Chilean Troopy Resurrection- FJ to BJ (1 Viewer)

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Not much progress, tore the donor wiring harness apart, pulled out the starter relay, glow plug relays, resistor, EDIC relay and all the mating plugs...then the it got cold; 9 deg. this a.m. supposed to be -5 tonight.

I need to stop working on cruisers and build a real garage.
 
Sure looks cold there Owyhee!

Just some info here that I think may help you get her started....

Your "12 volt 3B-engine" could be running either 10.5V glow plugs or 6V glow plugs depending on
  • the build-month of the BJ60 donor vehicle, and
  • the BJ60's original destination market (ie. Canada, Australia etc)
But the best way to find out is simply to remove a glowplug and check what's stamped on the side of it.

If they're 10.5V, then all you need is a relay and momentary-switch to supply battery-power to the glow plug busbar for preheat. You then hold the momentary button depressed for 20 seconds (after which the plugs should be glowing nice and hot) and then hit the starter and your engine should instantly fire up. (This preheat system is commonly referred to as "The Wilson Switch Set-up".)

But if your plugs have 6V stamped on them, this means the BJ60 donor vehicle was equipped with "superglow". And in this case, I'd recommend replacing them all with 10.5V plugs so as to be able to run the 12V Wilson Switch setup described above.

Toyota moved on to "superglow preheat" to allow faster starting (of just a few seconds waiting-time instead of 20 seconds). But with this engine transplant I think you'll find the Wilson Switch Set-up to be simpler, more reliable, and cheaper to install.

:beer:
 
Thanks Tom. I assume I have the superglow system, but haven't checked the resistance (or the stamp) to verify. My plan is to do just what you said. Just trying to sort out what I need to keep to get the fuel control relay to work as well as all of these components are interconnected (glow relay, preheat timer, fuel control relay etc.)

It looks cold, but it's not too bad if the sun is out...once the sun goes down though, it's time to head inside.

Dan
 
Any progress over T-day? Boise's been like 50F...

Hope you and yours had a nice holiday!

Jason
 
Nope. Went camping over the holiday. Ended up backing over the right rear mud flap on our 80 and ripping the entire fender flare off...trying to decide if I should fix it or remove all the flares as this is about the third time over the years that this has happened.

How's the 40? Thought about it over the weekend. Really miss tooling around in it in the Owyhees.

Dan
 
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Got it to turn over with the key, EDIC seems to operate. Key on, goes to run position, key to start it cycle to off then goes to over-injection, key back to run it goes to run position, key off, it shuts off.

Once I realized I hadn't grounded the batteries to the block (just frame grounded them as I need to build some new cables), it cranked over with the key...

Tried sticking the fuel line in a jug of diesel and cranking it, but don't think the system is primed. No resistance on the stock priming pump, pumping seems to do nothing. Last time I held the jug up above the filter to 'prime' the system, this time I set the jug on the ground and tried to lift the fuel with the priming pump, but it doesnt' seem to do anything. There is a dribble out of the filter, and got a bit out of the injection lines while cranking. Just ordered a Bosch replacement on Ebay, wiring is still a mess, things just twisted and temporarily mounted.

May take a few days over Xmas and clean it up. Wish I would have tried to start it before I put it in the truck...
 
Thanks Ken, how's the baby? We rented a F.S. Cabin this past weekend north of Crouch and cut a tree.

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Hope to get some good weather over xmas and make some progress on the Troopy.
 
Just a long weekend, good thing I remembered the saw this time...

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Well, I managed to get the Bosch pump installed, pretty simple. Primed the filter, and the injection pump. Cracked the lines at the injectors and got fuel to come out there, while cranking the engine over. It sputtered, but won't fire. I'm just holding a wire to the battery to get the glow plugs to go. Not sure where to go from here...I plugged in the coolant heater, just to see if I warmed it up a bit if it would make a difference, but it doesn't seem to.

Thought about pulling the injectors and squirting some oil in the cylinders, maybe they're not sealing enough to get good compression?

Might go buy some starting fluid, I'm sure that's frowned upon, but I really want to hear this thing run...
 
I'm just holding a wire to the battery to get the glow plugs to go. Not sure where to go from here

Is it a nice big fat wire and are you getting good contact on both the positive terminal of the battery and the glow rail? The glowplugs need a good 40-50Amps to work nicely
 
It's the OEM BJ60 wire carrying the current. The wire that's actuating the glow circuit is a smaller gauge.

I hit it with some starting fluid and it coughs and sputters more, blows out black smoke, but won't stay running.
 
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I hit it with some starting fluid and it coughs and sputters more, bellows out black smoke, but won't stay running.

If you're confident the lines have been bled correctly and the glowplugs really have glowed then I would be looking to confirm that the injection pump is timed correctly and that the compression is OK...
 
Ordered some 10.5v glow plugs today. Will check that they're glowing correctly upon installation. I'm getting battery voltage on each one, when I glow.

I'm going to go through my assembly photos and check that I matched all the gears up correctly (though I'm pretty sure that I did as I followed the FSM)

Thanks for the input.
 
I'm going to go through my assembly photos and check that I matched all the gears up correctly (though I'm pretty sure that I did as I followed the FSM)


Your photos are a good reference to have.. there is a timing procedure detailed in the Service Manual that will give some additional confirmation.. also.. I see an EDIC in your photos.. have you confirmed that the injector pump is in the RUN position when you're trying to start it and that it stays there whilst you're cranking the engine?
 
EDIC seems to be operating properly. cycles to over-injecion when starting, run when key is in 'ON' and shuts off when key is turned off.

Gear assembly photo, marks look right to me.
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And injection pump alignment mark.

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Certainly looks correct.. needs confirmation of correct operation through a manual timing check... then a compression check.

On a 2H I started recently I was quite suprised how much effort it took to bleed the lines.. ended up pulling the glows, cracking the injector lines and cranking for what seemed like 45-60 seconds..
 

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