Welding Table (1 Viewer)

[GLTHFJ60]

You're not being a killjoy! If it were decided, then I'd have posted up pictures of some slots cut in my table

Thanks for the thoughts an opinions. This is the exact reason I wanted to put a thread up.

 

[D'Animal]

That looks like my welding/fixing stuff/piling things on table.

I put mine on casters so I can wheel it outside when I want too.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That looks like my welding/fixing stuff/piling things on table.

I put mine on casters so I can wheel it outside when I want too.

That's pretty much what it's turning into. I've already used it for a couple of little projects and I haven't done any more to it than in the first post. I did find out that my garage floor isn't level though

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Make some floor leveling feet out of some 3/4"-1" (as small as your table is you could get away with 5/8") bolts or allthread and nuts. Weld one nut (centered) inside the leg tube and then weld a piece of plate to the bolt head (or welded nut, if using all thread). You can then run the feet up or down to level/stabilize your table.

J

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That is exactly what my plan is I'm going to weld some captured nuts in the foot plates of the table for leveling legs.

 

[D'Animal]

My first welding table now holds my crappy Optimas.

My second welding table is on wheels so I can move it around.

My third welding table has an axle.

My wife is convinced I can pile 59lbs of crap on top of a road cone. Lol

 

[mudbludger]

Here is what i did to move table around, its 4 cheap jockey wheels with the rubber wheels replaced with steel ones. They are strong enough to lift the table even when fully loaded with crud and rolls easily due to the hard wheels, also turned out to be a big help when making fine leveling adjustments if i move the table to another position, I can just jack up one corner or two and slide a few shims under.

Each side has a power board attached and are all powered at the same time from one central board so I never have to go far to plug in a grinder, its a bit ghetto and will be replaced with proper switched gpo's but it works fine for now.

I'm loving the idea of putting a ton of holes in the 1/2" plate and making up some of those stronghand clamps, I already have it set up with 200 x 200 grid squares.

Future plans are to fit a few drawers to store grinders, measuring and marking stuff, clamps etc.

 

[cruiserpilot]

So what would be the optimum table top thickness for fabricating and keeping its flatness integrity. I want to make a couple of bumpers
and other stuff, but not sure thickness to ensure my project stays flat.

 

[D'Animal]

My top is 1/4" thick

 

[firestopper]

So what would be the optimum table top thickness for fabricating and keeping its flatness integrity. I want to make a couple of bumpers
and other stuff, but not sure thickness to ensure my project stays flat.

It really depends on the type of work and pounding you might have to do on the table. I would prefer 1/2" minimum as I have experienced issues

with 3/8" from clamping and such. The key really is to start out with a flat surface and mind your welding when building your table to prevent

warping. You really don't need to weld the hell out of it (top) to secure it to table frame.

Peace

 

[Weber Sarge]

Honestly , I would never go less than 1/2" thick - mine is 1" but for being only 2.5x5 feet it also weighs 1,000lbs ....ugh .
One thing - if you want to attach a top and not worry about warping , just bolt it on . Use flat head allen bolts , they come in 82* & 90* head angles so they can be easily countersunk . On tables I've built for others we just drilled the initial tapping diameter holes (usually 3/8" bolts) , pull the top off and drill the clearance diameter and then use a countersink to fit the bolts . I just tap and thread the heavy steel used to support the top - usually 2x2x1/4" wall structural iron tube . This solves any issues with warping the top when welding it to the base , not easy unless you spend a lot of time waiting for it to cool and it always moves . The real trick is clean fitup of the frame and keeping it dead flat when welding it - take your time and your table will turn out much better .
Sarge

 

[GLTHFJ60]

On another note, my buddy found these welding table caster wheels that are super slick.

http://www.zoro.com/i/G8495602/?utm...hopping_Feed&gclid=CNC-rdXbpcMCFcnm7Aodp3AAlg

 

[cruiserpilot]

Do these castors have brakes? I'm trying to figure out how they work.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

No. The casters thread into feet on the welding table. The casters appear to rotate around the threaded rod. When you're done moving the table, crank on that red knob, which will drive the feet down to the ground, so that the table rests on the feet, not the casters.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Okay, now I see. I was on that track, thanks. Nice castors,

 

[Weber Sarge]

Here's a shot of my table -

It was not a lot of fun getting it in the basement , but way easier than the lathe anyway ...
Wish it was a bit bigger , but honestly need a plain "work table" nearby instead , just don't have the room right now .
Sarge

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I like your vice, I have one that's very similar, although mine is likely much cheaper than yours

What's up with those clamps holding the bar? Do they fit into the holes of the work surface?

 

[Weber Sarge]

Those clamps are the elusive oem storage spring clips for the factory starting handle - came from a New Zealand market '77 FJ40 RHD . I'm working on prototyping those parts now to offer reproductions to sell . Check out the link in my signature , have the front bumper guides already done but they are out of stock at the moment , will have more done this weekend .
Sarge

 

[mudbludger]

I have been keeping an eye on this thread over at pirate, interested to see what he comes up with for the clamps

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/shop-tools/1972282-custom-fixture-jig-table-build-log.html

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Long-overdue update. Have spent the past few years using the welding table and doing research for my next round of improvements. I moved to a 3/8" table surface which has been a huge improvement.

It's starting to look like I have a condition called FSD (flat surface disease), meaning that whenever there's a flat surface in the garage I fill it with junk. As such, most of the time the welding table looks like this (see it between the garage doors):

Sometimes it gets cleaned and I build things like target stands:

Crossmembers/skid plates:

Transfer cases/transmissions:

Other tools:

Sliders:

However, in doing a small garage expansion project, I decided it was time to address some issues I've identified with the welding table. To show what it looks like, I'll show you the original rendering which accurately represents the table as it was built:

Problems:

1. No actual shelf below = space below table became crap catcher for everything known to man
2. Not mobile.
3. Not heavy enough. The crossmember project above required some leverage and I actually lifted the table top with a large crescent wrench (by accident)
4. Top not attached to the frame
5. No place to store/mount tools (vice, grinders, bench grinder, clamps, etc.)