Builds What's a Parts Guy to Do?? (5 Viewers)
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- Thread starter
- #342
New crankshaft pulley went on tonight. 144ft/lbs for the nut. 145 was good enough for me.
Looks very nice and new.
And got that damn oil pan on.
Looks very nice and new.
And got that damn oil pan on.
That's pronography right there
- Thread starter
- #344
And after a visit with St. Barnadus, head gasket and head decided to join the party.
Correct HG Part Number for my iteration:
On the block as requested. Notice the overhang of the HG goes to the back meaning you really can only install it one way. It is very important, of course, to make sure the #4 rocker arm support is open since this is the oiling passage.
Notice the way the HG lays on the block and around the cylinders.
And the head on safely where it properly belongs in its mechanistic and simple world.
Correct HG Part Number for my iteration:
On the block as requested. Notice the overhang of the HG goes to the back meaning you really can only install it one way. It is very important, of course, to make sure the #4 rocker arm support is open since this is the oiling passage.
Notice the way the HG lays on the block and around the cylinders.
And the head on safely where it properly belongs in its mechanistic and simple world.
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- Thread starter
- #345
For some reason, I was short 3 head bolts. As such, I just installed the other twelve finger tight. 90910-02050 is the correct head bolt part number from 1/1975 forward. I have found no other references for the 2F of any iteration.
I'm going to pick up the other 3 on Friday along with plugs and wires: plugs will be OEM correctly gapped Denso's (90919-01065) and the wires will be the correctly date stamped (2014) OEM Yazaki wire set (90919-21325).
Each head bolt got a bit of 20w50 on the threads and on the bolt head flange per the FSM instructions.
I'm going to pick up the other 3 on Friday along with plugs and wires: plugs will be OEM correctly gapped Denso's (90919-01065) and the wires will be the correctly date stamped (2014) OEM Yazaki wire set (90919-21325).
Each head bolt got a bit of 20w50 on the threads and on the bolt head flange per the FSM instructions.
Should of scuff sanded and spray over repainted that oil pan.
The factory paint sucks.
Carry on young padewan.
The factory paint sucks.
Carry on young padewan.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,207
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
I spy a PS bracket laying on the floor.
There are 2 ways to install that:
1. install bracket to block, install pump to bracket, bolt manifolds to head.
2. bolt manifold to head, bolt PS pump into bracket, install loaded bracket to engine block.
There is one way it won't go together: install bracket, install manifolds, install pump.
Hope this saves you a moment of frustration.
Carry on....
There are 2 ways to install that:
1. install bracket to block, install pump to bracket, bolt manifolds to head.
2. bolt manifold to head, bolt PS pump into bracket, install loaded bracket to engine block.
There is one way it won't go together: install bracket, install manifolds, install pump.
Hope this saves you a moment of frustration.
Carry on....
Hey Onur,
Does part # 90919-01065 just translate to a standard Denso W14EXR-U ?
I would have bet that you would have gone with an ultra cool early FJ60 (Hand Crank Provisioned) harmonic balancer bolt
Does part # 90919-01065 just translate to a standard Denso W14EXR-U ?
I would have bet that you would have gone with an ultra cool early FJ60 (Hand Crank Provisioned) harmonic balancer bolt
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,207
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
The claw nut disappeared in 7/80, so theoretically never made it onto FJ60. What's weird is the hole for the starter crank is in the lower valence on all FJ60, but the radiator is in the way, and there is no claw nut. My personal theory (never looked it up) 
is that some non-US trucks without AC prep have a smaller radiator, allowing the crank handle to get through the hole. But still no claw nut...
is that some non-US trucks without AC prep have a smaller radiator, allowing the crank handle to get through the hole. But still no claw nut...
- Thread starter
- #350
- Thread starter
- #351
Indeed Jim. It's definitely a pinch with the bracket and manifold.
#2 will be my preferred method to install (hopefully today!!)
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- Thread starter
- #352
That's right Peter. You can get the Denso branded part based on the above.
That said, the Toyota ones are stupid cheap. Like cheaper than a Starbucks coffee cheap.
- Thread starter
- #353
A view that I can keep coming home to always.....
Pushrods and their respective ends. Those will be installed today along with the head bolts, spark plugs, fuel pump, PS pump, oil filter housing and oil cooler.
Pushrods and their respective ends. Those will be installed today along with the head bolts, spark plugs, fuel pump, PS pump, oil filter housing and oil cooler.
Sounds like experience talking there.
Hey beno, do the stickers on the rear side windows ever get in the way of vision? One of the things I REALLY like about my FJ60 is the fact that the A,B and C pillars are very slim making seeing all around you very easy. When I drive other more modern vehicles I always have to check my corners twice, my wife's A pillar on her Chrysler Town & Country has obscured a car coming down the road on my right quit a few times and caused some panic braking. Forget backing it up, the C pillars could obscure a building with that minivan.A view that I can keep coming home to always.....
View attachment 998716
Pushrods and their respective ends. Those will be installed today along with the head bolts, spark plugs, fuel pump, PS pump, oil filter housing and oil cooler.
View attachment 998717
View attachment 998718
View attachment 998719
norsk
SILVER Star
LOVE the pics, even though I won't do a 2F again, it is nice to see someone keeping it alive. Also great to see the "certificates" of effort too - ie bruised fingers
dougbert
dougbert
- Thread starter
- #357
I agree sir. I won't be a doing an engine of this ilk personally again.
Next time round: 1HZ
RE: the hand crank... was it there to hand-start the motor, or just an easy way to spin the motor for valve adjustments?
- Thread starter
- #359
Got a bit more done last night....
Head bolts in and torqued. FSM calls for 97ft/lbs... I just rounded up a bit to 100 and called it good.
Then the pushrods went in. Used some moly lube on both ends and wiped down the shafts with some 20w50 on a rag.
And we got the new oil dipstick tube in. I like the part number label on it and just left it there. I put a bit of red locktite on the inserted portion to keep it in place since it is pressed in.
Head bolts in and torqued. FSM calls for 97ft/lbs... I just rounded up a bit to 100 and called it good.
Then the pushrods went in. Used some moly lube on both ends and wiped down the shafts with some 20w50 on a rag.
And we got the new oil dipstick tube in. I like the part number label on it and just left it there. I put a bit of red locktite on the inserted portion to keep it in place since it is pressed in.
- Thread starter
- #360
Next, got the water pump attached. Gasket is separate. Gasket was placed onto the pump with a bit of FIPG and then a bit of FIPG put on the block side--not much though. New bolts were also used for the block to water pump connection.
Aftermarket Aisin water pumps will have the TEQ ground off of the housing. That is an anathema to me and NOT acceptable.
Gasket and pump:
New bolts w/wave washers:
Aftermarket Aisin water pumps will have the TEQ ground off of the housing. That is an anathema to me and NOT acceptable.
Gasket and pump:
New bolts w/wave washers:
