The Cursed Build (1 Viewer)

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Well the carb works now. Took it to someone and it was just the throttle cable screw was messed up. I thinking I'm going to keep it in for now as I'm going to do a 3rz swap on my old truck and turn it into a wheeler once I have the funds and I'll just take that 2re and put it in this one, harness computer and everything else I'll need. I'll be doing a timing chain on this one. I mentioned earlier I removed a lot of vacuum lines. I removed the canister up front near the rad, capped off that line. left the back one there for the gas, I also removed any other uneeded lines and soon I'll be blocking off the EGR. I'll post up some pics sooon.
 
So I need some advice. I'm about to pull out my bench seat and the vinyl in the floor to do a good cleaning if the cab. When I put the vinyl back in and the shifter boot would hot glue work for holding it down as a long term? Or does someone have a better idea? The shifter boot is already coming up. This truck is being my mild restoration as money becomes available so nothing to expensive yet. That'll come later on next year during the summer months.
 
If you glue that vinyl mat down, I think some day you will be sorry. What about something like double-stick tape?
 
Would it hold though? I was also thinking about rubber cement. It comes off of metal easily and if I ever did replace the vinyl its be with carpet. My issue is just it's coming up on the sides and doesn't even go behind the seat
 
Okay so I need some help. Pappy and KLF this is more die. Your alley, I'll have to do my brakes in the summer time. The aftermarket is about $200 for front rotors pads rear drums and shoes. I also messaged Beno and Sam. Same was 298 with no rear drums as I forgot to ask and no front pads. Beno was a little over 500 with front pads and rear Drums. I've done reading about Toyota brakes vs aftermarket but I'd like some more input. Which would be best to go with? I plan on keeping this truck for a number of years as its going to be a nice 84. Its my DD and hunting rig as well.
 
Stay factory. If something happens when we heeling etc the easier replacement parts are.
 
Do the drums need to be replaced? If not, just have them turned. Same for the rotors. For replacement I would consider aftermarket for the drums, but I would go OEM for the rotors. Note that I have almost 400K on my truck, and I'm still running the original drums.

I usually go aftermarket for pads and shoes, but recently I priced OEM pads and was a bit shocked that they weren't priced on the gold standard. I think a set was about $60, but I'm not sure if that was for all four, or a pair.
 
The pads were actually reasonable. Just the drums were over 200 for 2. I haven't pulled them off yet. I have to to adjust the E-brake in a couple weeks when I have time. Then I'll check them. And I was going to go rotors for sure as the last once I bought had surface rust on them after a month.
 
I'm showing rotors are $63 each from Toyota (discount). Rotors from Autozone are $27. I will never install aftermarket rotors again.
 
Confession time: None of my brake parts are OEM. Front rotors are FJ60 spec, calipers are V6 4Runner, all from NAPA. I have rear discs, they are Chevy Truck rotors that I bought from Sky when I bought his brackets, it was cheaper to buy and ship rotors from him than have them custom machined locally. The Monte Carlo calipers are from NAPA, they are $22 each loaded with pads so I just replace them about every 3 years.

OEM parts are better, no question.
 
OEM are better. I love going Toyota but I just can't reason spending 255 for Drums. At that point if they're bad why not just machine them or its about 100 for a set from Napa.
 
Well. I finally figured out spring wise. I'm looking at alcans. Not cheap but the only ones I can find that are stock height and don't require a plate being welded to the perch. Looking at 1k for all 4. 2 fronts and 2 rears.
 
Okay mud I need some help. Anyone seen lights like these/know how to put them back in place? They're warns. But I can't find a serial number

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Okay guys, I need some slep. I'm looking at going with 33 km2's as my next set of tires. Do I keep stock push N' pull since it's my DD/hunting rig/mild off roader or do I do a cross over steering? The truck will be kept stock and I know I can fit 33's under it no problem. I have 31's with plenty of room on the old springs. If I do cross over could I use Marlin Crwlers Hy-steer? or since there's no lift will it not work? I know Marlin says 4" of lift is needed. Or is there another option out there for this besides any of Trail gears stuff? Price doesn't scare me, to much. I can just get the Marlin kit never installed from a guy I know.
 
  • I have always needed at least 3" lift to clear the 33" tires I ran. They will rub.
  • 3" of lift will cause bump-steer with the push-pull steering.
  • 3" of lift is required for cross-over steering. It won't work with stock height suspension.
  • I have Marlin cross-over steering on my 4Runner, no problem. Love it. Just be aware that the aftermarket rod ends they sell are junk. You will be visiting the dealer for real FZJ80 ends in the near future.
 
I'll probably just stick with 31's then. I also won't have to deal with gears as soon with them also.
 
Anyone have a solid axle hub body they don't need? I didn't notice what the PO did until now as I was trying to rebuild them.

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Anyone have a solid axle hub body they don't need? I didn't notice what the PO did until now as I was trying to rebuild them.

Looks like he didn't know about the cone washers.
 
Exactly what I was thinking. Just took a hammer to it. Now I have to find either a new hub assembly or just the hub body.
 
So I just remembered I have some ifs hubs. Couldn't I just swap the innards of the solid axle hub into the its hub and bolt it right up? I've been searching but I can't find a for sure answer.
 

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