'91 LC80 n00b questions (1 Viewer)

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May 31, 2012
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Location
Pendleton, Or
Just picked up a cherry 1991 FJ80 today and have a few questions. I have already searched and read up on most of it, but hope you LC guru's could help shed some more light on this stuff.

1) The brakes suck. If I mash them to the floor, it will stop eventually, but no tire smoke. I understand it's not a sports car and this seems to be normal, but I don't feel safe driving my family around until it is fixed. The pedal is soft until half way through the stroke. I have an idea to eliminate the LSPV doohickey and replace it with a normal prop valve, and I will of course inspect everything and bleed a 5 gallon bucket of DOT3 through it first.

2) Weasel pisser and wiper for the back window inop. Is there some common fail point here? It also seems that the defog doesn't work for the rear, is there a common failed connector there?

3) The idle seems low. I've read the manual states the ECU regulates it to 650rpm, but is there a way to increase it? Read something about turning the golden screw all the way in and backing it off a bit as well as advancing timing?

4) Windows all work, but they move slower than pond water. Other than lubing everything is there anything else to do about it?

5) Heater fan doesn't work in the high setting. I assume it's the switch?

Other than a few other minor things it is awesome! Did great in the snow today and even handled freeway speeds without issue. Looking forward to fixing these minor issues and getting her out to the woods!
 
1: Could be the LSPV but could be caliper issues, soft lines, etc.

2: Not that i know of. Check the connectors under the headliner in the back maybe? fwiw there is only the one pump for both front and rear washers, but the diverter valve is a common point of failure. It's under the hood.

3: Seems low? well, make sure the engine is running right, but i seem to remember that there is no such thing as an idle speed adjustment on our engines. But there are some things that will make it run wrong and idle faster as a side effect.

4: Some people have had good luck replacing the runs. That being the rubber things around the windows. Akella is your best possible source but it's still not a cheap fix. In my case, I think i still need to replace my window motors. A lot of people have had good luck with the Dorman motors available from many sources at less than $50/ea. There is also something in the FSM about assuring proper alignment so that the top rear corner of the window isn't digging into the run on the way up, which is part of my problem and i need to get a round tuit.

5: Never had that issue myself but i have a '94? i have pushbutton speed selection so if i had an issue like that it would probably turn out to be a resistor pack issue maybe. you're gonna have to use the search feature.
 
5: is most likely the relay in the drivers kick panel. Labeled "blower high relay".
relay-block-ds-jpg.246359
 
These are all very common issues. Spend some time searching for answers.
Your truck is 23 years old now, so don't expect that all systems are up to par.

Your brakes suck because the system has been neglected. The calipers probably need to be rebuilt as do the rear wheel cylinders. Make sure the rear shoes are adjusted correctly and that the handbrake works properly. This will keep the shoes in proper alignment. New OEM soft brake lines to replace the 23 year old ones on the truck probably wouldn’t be a bad idea either. Check the condition of the front rotors as well. Then you can flush the system and replace the fluid.
If there are any issues with the vacuum system (low idle is a giveaway), get them fixed so your booster is getting the correct amount of vacuum assist.

You don’t get to adjust the idle speed on a 3FE. If the NOT engine is not idling at 650 RPM, then something is wrong and it won’t be fixed by simply turning a screw.

http://www.sdsysdesign.com/tlc/images/Strife/3FE TuneUp.pdf
 
As far as brakes go. If youve got a soft pedal change the brake lines(braided stainless lines are an excellent option). Get two rebuilt or rebuild your calipers. Turn or replace your rotors with oem, stoptech, dba, or ebc. Get some quality brake pads. I just put ebc yellowstuff pads on my 93' and it was easily 100% improvement over the stock pads once they were properly broke in. Also a full flush of old brake fluid will help with overall operation.
 
X2 on the relay for the blower motor. The part # is 90987-02004. They are about $10 (buy Toyota OEM ones from CDAN or BENO or the dealership). Keep a couple spares in your truck. It is used multiple times on the 91-92 (and probably 93-97 but never owned one or checked). It is also the EFI Relay which I've had go bad a couple of times. Worse case scenario you could rob from your blower motor to replace your EFI relay in a pinch but may as well keep on hand.

Window run rubber is pretty easy to replace. That's a common issue on a 23 year old vehicle. I just replaced my Driver Door rubber and I can actually use my window now in the winter. Took me about 15 minutes. Search on here as there is already a detailed write up on it. I've heard too about guys cleaning their corroded contacts so the proper voltage is getting to the window motor. So check that as well.
 
1) Brakes don't suck anymore! They even squall fresh 33's on dry pavement. Bled them using the jar method, furthest tire to closest then doing the LSPV last. Quite a bit of air came out of that. The previous owner installed stainless extended lines with the OME 3" suspension, and I suspect air got trapped in the LSPV then.

Also got a new radiator cap as the coolant was ghosting out of the system with no apparent leaks. Turns out the cap was weak allowing coolant to puke into the overflow, and once full onto the ground while driving.

Also considering an EGR delete, is there anyone that still produces the block off plates for the 3FE? If not it would be easy to machine myself.
 
3) Figured out the idle issue. Had some vacuum leaks in the EGR, so I removed it. Also did a oil trap for the PCV and turned the golden screw out 1/2 turn from full in. It was bottomed out when I got it, don't know if that made a difference or not. Debating on doing the smog pump delete as well, but don't know if it will effect how it runs any.









 
I may know someone *wink* that did a full de-smog & he claims his truck runs MUCH better. Smooth idle & seems to have more power.
 
As to #4, if the channel runs don't fix your problem, I had great luck cleaning the electrical contacts at the drivers control panel for all your windows. Years of carbon buildup due to electrical arcing leave the circuits depleted of adequate amperage. The motors might be just fine, simply aren't getting much juice.

This might help. Welcome aboard and do as JonHeld says for all your servicing needs, he knows what he's talking about.
 
Is this as good as it gets or should I remove the smog pump too?

Am I missing something?! Did you just do 0-60 in like 7 seconds!? That would have to be hands down the fastest 3fe on the planet. Mine runs great and it is 21-22 seconds 0-60mph.
 
Am I missing something?! Did you just do 0-60 in like 7 seconds!? That would have to be hands down the fastest 3fe on the planet. Mine runs great and it is 21-22 seconds 0-60mph.
Well, he wasn't at a dead stop, but that's pretty good IMO. My 80 with 33s and 4.88s could probably keep up...maybe.
I have to confess, I've never tried.
 
Well, he wasn't at a dead stop, but that's pretty good IMO. My 80 with 33s and 4.88s could probably keep up...maybe.
I have to confess, I've never tried.
Mine is on 33's with 4.88's. Rolling start, plus the speedo is off by ten mph on the top end.
EDIT:
Speaking of that, is there anyone that sells a new widget to calibrate the speedo? All I have found are electronic ones for the later years. Mine has an actual cable that spins.

 
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I need to know more about the shotgun shell.

That's my blow off valve. Just kidding. It is a perfect fit for the hole left in the intake after you remove the EGR. I put some high temp silicone on a cut shell (no powder, although the primer is live). I tried .50BMG but it was too loose.
 
That's my blow off valve. Just kidding. It is a perfect fit for the hole left in the intake after you remove the EGR. I put some high temp silicone on a cut shell (no powder, although the primer is live). I tried .50BMG but it was too loose.

I noticed the live primer lol. I have a feeling we're going to see a "can you identify this bang" thread in the future. :flipoff2:
 

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