Target carrier (1 Viewer)

[scrapdaddy]

JMack,

helps a lot. Did you make the connecting bars or source them out.

You're taking Pig building to a whole new level!

 

[J Mack]

JMack,

helps a lot. Did you make the connecting bars or source them out.

If you’re asking about the bars that the hiems thread into I haven’t made them yet, still just doing some busy work waiting for paint supplies to show up. I will make them from stainless round stock when I do.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Sorry, I was referring to the bars on each side, with the splines in them.

 

[J Mack]

Sorry, I was referring to the bars on each side, with the splines in them.

Got it, they're Schroeder.
http://www.schroedersteering.com/OWarms.html

Mounting blocks are also Schroeder.
http://www.schroedersteering.com/SwayBarStuff.html

 

[scrapdaddy]

Thanks, I was hoping they were something I could buy. You've been so hot on fabricating stuff, I thought you whipped them out on lunch break.

I know you didn't buy those back up light spacers.

 

[npulver]

Very slick setup, If you dont mind me asking, what did the schroeder setup cost you?

 

[J Mack]

Thanks, I was hoping they were something I could buy. You've been so hot on fabricating stuff, I thought you whipped them out on lunch break.

I know you didn't buy those back up light spacers.

Thanks Ron..

Sorry to disappoint but I bought the light spacers and whittled on them a bit to fit the pig..

http://www.rigidindustries.com/installation-accessories/49010

Very slick setup, If you dont mind me asking, what did the schroeder setup cost you?

Thank you..
I think around $300.00, I've bought so much stuff lately trying to get this dog and pony show on the road it's all starting to get a little fogy.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Not disappointed at all, just in awe of your interweb shopping skills!

 

[J Mack]

just in awe of your interweb shopping skills!

Ha... you and my wife, but I think she phrased it differently.

 

[TuffMudder]

Nice Swaybar Jmack. I like how you've got it set up for a quick disconnect. Mind if I ask where you found that pin and what the shear rating is on it? I'm messing around with a quick disconnect idea but it's going to take a fairly stout pin.

Just to qualify what I'm about to say, I swear I didn't copy, and in fact I've had mine purchased for almost a year. I have those same Rigid flush mount lights for my rear bumper . I bought a second set that aren't flush mount to go on my roof rack at the rear.

Hope you post up a pick of that air box after you've coated it. It's really going to look nice I think

Guys, I'm going to junk it up some more. With 60 axles, like I have, the front sway bar fits good. I would think pretty easy to adapt to a 55 axle. I know the width is different, but could be overcome. Body roll isn't a fun feeling for me, so anything I can do to stop it, is worth trying.

JMack, I hacked on my rear bar in order for it fit around stuff and I'm very interested in how yours pans out. It might be a problem solver for me. If you would, keep us updated on the mounting, etc.

Thanks!

Ron, it looks like you're blazing the trail down the same road I'm heading down. I have 60 axles, a 60 front sway bar and for now, a 55 rear sway. I have yet to try to set mine up though, but I'm sure I'll be back with questions in a few weeks when we get to it. I take it you've not been happy with fitment on the rear sway bar?

 

[J Mack]

Nice Swaybar Jmack. I like how you've got it set up for a quick disconnect. Mind if I ask where you found that pin and what the shear rating is on it? I'm messing around with a quick disconnect idea but it's going to take a fairly stout pin.

Thank you!
I ordered all the parts from Mcmaster Carr then machined them into my pins. This is a list with descriptions and part numbers.

90170A205 Pin with Locking Ring, 18-8 Stainless Steel, without Chain, 3/16" Diameter, 1-1/4" Length,



92066A031 Alloy Steel Insert Nut for Socket Head Cap Screws, 3/8"-16 Internal Thread, .62" Length,



90201A327 Extreme-Strength Grade 9 Steel Cap Screw, 3/8"-16 Thread, 2-1/2" Long, Zinc-Plated,





The extreme-strength grade 9 steel cap screw has a minimum tensile strength of 180,000 psi, I used a 3⁄8 – 16 that has a tensile stress area 0.0775 so I’m guessing around 13,950 LBS of shear, this should be more than adequate for any sway bar you would run on a pig.

Just to qualify what I'm about to say, I swear I didn't copy, and in fact I've had mine purchased for almost a year. I have those same Rigid flush mount lights for my rear bumper . I bought a second set that aren't flush mount to go on my roof rack at the rear.

I like the Ridgid lights and these fit perfectly in the spot where the factory backup light were.

 

[xtiaan2000]

I always am bummed on how dim my back up lights are. Do these Ridgid things really lite it up back there? How did you get the mounts to sit so flush? It's like they are stock! Really nice presentation!

 

[J Mack]

I always am bummed on how dim my back up lights are. Do these Ridgid things really lite it up back there? How did you get the mounts to sit so flush? It's like they are stock! Really nice presentation!

I think a single birthday candle is brighter than the factory backup lights, yes these lights are very bright and will illuminate further and wider than the OE front headlights.

As for mounting it takes a bit of effort to get them in the stock location but it’s doable.



I used the Ridgid D2 - Wide – Pair SKU: 51211 and a set of mounting plates D-Series Angled Flush Mount (Left / Right) SKU: 49010.

 

[Delancy]

I'm probably the only one dumb enough to make these mistakes, but just in case.....

First, I learned that the axle tab holes should align plumb with the holes the in arms, regardless if the arm is level to the world (or at a ninety degree angle to the links that connect the arms to axle).

I'd planned a 90 degree arm to link orientation, but the 21" arms didn't work and had no choice on where to mount the actual bar, so they're at 125-135 degrees.

That wasn't that big of a deal, but I didn't take into consideration that the link has to be plumb, had little room to work with on the axle housing, so the first axle tab had one hole ~2" aft the axle tube.

Realized how ignorant when I wanted to increase the bar's rate and move the link closer to the bar..... and wound up having to cut the first tab off and weld new (that I bought from Currie).

Second error was ordering the links cut as if 90 degrees was going to work. They were too short, so ordered longer than needed and had a heck of a time finding an locals with a LH die to cut new threads on the odd OD link.

Personally didn't care for wheeling without any sway, so never furthered a disconnect, but (to plant a bug in much more capable craftsmans' ears) thought it'd be cool to use a locking hub on one end, eliminating cotter pins, or to copy one of the Jeep innovations and use a dual bar (one hollow for wheeling, solid in the center of) dual arm set up, where a single pin fixes both arms of one side together.

(Will hunt pic, since worth a thousand words)

 

[J Mack]

I'm probably the only one dumb enough to make these mistakes, but just in case.....

Thanks for the reminders, always good to talk about basics design principles when moving away from the OE equipment.

Personally didn't care for wheeling without any sway, so never furthered a disconnect, but (to plant a bug in much more capable craftsmans' ears) thought it'd be cool to use a locking hub on one end, eliminating cotter pins, or to copy one of the Jeep innovations and use a dual bar (one hollow for wheeling, solid in the center of) dual arm set up, where a single pin fixes both arms of one side together.

(Will hunt pic, since worth a thousand words)

I was thinking about using a front hub as a quick disconnect along with some other super whammy stuff but at the end of the day it’s a lifted pig with a roof rack so the factory bar was inadequate and like you I prefer to keep the sway bar attached at all times so I just settled for this down and dirty solution to my issues.

 

[xtiaan2000]

Wow! Thanks for the beta on the back up lights.

 

[Racer65]

The short answer is yes….

The long answer is I don’t really know, I tried to hook up my first delay module to the Toyota motor when I changed my dash and blew it up. The problem is the way that Toyota shorts the motor to find park is different than the way most US made cars do it so this delay module wouldn’t work.

To me it seemed to make more sense to change out the 40 year old motor to something new and readily available VS go to the junkyard and get a different old motor or buy some expensive delay module to work with the 40 year old Toyota wiper motor.

I found the website on the internets superhighway using my searching skillz!

Do you have any photos of the new wiper motor and delay module in the installed position? What did you have to do to the electrical connector?

 

[J Mack]

Sorry no pictures of the wiper motor installed yet. I'm still in the process of painting so these parts are getting mocked up then removed until after paint. Stay tuned and I'll grab some pictures of the motor in place when I get to that part for you.

 

[Racer65]

Sorry no pictures of the wiper motor installed yet. I'm still in the process of painting so these parts are getting mocked up then removed until after paint. Stay tuned and I'll grab some pictures of the motor in place when I get to that part for you.

Does it look like the electrical connector will plug right in?

 

[J Mack]

Does it look like the electrical connector will plug right in?

You’ll have three options with the connector. You can use spade connectors to hook to the motor plug or buy the mating part that is available( I have pert numbers that I can dig up) you can use the motor plug from the OE motor and solder it to the new motor or as I’m going to do use a new Delphi connector on both sides.

But to answer your question no the new motor will not plug into the factory harness.