cult45's 45 recovery and remobilisation (3 Viewers)

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The emphasis on the stopping eh sneaky? Just so you know I added a brake booster. That I got. For $50. Second hand. :D
 
hahaha that's the shot son, the first step is admitting you have a problem. its not me its every one else that is crazy I don't see anything wrong with spending a lot of money on and a lot of time on a weather worn old beauty.
Haha yep mate, step 1: admission.
 
I went round to the truck today and cleaned up ol Deano's yard and cleaned out the 45 tray, putting all my tools back where they belong. I also pressure washed the two painted rims (grey over white over stock grey) (who the hell runs white rims??) and took some of the paint off. Luckily it was badly primed and started to flake off. Then I gave the cab a once over. Until I noticed the also badly adhered paint starting to come off. Not flaking off, more like disintegrating. The stock colour started to shine through, which is a very dark grey. Once I get these brakes adjusted up and the truck back to where I'm living then I reckon I'll take him back to he dark grey. The only trouble I reckon I'll run into is if there's any filler under that showroom finish :D
 
Was thinking too sneaky, I'm gonna take a run up to the Gap once she's registered and gonna catch up with Peter (84troopy). You should join. You can take the ol girl for a burn.
 
Was thinking too sneaky, I'm gonna take a run up to the Gap once she's registered and gonna catch up with Peter (84troopy). You should join. You can take the ol girl for a burn.

Come and say g'day anytime, but not early January unless really wanna take the old girl for a spin, we'll be up at rainbow beach! I can't wait to spend a week on the beach with the troopy. I'll be doing some more practice runs up to bribie before Xmas, hopefully involving tents, rods and beers.
 
The emphasis on the stopping eh sneaky?

Thought you'd pick up on that !

Yeah, I'm all about the efficiency of the parts that connect you to the road. Guess I've been cut off by P-Platers while I'm driving old cars that often, I like to know I can pull up when necessary.

Though the front of a 40/45 close to the back bumper is an intimidating sight, usually gives them the message!

I'd love to have drive of the old girl, that's a very generous offer and one I won't knock back. Cheers.
 
No sweat mate. Before you do I'd better get these brakes sorted. Went out to the old girl today to do just that. I bled them twice, which resulted in a better and better pedal, but it still requires two pumps to get something happening. It also pumps fluid back into the reservoir and the brake pedal stays on just enough to keep the tail lights on.

Is it just a case of more bleeding? Coolerman suggests bleeding the brakes when the truck is level. Is that true?
 
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No love for brake bleeding tips? :D
 
Thanks 47, that's the guide I used to install the brakes. I'll reread it and see if I missed anything.
 
not very elaborate but pretty basic stuff:
1.) remove the plug and bleed the brakes.
2.) when most of it has come out, push the brake pedal right to the floor and hold it there until it has stopped dripping.
3.) with the brake pedal still on the floor put the plug back in.

if all has gone well there should be no fluid left in the lines and you will have no air in the lines.

you may just need more than one person to do it properly.
good luck!:)
note: you may need a more elaborate description...
 
Well today I had another crack at the brakes. I'm nearly there but am hoping someone actually chimes in. As per Coolerman I jacked the truck level and adjusted the brakes first, then bled. The rears were loosey-goosey! I could turn em with one finger! So I adjusted em up well tight and then bled again. A little air came out but other than all signs pointed to things being swimmingly. So I took it for a test drive. It now takes three pumps from so-so-but-I'd-hate-to-brake-in-a-hurry to sorry-am-I-now-in-an-AMG6.3L?? So things are definitely improving, but other than bleeding them again. And then again. And quite possibly again until the national budget gets back into surplus, I'm out of ideas. On a potentially related note, would a faulty booster have anything to do with this?

I also changed the window winder regulators. But I really need to change out the felts to make them work properly. Lubed the channels with graphite powder.

I also chased up why my indicators now don't work. But I didn't chase far as I am a wiring moron.

Deano got bored and decided to add a grab handle above the pax door. There's two screws there that hold something in, and the oh-sh!t bar from above the glovebox was within about 5mm of fitting, so he got medieval on my spare with the 4lb and had him in using spare (longer) window winder regulator screws.

Took him for a longer drive today, around three blocks instead of one. It feels a bit gutless, but perhaps that will change after I add a muffler (straight through at the moment). The doors rattle like ****, and he tranny whines (though it sounds fine, I think it's just got that good 1960's whine :D), and it's more agricultural than anything I've ever driven, but jeez it's a trip! Top is a big jump from second, which is a bit odd, but I guess you don't really wanna grab top unless you're doing 40mph+

Anyway, time to do some more brake research, see if I can sort this pedal out.
 
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I'll be watching this thread closely because the cruza that I am about to (hopefully) buy has had the brakes (and clutch) bleed too.
if it feels gutless you could run these peoples stuff through the engine. (you've probably heard of it) http://www.costeffective.com.au/
apparently it cleans out 1-2-3 litres and 40+ years of soot and carbon build up + other nasties and for some reason this makes it go better. dunno why...:hmm:
 
Cult old mate have you tried the brakes with out the booster ? Brake bleeding shouldn't give that much drama. process of elimination is a good method when on a shoestring budget, like clamping front flex line and bleeding back first or pulling brake drum and checking if new seals are leaking. Have seen leaks between stanless sleeves and old housings aswell

A bit gutless you say? Your talking about a f motor, 3 speed tranmission that has high first and second gear third direct and possible high diff ratio aswell if it has 3.7s.
What andrews520 said is good and dont cost anything if your careful with the gaskets. You also get to see if theres any bent pushrods
Not real sure on using any of that wonder juice on these old motors, lifting the carbon off might do more harm then good.
I had a quick read as for "roothy" saying a capfull in a 25yo 2 stroke outboard "ran smoother and rattled less almost straight away" hmmmm :hmm: Say anything for quid i guess
 
Thanks boys, I knew you'd come to the rescue. cat I haven't removed the booster as of yet as it the brake line runs from the master through the booster, meaning a loss of fluid and a rebleed. So that'll be my last resort.

If the new cylinders were leaking, wouldn't I see brake fluid on my tyres? I suppose I could check that next. Would you need to clamp a line?

As for the valve clearances thank you very much @andrews520 for the link, it'll sure be handy when the time comes. But right now I'm a little hesitant. It runs, it drives and it's gotta get to the Sunny Coast on the 3rd January for a film. After that I'll have a go (quietly sh!tting myself!). I just wondered if others had the same first impression of an F.

And no offence young 47, I'm a bit wary of new wonder juice on my dirty ole F. Maybe on the Victa :D
 
So yep, I'll back the cylinders off, belt off them drums and check for leaks.

Thanks again lads for chiming in. You're good eggs the lot of ya :beer:
 

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