Old 8274 rebuild (1 Viewer)

[shipmag]

Well with the help of other threads on mud i dug into rebuilding the 8274 i just bought from a fellow mud member. Got the bottom half disassembled including getting the brake assembly off.

I started in to the top half today only to find a rusted mess. I tried getting one of the nuts loose on the solenoid and the bolt broke right at the bottom nut.

So where can i get a replacement solenoid without major modifications for the new upgrade versions?

 

[shipmag]

This is getting a lot of response. Has any one tried the TPI4X4 replacement solenoid. I think its the Albright solenoid. Will the old control cover with the plug in the center fit using this solenoid?

 

[1911]

Has any one tried the TPI4X4 replacement solenoid. I think its the Albright solenoid.

I used the contactor sold as a Superwinch contactor by Summit Racing www.summitracing.com I posted the whole procedure in a thread on this very sub-forum: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/wiring-an-8274-albright.485518/

Will the old control cover with the plug in the center fit using this solenoid?

It depends on where you mount the contactor. I put mine more-or-less in the middle of the backing plate, and my original 1978 cover would not fit because the electrical socket for the controller plug was too deep in side the cover. But a late-model 8274-50 control cover (that I happened to have in my shop) fit just fine since the socket is much more shallow.

 

[onlyonedr]

I also posted in that same thread a while back. Changing out to the contactor was not that difficult. As mentioned in that other thread (and I posted a picture) I put my sideways to allow more room for cables and the center plug. I am installing a rear winch and doing another one for that as well in the same manner.

 

[shipmag]

I havent worked on this winch in a long time waiting for Nix Welding in Poseyville Indiana to weld the drain plugs in, make a shat so I dont have to peen the housing to keep the shaft in and powder coat. Really disappointed in the powder coating. Poor quality but its a rural area and no competition.

I want to install a fuse in the positive line going from the battery to the new Alright Solenoid on the winch. What do I need to buy? I would like to mount the fuse to the fender and run a 2AWG wire from the battery to one side of the fuse and a wire then from the fuse to the Alright Solenoid.

I will post mor pics of the rebuild in a few days.

The E clip idea on the upper 3/8 shaft worked well to keep from peening the housing. But I do need to take the spacer back out and take agout .030 inches or so off it so it doesnt bind the spacer causing the shaft to rotate.

 

[shipmag]

Here are some pics of the e clip installed on the shaft.

 

[onlyonedr]

Stock those winches can pull upwards of 440A, so size your fuse accordingly. Look up ANL type fuses, buy a holder and a 500A fuse and you should be good to go.

 

[shipmag]

Thanks for the fuse size. I am trying to get the 2 gauge cabels made up. I need a source for the termininal stud boots to go over the stud to protect the wires from shorting out. NAPA nor Federated have them open to suggestion.

I did remove the 3/8 shaft and filed .020 off the spacer on the side that was wearing against the gear. Works fine. The spacer now measures .314 inches wide. Works like a glove. This way I don't have to peen the housing over every time I forget something and have to take the shaft back out.

 

[onlyonedr]

Search "Warn Terminal Boot" on Amazon.com and you will find them no problem.

 

[shipmag]

Got the boots from summit racing for $1.97.

Got the 2 AWG custom length cables made up from Genuinedealz.com they make them up by the foot but smaller lengths all I had to do was send an email to them after i placed the order giving them the exact lengths under 1 foot. The ends are 5/16 hole which is the size of the studs on the Albright solenoid and the motor. They added colored heat shrink insulation over the connector ends the colors matching the schematic i used.

I am going to shrink and laminate the schematic and tape it to the solenoid so i have it for future reference.

In order to get the 14 gauge wires to work without interfering with the connector plug on the plastic cover I had to use right angle quick connectors that I was able to find at ORielys. I will post pictures of the wiring next week when i get the 2 gauge cables in and the rubber boots.

I ordered the T pull handle from summit wanted a round one like the original but couldnt find it at the local hardware stores nor McMaster Carr.

I need some help where to put the zerk fitting for the end of the spool. I remember reading about it but cant find it. If someone knows where the link is please post it.

 

[onlyonedr]

I need some help where to put the zerk fitting for the end of the spool. I remember reading about it but cant find it. If someone knows where the link is please post it.

I do not know where the post is either, but all you need to do is take a small drill and bore the cover screw holes deeper, then drill in from the insides of the end cap bore to intersect with the drilled holes from the screws. Then drill/tap the existing holes for the zerk fittings and drill your plastic bushing to match. Finish with using a little RTV to stick that bushing in place so when you pump grease it will flow right through the holes and into the gap between the drum and bushing.

 

[shipmag]

That helps thanks. All I need now is the end cap from summit thats back logged.

 

[onlyonedr]

Found it, scroll down the page here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-warn-8274-rebuild-part-1.197470/

 

[shipmag]

Here is a pick of using the 8 inch three jaw puller to get the discs off the shaft. The key to getting the disc iff is not mushroom it to begin with. Put the puller on tighten it down and smack the puller bolt with a hammer tighten then smack with hammer then tighten bolt. Its slow but it does work eventually. This is a pic of my sons winch I am helping him rebuild.

On another note my end plate on my winch does not have the threaded holes for the end cap to bolt to. Trying to figure if I can still add the zerk fitting. My winch is older than the one I bought for my sons winch back in 1975.

I installed an albright solenoid with using the original plug for the switch. Problem is the female part if the plug in the cover keeps the cover from being able to fit once the 2 AWG cables are installed. Im open to suggestions at this point on how to make this mod work. Thought about cutting the end of the plug housing off even with the wire terminals that will buy me a 1/4 inch not sure if it wont run the risk of arching against the 2 gauge wire on the solenoid. I will try to take some pics of the problem.

 

[shipmag]

Forgot the pic of the puller

 

[shipmag]

I mentioned i did not have enough room for the stock control cover and stock female plug for the control switch on the control box. I am thinking of cutting off about 1/4 inch off the bottom of the plug to try and make room I am open to suggestions how others made the stock cover fit with the albright solenoid

 

[onlyonedr]

I changed to a mil-spec screw-on connector since the depth is very shallow if mounted on the outside of the box. Not a cheap solution but I never have to worry about the connector working loose when I winch.

The connector is a circular MIL-spec Amphenol connector.

Male Connector for Remote:

Mouser Part #: 654-MS3106E18-4P
Manufacturer Part #: MS3106E18-4P
Description: Circular MIL Spec Connector 4P #16 PIN CONTACTS

Female Connector for box:

Mouser #: 654-MS3102E18-4S
Mfr. #: MS3102E18-4S
Desc.: Circular MIL Spec Connector4P #16 SKT CONTACTS

Screw Cover:

Mouser #: 654-APHMS25043-18DA
Mfr. #: MS2504318DA
Desc.: Circular MIL Spec Tools, Hardware & Accessories

 

[shipmag]

I cut 1/4" off the new female connector that bolts to the plastic cover over the Albright Solenoid. This left the sleeves the wires connect to on the connector just below where the connector was cut. I screwed the wires to the male connector on the female connector bolted to the cover. Then i put heat shrink about an inch long on each wire. I reused the little black plastic sleeve that came with the connector that covers the screws and the connector of the plug. I put on one of the terminal boots i got from summit racing that is used to cover the 2 gauge wire connections. The boot narrows the last 1/8 " so i cut that off so it would fit over the female plug bolted to the cover. Test the fit and the cover now fits over with plenty of wire protection at the plug from the heat shrink, reusing the 1/2 inch diameter plastic sleeve that comes with the connector and the terminal boot. Sorry i didnt get a pic before i put the boot on it wasnt an easy fit and i didnt want to take the boot off to shoot a pic. With the connector bolted to the cover its not easy to get the boot on. Hopefully the description helps the next guy. Here is a pic of the boot over the plug.

 

[shipmag]

Now the cover still has the vintage look even though the solenoid is an albright. I got all the cables from Genuinedeal.com the online order sucks because three of the cables needed are less than 12 inches and online 12 inches is the min. I called them and asked what to do. They told me send them an email right away with the right length. Well the email didnt work. I would call them and order it over the phone and express to them you need the exact length. I got the 12 inchers to work but Im not happy how it turned out as the pic shows and it wasnt worth 27 dollars for new cables. ATTACH=full]1016643[/ATTACH]

 

[1911]

Now the cover still has the vintage look even though the solenoid is an albright. I got all the cables from Genuinedeal.com the online order sucks because three of the cables needed are less than 12 inches and online 12 inches is the min. I called them and asked what to do. They told me send them an email right away with the right length. Well the email didnt work. I would call them and order it over the phone and express to them you need the exact length. I got the 12 inchers to work but Im not happy how it turned out as the pic shows and it wasnt worth 27 dollars for new cables. ATTACH=full]1016643[/ATTACH]

Any NAPA parts store will make you cables of any length, any gauge, any terminal ends, just for future reference.