.
 
No. I don't think you even have an idea of what you're talking about.

I know I'm a dick but... just... no.
no that is Ok being a dick that part of our character, my question is that I did 3" lift on my LX450 then I had to correct caster after I correct front caster I have to install double yolk on front cardan because car was vibrating so now all working well on my LX450. But I do have Jeep Wrangler where I have 4" lift , it is not full time 4WD but front cardan still spins when car is driving and not engaged i called it cardan is idling. Because I do not have double yolk to correct this wrong with cardan angle It was killing U-join every 6 months eventually it killed Jeep's transfer case. So when I saw your picture I want to ask how your is not doing the same problems what you done differently, but if you do not want to talk about it , thenit is fine too. Have a good day.
 
no that is Ok being a dick that part of our character, my question is that I did 3" lift on my LX450 then I had to correct caster after I correct front caster I have to install double yolk on front cardan because car was vibrating so now all working well on my LX450. But I do have Jeep Wrangler where I have 4" lift , it is not full time 4WD but front cardan still spins when car is driving and not engaged i called it cardan is idling. Because I do not have double yolk to correct this wrong with cardan angle It was killing U-join every 6 months eventually it killed Jeep's transfer case. So when I saw your picture I want to ask how your is not doing the same problems what you done differently, but if you do not want to talk about it , thenit is fine too. Have a good day.
Do you have manual hubs?
 
Say what?

Umm yeah first thing is first, manual hubs?

I want to say you're confusing pinion, output, double cardan, and single cardan and driveline and double yolk. Your terms are all a bit off and I'm finding it difficult to understand some of what you're saying.

It's not my picture but I do understand drivelines I think better than most people.
 
It's a jeep. Has fixed hubs, not manual. When he drives it 2wd the front shaft spins because the front axles are turning. He's a little mixed up on his terminology, but everyone had to learn at one time or another...
 
Say what?

Umm yeah first thing is first, manual hubs?

I want to say you're confusing pinion, output, double cardan, and single cardan and driveline and double yolk. Your terms are all a bit off and I'm finding it difficult to understand some of what you're saying.

It's not my picture but I do understand drivelines I think better than most people.

x2
 
What year jeep? Some have center disconnects that are vacuum. Either way With that set up you will get some rotation but no power transfer so you probably will not get vibs. There is no power from the transfer case being applied.
 
look like your front shaft have the wrong angle according to the picture - you need double yolk (CV) or it will kill the transfer case.


LOL!
So you are diagnosing my front driveshaft angle over the internet, using a crappy picture and you have no idea what setup I'm running.
In that case I will run right out and buy a new one!
I don't really like to be a dick but sometimes it is called for.
 
LOL!
So you are diagnosing my front driveshaft angle over the internet, using a crappy picture and you have no idea what setup I'm running.
In that case I will run right out and buy a new one!
I don't really like to be a dick but sometimes it is called for.

The picture you provided makes @skhochay look correct.
 
Bottom line is that even at highway speeds, in 4-high (snowy roads) I don't get drive line vibrations so I don't worry about it. I considered it when I did the lift but ended up not needing it.
 
Bottom line is that even at highway speeds, in 4-high (snowy roads) I don't get drive line vibrations so I don't worry about it. I considered it when I did the lift but ended up not needing it.

That's good.

The point is, just because it "works" does not mean it is correct, or looks correct. No need to berate a guy for trying to help by pointing something out that he saw. The value in this forum is gaining advice from your peers, not berating them because you think they're wrong.

Carry on.
 
I have to say, this is why I rarely post on here.
 
If you have a questions about someones setup, ASK THEM A QUESTION!
Posting crap like that without doing some simple research to find out the details is simply lazy. It clogs this forum with crappy misinformation and make it difficult for people who are trying to do some research to figure out what is true and what is utter crap.
I had to learn too but I did a ton of reading and if I had a questions I asked.
Sorry for the Hijack, this stuff makes my crazy though.
 
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