Soa lift (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 30, 2013
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20
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Location
rainier, oregon
Been reading up on the soa set ups heard both cut and turn needed and not needed with stock springs, kinda confused on what to do if I mount the new perches parallel with the sua stock location wouldn't the angles stay the same? And just install a double u joint set up at the t case to eliminate any ang k email issues? This subjects beat to death but need a clear answer on the subject please, thanks
 
With a double cardan shaft you need to point the pinion at the t-case output so the single u-joint at the axle is straight, otherwise you will get vibrations. If you don't have a DC shaft, you want the pinion parallel with the t-case output, like stock.

LMGTFY:
google: double cardan soa cut turn site:ih8mud.com
 
If you don't want to do cut & turn then i think you have to install the frt end, w/ubolts & spring pads all bolted together on the springs & not welded. The vehicle needs to be level & the vehicle weight on the frtend, so you can adjust to the proper caster angle, then see if the pinion angle will work. If the pinion angle is bad then you need to cut & turn. If you want it to drive & handle nice you need a good positive caster angle. When your done w/the setup weld the spring pads on the axle.

If I was this far down the road on this project I would do the cut & turn & be done w/it.
 
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Ok don't know much about it it has a soa already but I got a disc front end for it that's fine spline and a cream to match it so it's a swap thing I like the hight of it and I am in the process of rebuilding it not to stock since psrts are really hard to find since it's a 64 but just a nice cruiser with modern stuff on it and good road manners, debating a shackle swap also and this is my first build on a cruiser also
 
Ok don't know much about it it has a soa already but I got a disc front end for it that's fine spline and a cream to match it so it's a swap thing I like the hight of it and I am in the process of rebuilding it not to stock since psrts are really hard to find since it's a 64 but just a nice cruiser with modern stuff on it and good road manners, debating a shackle swap also and this is my first build on a cruiser also

Maybe you can translate this. Punctuation is good, and extra credit for spelling. What year is the front end you wish to swap in?

Not doing a cut and turn, means you're trying to take short cuts. Don't do that. Your Cruiser deserves better.

What is your budget, and what are you trying to do?

I'd set the perch angle to roughly point the differential output at the transfer case, then do the cut and turn to return the caster to something you can drive. DO NOT TAKE SHORT CUTS. Otherwise you will end up with undriveable junk and another Cruiser will bite the dust.
 
Sorry I got a new phone and its hard to type on bigger phone smaller button's, it's a 76 front and rear end I'll run 35's when it's done I'm taking the whole rig apart and fixing rust and what not. I have just read that people have done it and not had problems just trying to see how they did it. The factory axles are spring over already but don't know how it was done since it looks like a perch crushed and it was Jimmy rigged together. I can weld and fabricate without a problem but if I could set it up without taking it all apart as I've read I was going that route if I could
 
Oh its a 1964 but missing almost all the original dash parts and had a few engine swaps so it's getting a make over and new start in life as it deserves to
 
If it drives alright now then leave it. If your just trying to get disk brakes on it the transfer them over to your old axle.
 
most of these rules apply but you need to turn the front springs around if your not doing a cut and turn .i drove a non cut and turn for 35 years almost .wheeling plowing and towing so i dont understand the big deal .i used a combo of toyota pickup parts and fj40 parts for the steering and it bolted together .also went to disc brakes when they came out and added a 4 speed that helped the front drive shaft .i bought all the toyota wrecks from the insurance companies so i always had a pile of new stuff to play with
 
As someone who has done soa (Mark Whately style) with no cut n turn I can attest to the fact it is unnecessary as long as you flip the front springs. I however am in no way saying a cut n turn should not be done this is just another way to do perform the spring over. I will say that I am slightly unhappy with my driveshaft angle but do not experience any binding.
 
Old axle is ball and claw and the rig does not run so I gotta rebuild the whole thing from the ground up, if ball and claw was in fine spline I would leave it and do a disc swap but parts are broke and not worth rebuilding I was told
 

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